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Old 04-09-2012, 05:06 PM   #57
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 124
Busy Busy!

Ok, It has been a month since my last update, but much has happened since then, as well as a trip to Disneyland with my 3 kids for 2 weeks in March....so since my last update I have :

removed the entire inner skin and insulation
removed the entire floor, except for a thin strip of wood/bolts around the front 1/3rd of the trailer, rats nest and all
pressure washed the hole thing
dropped the belly pan (just cut it away for now)
degreased and then pressure washed the frame and wire wheeled it all
prepped the metal with POR-15 metal prep and re-pressure washed
painted the frame black with POR-15
removed all the bits from the outside that need chroming and dismantled the door and lock
removed all the broken glass
ordered and received alumiprep and alodine
ordered and received 2 tanks- black (21g)and grey (38g)
prepped the trailer and hitch area for painting
finalized the layout and ordered all my appliances
ordered another $325 of bits and pieces from VTS
Bought plywood for the floor as well as a gallon of West System Epoxy
Bought insulation from insulation4less and took delivery
Got the father-in law over to start planning the tank hangers and welding repairs and got him started on new wheel well covers.

Whew!

Goal for April is to get the tanks in, epoxy and install the floor. Going with 2 layers of wood, glued and screwed together with PL500, one layer of 3/8", one layer of 1/4"...idea is it will be easier to slide under the c channel, and will be as strong as full sheets.

Also ordered wireless rear view camera from eBay.

Mark
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:26 PM   #58
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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My Airstream has a birthday!

Some pics of the progress, as well as a picture of a signature by guy who made the airstream and the date. Cool- Can't really read it but it says made by Johnny Alonza June 13, 1957
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:02 PM   #59
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1959 26' Overlander
Powder Springs , Georgia
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Wow. I think I'm tired just from reading your list. You've been busy!
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:53 PM   #60
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1954 25' Cruiser
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Cruisin , Wisconsin
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If you keep up that pace you are going to run out of things to do!!
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:55 AM   #61
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1969 25' Tradewind
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Nort Hollywood , California
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Hi mark ! Love your updates I am doing same process and learning so much from yours . Please keepup the greatly detailed steps , products and before and afters . I am so excited to follow your post .
THANK YOU
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:48 PM   #62
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Starting to look past the floor and have my eye on the looming electrical challenges. Any good resources out there? I will be starting from zero and want to end up with 30a service, solar charging, and all the gizmos....just need to find a book on what parts on I need, how to integrate them all. I understand electrical, just have no experience with 12v and the idea of converters, inverters.....Any one have any help on this one?
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:05 PM   #63
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1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
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The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

The big picture is fat wires, fat batteries and conserving watt you can...
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:38 AM   #64
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Morrill , Nebraska
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Look for a thread by lucymcdog. Lots of good info. It's a long read.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #65
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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New wheel wells and frame leveling

Progress slowed as I am waiting on welding of the tank hangers to be complete by my father in law..he is also building me a new fresh water aluminum tank for under the floor. He did complete the new wheel well covers and they look great. Made of galvanized- old ones were cold rolled steel and were rusted to bits.

Grinding out the last or the floor bolts and my angle grinder quit, started smoking and tripped the breaker-- only 3 bolts left! Dang! That is 2 Rigid power tool funerals in one month- 18v drill quit too.

Started cutting the floor out too - got the rear nose piece cut. Plan is to use 3/8 and 1/4 laminated together. I'll epoxy it with the West System on the bottom and tops, then glue and screw them together. Will be easier to fit into place and will give me a slightly thicker platform than 5/8, 6 plys of wood instead of 5....Will see how it goes and post pics as I work through it.
Also spent 2 hours trying to get the frame perfectly level for the floor install- jacks and blocks everywhere....The frame has a slight bow in it, the tail end is about 1 1/2" lower than the frame at the mid point and the nose is about a 1/2 lower than the middle too. Odd.

Realized I have to start on wiring the brakes pretty quick here too-- Will be easier with the floor out.
Mark
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:32 AM   #66
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1959 26' Overlander
Powder Springs , Georgia
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Your new wheel wells look great. I love the pictures of the empty frame with the shell on top... such a nice aluminum skeleton! Keep up the good work!
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:34 AM   #67
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Port Hadlock , Washington
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Looks to me like you chose wisely in fathers in law.

Good progress.

cheers,
steve
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:44 PM   #68
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Sealing up the cracks.

After a week of rain I was able to identify leaky rivets and start sealing up all the drippers. I plan on sealing up all the seams from inside anyway but got a start on it today seeing as it was 19 Celsius here today (that's 70f for you Americans) and the caulk I am using needs at least 10 c to set up. The stuff is DAP Dynaflex 230 exterior elastomeric caulk. Awesome stuff- have used it lots on my aged stucco house to seal cracks and what-not. Tested it on a leaky window a couple weeks ago, after the week of torrential rain there wasn't even the slightest leak (in that window ).
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:31 PM   #69
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 124
Cool Window Frames and Polishing Question

Father in Law came over and welded in the first of the tank supports today, so finally the tank installation is moving along. Already thinking to the next step and started to replace the cracked and broken windows so I can put the floor in and and keep it dry.

Also got the floor pieces all cut and ready and waiting for a warm night so I can epoxy them -- went with the West Epoxy system, planning 3 coats for the edges and first foot of perimeter, then 2 coats over the middle bits.

All my bits and pieces arrived from VTS, including the glass seals and window nuts for the Hehr windows, floor bolts, screws, etc etc. More stuff coming tomorrow too- and Friday, including a fridge, stove, furnace, Low profile AC unit, power converter, warer pump, jacks, thermostat, and more. Also got a backup camera from ebay, a Furrion electrical plug-in and Furrion matching cord set, a Furrion cable tv inlet and a Perko marine water filler with a vent. Also had to buy a fresh water tank for under the floor too...Man, it was an expensive month!

Question: I guess I have to take the glass out to get the little grey window glass seal in? Can't see how you could possibly slide the seal in without the glass out first. So I took an opening window out, took the back frame off and will get glass cut tomorrow....now am wondering how on earth to I polish the frame without scratching it all to hell? I don't have any Nuvite....do I need it?

Any comments on epoxy on the floor? Any reason to use a water-based stain on the wood first, then top coat epoxy? Would that enhance water repellancy, or just cost $50? Alternately could varathane over the epoxy-- would that help?
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:55 PM   #70
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1959 26' Overlander
Powder Springs , Georgia
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About scratching the hell out of the window frame: Our window frames were so pitted and scratched! So, we used the drill with an abrasive wheel attachment to clean them up. Yes, if you look closely at them you can still see where we used the drill attachment on them. They look infinitely better, though. (I'd do it again.)
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