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Old 05-03-2012, 10:01 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by Sparky57 View Post
Also got the floor pieces all cut and ready and waiting for a warm night so I can epoxy them -- went with the West Epoxy system, planning 3 coats for the edges and first foot of perimeter, then 2 coats over the middle bits.


Any comments on epoxy on the floor? Any reason to use a water-based stain on the wood first, then top coat epoxy? Would that enhance water repellancy, or just cost $50? Alternately could varathane over the epoxy-- would that help?
I'd just go with the West System. Only issue that would make you want to put something else over the epoxy is for UV protection, but that's not an issue on the subfloor.

Try not to wait too long between epoxy coats, overnight is fine. If epoxy gets to a full cure over a few days, you'd have to sand between coats and epoxy is very hard.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:48 PM   #72
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When you put it back together put the end caps in first. This. Is the hard part for getting things lined up. Of course you have lots of those temporary rivet do das. If no buy them.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:23 AM   #73
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Ok-Thanks Steve, I was hoping for that answer. I am sooo looking forward to getting the floor in and being done with the deconstruction, welding, grinding etc!

M
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:23 AM   #74
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Ok-Thanks Steve, I was hoping for that answer. I am sooo looking forward to getting the floor in and being done with the deconstruction, welding, grinding etc!

M
Yep, it's such a big day when you get the subfloor in and most of the ripping apart done. The fun part is ahead.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #75
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This may be obvious, but maybe it will save someone from making standard newbie mistakes.

(1) Between coats, you do have to remove the "amine blush".

(2) Don't mix too much at once in a standard container, especially on a hot day. It will kick, possibly getting dangerously hot and wasting expensive material.

Here's the user guide if you don't have the link handy. WEST SYSTEM | Use Guides

Wish I was that far along! Good luck.

John
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:16 AM   #76
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Keeping the epoxy in a flat container, like a paint roller tray or pie pan, gives it more surface area for cooling and can delay kicking.

I was happily (well, sort of) epoxying the shower pan we built for our TradeWind, using a large plastic drink cup as an epoxy mixing container. Dip...brush...dip...brush...dip...brush...dip...br ush...THUNK! In between brush strokes it had kicked completely solid.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #77
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Must admit, I am delaying a little too because I am not exactly sure how to do it yet....and thanks for the tips. So, flat tray, small batches, remove the blush or else recoat when still tacky.

Have my mechanic buddy coming over to rewire all the lights and brake lines on Monday, welding the tanks in on Monday too so maybe the floor can start going into place in a week or 2.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:49 PM   #78
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Still prepping for the floor....

Well, a sick kid has kept me at home with me for the last 2 days and has given me a couple chances to work on the beast:

Got the floor epoxied with West System- 2 coats on the top and bottom, 3rd coat on the outside 12" perimeter. 12 Sheets of wood total- the top is A/C fir ply 1/4", the bottom is 3/8 AC fir ply. Thinking that the thinner wood will allow me to easily bend them into place and slide them under the C channel, then PL400/ screw the 2 layers together- just like they build boats...Used every last drop of epoxy too....

Also got the new jack in place. 1000lb side wind -- had to grind out the old hole just a 1/16th, then it slide right in. Fastened it with 3 new Grade 8 5/8 goldie colored bolts, lock washers and nuts secured with loc-tite

Removed 3 broken windows and took them down to the glass smith- getting obscure glass in the bathroom window....was a snap decision, we'll see how it looks. Just got the 3ml std glass- no tempered, was tempted but 2x the cost...Started polishing the window frames...lots of corrosion...

Decided to rewire all the running lights and brakes too- ripped all the old out and ran new 7 wire right from the Bargman plug at the jack plug all the way back to the brake area...into a weatherproof junction box and then marine wire to the brakes from there. 6 wire cable runs to the back to power the rear lights, signals, running lights and to power the reverse camera. Soldered and shrink wrapped all the new lines, old brake connections...

Also got all the steel and then cut and drilled the angle iron in to hold the tanks, and the hangers all assembled and screwed together with stainless bolts and loc-tite...now they are with my father-in- law for welding...that should all happen this week.

All my stuff came from AdventureRv.net....all looks awesome except they sent me the totally wrong fridge. Wanted the Norcold 510, they sent me some Dometic thing. I'll let you know how that turns out...

Gotta get that floor in this month!

Mark
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:07 PM   #79
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Didn't get much done, did you?

You may have had someone do you a favor with the Dometic instead of the Norcold. We bought a Norcold in 2008, thinking that it would be better, especially because it doesn't have the parasitic 12v draw.

This winter, we were on the road without enough tools when it failed. The guy that replaced our 3 year old Norcold said the the trade calls them "No-cold". We replaced it with a Dometic and were happier with the operation.

When we buy our next fridge for our '59 Overlander, it will be a Dometic.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:59 PM   #80
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I would keep it if it was the right size, or an upgrade, but it's neither so I will send it back.

Will be welding hangers in tonite, and maybe finishing the wiring on brakes this weekend ( if my backup camera ever arrives from China! )

New glass back from the glass cutters but he cut them all too short so I have to get them recut....took that opportunity to upgrade the front window pane to tempered...only 30 bucks more, and it is a big one so probably worth the extra $.

Have to finalize the plumbing layout and cut the vent and drain lines in too...
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:59 PM   #81
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Tanks are in!

Ahhh....after a marathon welding session the tanks are all hung...Ended up with lots of new steel and bolts but the tanks hangers were all custom fab'd here in my driveway and welded in using a 110 v arc welder and filler rods.

Pics below are taken from above-- was too busy to take in progress pics.....Basically we welded cross members in place to fit the width of the tank--these are 1 1/2" angle. Then we offset a 1" angle iron piece the same length about 1/8" underneath that to act as a lip to support the tank flange. This 1" angle is screwed into this flange with 8 or so 3/8 " stainless screws, lock washers, nuts and loctite. This way I can get the tank out if I need to one day from below by cutting the bolts out. Also installed 2" flat steel belly straps that were custom bent to match the shape and taper of the tank. These go under the tank, up the side and are screwed in the same way to the angle iron cross members. Solid, maybe overkill, but solid for sure.

Just need to cut the metal straps off level with the tank--already cut one tank down- the other one is showing in the picture.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:10 PM   #82
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Where did you find your jack? Nice work on the floor btw!

A suggestion... you might want to replace the hitch head on the A frame... I really don't like the way these early hitches don't cover the ball very well.
Marc
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:34 AM   #83
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I got the hitch from adventurerv.net. It is the atwood 8000- tried linking below.... It is one of the few jacks I could find that would fit the hole on the tongue- just had to grind out a 1/16th to make is slide in.

The hitch head thing is a strange little contraption for sure, but it works well on mine, and they still sell them so I figure they must be half decent. I must admit it that I triple check it whenever I hook it on, but I like the vintage feel to it so I think I'll leave in place.

Think I love about the AS is the fact that is looks and feels so hand-made.

Atwood A-Frame Sidewind Tongue Jack 1000lb. - $28.49
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:53 PM   #84
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Update....

Brake re-wiring is all complete now and tested out just perfect.

My glass came in from the Glass Smith too, so I took apart the 3 broken windows and polished them all up. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be- time consuming for sure but I listed to TED conferences on the iPad and just pick away at it. Found a nylon flapper wheel that is the best approach I have found- takes off everthing nasty, then I can sand out the scratches with 300, 400 then 600 grit wet/dry and some WD40. I caulked the glass in place with DAP Dynaflex 230, then new seals and new little screws, lubed up then painted the Herh hardware, and put it all back nice. Looks good. Tempered glass for the front window, std for the rest. Having trouble with the little rivets that hold the cross bars in place- the rivets I have are too big so I'll have to find littler ones or swap them for screws.

Also took apart the Bargman door handle and rear license plate light, porch light etc...will take them to be chromed tomorrow. $250! And that is Canadian money! Jeez.

Also ordered a new tailight- "GROTE SUPERNOVA 4" LED TAIL LIGHT #53252" It was melted by the PO.

Stupid fridge should arrive tomorrow - ordered a toilet to go with it which I got free shipping on, as well as some of those tornado clean out connectors for the blk and grey tanks.

Also ordered an received the See Level 709 PH- order on Tuesday, got it today- all the way from Alberta. Fast!

Fresh tank is back from the welders with new fittings and a drain in the bottom...not sure if that was a good idea, but we will see.

As soon as the toilet is on site then i will start on reinstalling the floor- want to make sure I put the hole in exactly the right spot.

More stuff too- mostly little things, but all moving in the right direction.

Oh, and one more tool death this week- my 1/2 drill quit...2 drills and a grinder so far.
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