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Old 05-29-2012, 10:38 PM   #85
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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See Level Tank sensor installed tonite, wired in and strapped the wire to the frame with little frame wire fasteners. Also installed the Camco Tornados-- strapped the hose for them to the frame too. One Tornado in the black and one in the grey tank.
Next, install the break away switch (how did I forget that when I was wiring the brakes!) and then finally cut the holes in the black and grey tanks for vents and toilet.....and then I think I am really ready to install the floor!
PS- I think I really like this 12v electrical stuff, cut, crimp, solder, shrink wrap, strap, label..there is a nice rythme to it and it looks nice when done
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:13 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by Sparky57
See Level Tank sensor installed tonite, wired in and strapped the wire to the frame with little frame wire fasteners. Also installed the Camco Tornados-- strapped the hose for them to the frame too. One Tornado in the black and one in the grey tank.
Next, install the break away switch (how did I forget that when I was wiring the brakes!) and then finally cut the holes in the black and grey tanks for vents and toilet.....and then I think I am really ready to install the floor!
PS- I think I really like this 12v electrical stuff, cut, crimp, solder, shrink wrap, strap, label..there is a nice rythme to it and it looks nice when done
Can you post some pictures? I am planning the electrical and I am thinking of going with the seelevel gauge. I would love some pics of the sensor wireing, and your 12v wireing technique pleae!
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:20 PM   #87
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1957 26' Overlander
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Electrics

Well, I am no wiring expert but I'll post some pics tomorrow. I like doing the electrical stuff, find it fun, easy and something you can pick away at.

All the 12v wire connections will be crimped to butt connectors, then soldered and then shrink wrapped. I use my wife's butane creme brule browning / cooking torch for a soldering iron- works awesome, heats up fast, easy to control...l love it!
I hate it when wiring fails so I tend to overdo it so I don't have to re-do it, and it is only an extra step or 2 really ....
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:23 PM   #88
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Half Floored

Well half the floor is in and so far so good. Also attached some pics of what $225 worth of chroming buys and a pic of the new wheel wells being insulated with reflictix- 2 layers, glued on then taped with aluminum foil tape.
My approach to the floor has been working so far-- 2 sheets, glued and screwed together with a 1/2" offset at the joint between top and bottom sheets- kinda like a tongue and groove fit. Have been able to bend the sheets over a 2x6 enough to slip the edges under the channel, then slip the 2x6 out and is snaps into place. Then glue the top side and repeat and then screw it together with 5/8 wood screws. Super solid under foot.
Floor still needs to be bolted to the frame, so that is next. Bought elevator bolts and the VTS self taping screws, as well as some nice big #10 stainless screws for the C channel.
Only complaint is that the floor is just 1/4" shy of the flush with the outside edge, so it feels like the bolts through the c channel will just catch the edge of the floor...if I was to do it again I'd make the floor pieces longer (next Airstream project I guess!)
Toilet in the background is just placed there for effect
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:42 PM   #89
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Looking great! I don't think that 1/4" gap will be a problem. As solid as your floor is now, I think you'll be amazed how solid it'll be with the bolts into the frame.

cheers,
steve
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:53 AM   #90
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Thanks Steve- I am hoping you are right...there's no going back now anyways
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:25 AM   #91
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wow that'S looking great love the rounded wheel tubs as opossed to the squarish ones, have you got anymore info on the tank levels and do you know if there are any you can run off mains supply as mine is for a concession stand and the only 12v i will have will be for the lighting, do you think you could run a sensor off the lighting circuit or just a transformer from a lighting circuit?, I am rubbish with electric but forewarned and all that!!
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:20 PM   #92
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These are SeeLevel sensors and run off 12v. Not sure if there are any that run off 110v, but if you have 12v available then why not use it?
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:34 PM   #93
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Just wanted to tell you again how much I love my new center light from your trailer! Thanks so much!

Your light made my latest blog post: 1959 Airstream Overlander, "Someday": Haphazard Progress
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:13 PM   #94
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That light fixture looks great! Glad it fit and found a new home. I just rediscovered your blog too- Trailer is looking enviable.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:26 PM   #95
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Fully floored, finally!

Framed in the door step with some metal and put a new lid on the step in prep for the rest of the floor...which is now installed as of Sunday night. Poured myself a large whiskey sour and went to bed. Pics later.
I read someones comment a long time ago that said simply 'the floor is epic'. So so true.
My floor approach worked well overall- I used bolts, washers and nylok nuts around the perimeter in the c-channel, then used those massive self-taping trailer deck bolts from VTS for the middle. Underlayed the floor with a nice thick bead of DAP Dynaflex 230, screwed and glued the 2 sheets of flooring together with PL400 and lots of screws. It isn't as stiff as I would want, it has screw holes through the top side which is a draw back, but overall it is in, it was relatively easy to slide under the c-channel, it fits and I can move on to the next item.

Next I will paint the floor with a top coat of something- probably latex porch and floor paint. It is expoxy now, but want something that looks nice when someone opens a door or hatch area and sees the floor...Any comments?
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:35 PM   #96
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Moving right along...

Ok- Long time since the last update-- Lots done but it really doesn't look that much different! Man this is a big project.

The floor is in and all screwed down around the perimeter. I have a new love for stainless screws, bolts, whatever....So #10 5/8" SS wood screws every 8" and then I used grade 8 bolts with 4 galvanized washers, 2 top, 2 underneath with lots of Trempro in the hole.

Filled the floor with automotive epoxy, sanded it and filled all the cracks.

Also got all the plumbing tested out- filled all the tanks and waited and listened for bad sounds....like crashing sounds....but only a couple small drips out of the Tornado flushers - so that was good... a couple of new washer required to fix it is all.

Put the lock back from the chrome shop and reassembled and installed. Managed to get the original lock re-keyed. Soaked the old wooden backplate in Sikkens Cetol 1 wood preservative after scraping the mould and gunk off it...and it all went back together smoothly.

Windows are also all done except for the rear one which is cleco'd in place...Reused the old glass and put in new seals for most windows. Had to repair a couple Hehr window cranks that were stripped...but apart from that they were all there, all complete, even the tiny little roller wheels and axles that slide the window up. Replace all the little hex nuts with VTS replica's and new screens too (what a bugger those are to install). Replaced all the screws and nuts with stainless. New seals, caulked the seal and window in place too with Dynaflex 230 aluminum caulk. Looks awesome.

Ordered belly pan metal....6061-T6 , 4 sheets of 4x12 .032. Comments? $550 delivered. ouch.

Got my new 3x rivet gun and bucked my first rivets with my 11 year old daughter holding the bucking bar. Not sure what went wrong, but I got a little crescent shaped scar around the rivet- what does that mean- too much power, did I hit the rivet too much, is an 11 year old girl not strong enough to hold the bar?

Also got the rear licence plate holder reassembled and installed and the backup camera tucked in neatly underneath it.

Next I am thinking or getting the door back together. Stip the zolatone and shine it up, insulate and get it re-screened and swinging properly. Did a test strip with Circa 1850 Heavy Body Stripper. That went ok...what do you do with the haze left over though? Oh and the old screen was brass. Ya, really, brass!

Then, start insulating....I have waffled on the insulation 5 times, right now I am planning Prodex taped to the exterior skin, then wire, then Roxsul safe and sound between the Prodex and interior skin. Idea is to provide a vapour barrier, some reflective insulation properties, and the sound proofing of the Roxsul --my wife worries about of the pink insulation's perceived health concerns. Anyway- that is the direction I am going (today ).

Also want to start polishing while the weather is nice....So I need a polisher and some polishing pads...anyone have a recipe for what pads, and all the required stuff-- I have the polish and the polisher, but how many pads, what type, etc? I have read about 25 ways to do this...Oh, and how the heck do you polish under the drip caps? Should I just take them off and put them back on later? And any advice about the mistakes I am going to make would be highly appreciated too....

This big hunk of aluminum is growing on me though so I think it is time to name her....Narrowed it down to one of 2-- either 'Starlight' or 'Maybe'. Starlight for the color, Maybe because that was my answer when they asked if I was going to buy an airstream.

Pics tomorrow- too late tonite!
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:24 PM   #97
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As for the crescent while riveting, I have heard them referred to as smiley faces. I turn my air down a lot, and do the riveting in half second to one second bursts, keeping it as straight as humanly possible. I still get smiley faces every once in awhile but it is much rarer.

For the polishing, what type are you using? I have had pretty good luck with the Jestco kit for Airstreams, a cheap 7" electronic wheel polisher (oversized angle grinder), and then I have the cyclo for final cuts. Most of my detail pieces were done with a smaller 4" wheel on the same device or on a cheap drill with high rpm, on pieces while removed from the trailer. For hard to reach spots on the trailer, I have a 2" diameter by 3" long hard sewn cotton buffing wheel and an air powered die grinder.

Just make sure to buy lots of rakes for the buffing wheels. I have worn down one from spikes to bumps on only an 18' trailer doin the first cut.

Anyway, looks like you are making some awesome progress. I like "Maybe", but mostly because it reminds me of Arrested Development.

More updates. And pictures or it didn't happen... :-D
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:38 PM   #98
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Pics....

Here are some pics. Got the original pressure water filler chromed up- just placed it in the hole for a glamour shot... Looks ridiculously shiny against the dull aluminum. Also, a picture of the licence plate tail light and camera, the Hehr window cranks with a repair to the knob using SS bolt and the new screens, and new LED tail lights....anyone know what kind of rivets those are? rear window prepped for install, a one of my 'smiley faced' rivets, and the original dealer decal...brass...maybe I should chrome that too ?

@Peter- thanks for the tips, I will try some more buck riveting tonite using your advice.
So, best to take the drip rails off, in your experience?

Mark
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