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Old 10-21-2012, 11:23 AM   #155
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Thanks Brad! I sold my tent trailer and booked camping with a couple families next July so I have a deadline and 3 kids that want a trailer so thats enough to motivate me.
I probably approach it the same way you do: break the huge jobs into 25 small jobs and do them one at a time. Checked out your thread....looks like your starting point was a little further from the finish than mine so I'll cut you some slack
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:51 PM   #156
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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One more piece of belly pan installed tonight, and a bit more of the wiring completed as well as 2 backing plates installed behind the water filler and the hose inlet to make them a little more solid feeling. Also got the shower drain set into place. Got he father in law working on a battery box out of checker plate aluminum?
The west coast of Canada is getting soaked with rain storm after rainstorm this month and I have only found one leak so far, so that is satisfying.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:11 PM   #157
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Wiring

Installed the AC unit this weekend....Father in law cut the whole a bit bigger and made up some braces to support its weight, then my bro and I slid it up a ladder / ramp we made (using a pickup truck bed as the starting point) and it actually fit. Wired it all up and we are good to go.

Also lit all the wiring up this weekend too....Installed the converter, all the breakers and terminated all the wires into boxes. Installed the batteries into a new custom made battery box, cut in 2 vents and ran tubing from the box out to the outside using those little chrome vents. Also hooked up my inverter and ran it through the custom made switch that lets me power all the wall sockets through either the inverter or the converter....So shore power or not, I'll be able to plug in my toaster.
A few more steps to go- need to install a fuse between the inverter and batteries...and need to run wires into all the AC outlets, etc...

Overall the wiring went smoothly so far...just one weird problem...I have a Furrion chrome marine outlet, and a Furrion trailer plug. When I wired them using the color coded wiring diagram the neutral and ground wires in my converter were always hot, and black was not...tripping the breaker did nothing....but everything still worked. Turns out, the wiring diagrams are different for marine and trailer! How stupid is that! Took me 2 hours with a multi-meter to trace the wires, then I googled around and discovered my cord is wired NEMA 5-30 and my outlet is wired NEMA L-5-30....which is very different. I basically put the black wire in the green, green in the white and white into the black slots and it all works fine now. Uploaded a diagram as I am sure it will help someone else some day....I can't be the only one who thinks Furrion cords and Furrion plugs should naturally work together.

Oh, AC is kicking cold air too....One more step to a waterproof trailer now that I don't have a massive hole in my roof any more. Order Fatastic Fans from VTS- finally back in stock....so once those come and I install them then I think the next step is to put the skins back up.

Plumbing is all crimped too, so it feels like progress....
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:40 PM   #158
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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updates

Rolled the belly pan today - using 032 6061 T6 and it is stiff and has very little memory. I am planning on doing the perimeter of the belly pan- all the way around and bring the inner edge in far enough to fit 1 4' wide sheet down the middle. I took a couple sheets to the local metal shop and cut 28" pieces and then put one edge through the rollers to make a nice gentle arc on it.
Got all 6 pieces placed in place this weekend.

Pics show the one quick pic of one piece of belly pan- electrical tape is just a left over from having it wrapped up for transport.
Other pic shows the new fridge vent- Stainless one from airstream.com. It is worth the $$, super nice
Also, quick pic of the AC unit....It is leaking so I need to get a better frame around it so I can bolt it down tighter.
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:58 PM   #159
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1957 26' Overlander
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Oops- pics didn't attach. Here they are ...
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:12 PM   #160
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Belly Pan- Check!

Ok, the belly pan is in! What a horrid job. Seriously- the belly pan is the main reason I would argue for a shell-off restoration. With the shell on the belly pan is one hell of an ugly job. And my beast is sitting on dirt, and it was cold and wet to boot. I planned 20 hours to do it all...I think I was probably closer to 60 all in.

Here is how I did it:

T6061 .032 Aluminum from Aircraftspruce.ca. Cost was a little over $600 to my door. I got 4 sheets, 4 x 12 each, all the same gauge.

I templated the 4 corners using card and then my father in law cut and bent them up, then we installed them first and trimmed them back till they fit just right and cleco'd in place.

Then I cut and rolled the perimeter pieces and installed them, shaped them to go around the tanks and wheel wells and cleco'd in place. Then I bent up the end piece between the bumper and slipped that into place.

Then I riveted the belt-line rivets in place--with the help of my brother and 11 year old daughter holding the bucking bar and piece by piece I riveted the bottom to the frame with Trempro in the joints. I spaced the rivets 6" apart and used the big flange ones from VTS. 300 rivets and 2 dead rivet guns later I was done that part!

Also insulated then lined the spare tire cut out with metal, also bent up some little flanges pieces to cover off the exposed frame (those bits will go in this weekend.

Once those bits were in installed new levels on the frame and reinstalled all the plumbing and all the other bits that fell off along the way.


What I would do differently:
I would not use 6061 t6 .032. It is very stiff, very hard to work with and has almost no memory so it is very hard to work on the corners. A softer metal or a thinner gauge-or both.

I would use less rivets- I think I may have overdone it.

I wouldn't do it with the shell on! In all aspects I advocate for shell-on restoration...in this case having the shell off would have been infinitely easier. With all the tanks hanging down and all the little lines and wires coming and going, and the plumbing, and framing members I spent sooo much time snipping, trimming, shaping, refitting, reshaping, clamping and measuring.

I would buy more metal- I barely had enough. I have one strip 4" x 24" left over!

Last job is to install a couple vents and then frame the tanks with aluminum cladding. I will use some other kind of aluminum for that, no 6061 left to do that.

Pics show the front tire area, rear area around the tanks, and the new jacks, etc.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:24 PM   #161
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1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
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Sparky,

I remember our first attempt at a bellypan corner. My son and I spent 14 man hours the first day and ended up producing nothing but frustration. We used soft aluminum, not the tougher 6061 you used.

That is a very impressive job you've done. So glad that the task is over for you and that it looks so good. Working on cold ground is miserable, isn't it?

Congrats!

John
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:27 PM   #162
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Solar Panels- Check!

Also installed Solar panels:

2 65W Solar panels (130W total) mounted mid-line on the trailer. Used some through-hull marine fittings to bring the wires through the outer skin inside.

I bought lower power solar panels than I had dreamed of, but added an MPPT controller so I can get max power out of the panels I have. I got a 10a MPPT Solar Controller and a remote monitoring unit that shows the battery charge state, the power going into the panels and power coming out.
I really like it so far.
Post some pics later of the finished install.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:52 PM   #163
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Aaah, yes. The bellypan. I remember it not so fondly. I definitely agree that re-doing the bellypan would be infinitely better with a shell-off. We also did a shell-on. Took about 4 times longer that we thought (I actually think I understated that), and was not exactly easy. Don't plan on doing it again. Everytime he talks about taking a section off to do something I try to talk him out of it! Now that it's done though, it looks nice. So does yours!

Kay
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:48 PM   #164
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1957 26' Overlander
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Thanks John, thanks Kay!
And it is nice to hear that it is *actually* that hard, as hard as it felt. To top it off, I was working solo. I really enjoyed the first 10 hours...then it started to get harder and harder, and the rest felt like a frustrating chore with no end in sight. I think I may need a support group or medication to get over it.

Now it feels like I am on the the fun stuff once I put the inner skins back in. Finishing work and cabinet building! I have no idea how to do that either!
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:54 PM   #165
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Beautiful work on the belly pan. That was unquestionably the most difficult part of our restoration - and we had the shell off. Yours looks great and the 6061 will probably hold up very well to years of road abuse, so you will get your money's worth out of all that hard work. Can't wait to see your next update.

Norm
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:32 AM   #166
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Thanks Norm! I love your Overlander blog... I have 3 young daughters and am planning on bunks...any tips? I am wondering how wide is wide enough and how much height between mattress and roof is sufficient for kids. What do your bunks measure?

Mark
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:48 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky57 View Post
Thanks Norm! I love your Overlander blog... I have 3 young daughters and am planning on bunks...any tips? I am wondering how wide is wide enough and how much height between mattress and roof is sufficient for kids. What do your bunks measure?

Mark
Sent via pm, but in case anyone else is looking for this information -

The bunk is 75 1/4" x 28 1/8".

The height to the interior ceiling at the outer edge of the bunk is 23". At the center of the bunk (as the roof curves down) there is apprx. 19 1/2" of clearance. (these measurements are from the top of the 4" mattress).

The bottom of the bunk sits on cleats that are bolted to the bulkheads at either end of the bedroom area. The cleats are at 51 1/2" off the floor.

The bunk rails are constructed from 4 3/8" x 3/4" wood - auto correct wants to call it magma honey but you know it as a dark wood from African and South America.

I have to add that ironically our kids haven't slept in the bunks yet. Our youngest is still uncomfortable with the height and we never got around to buying the cushions for the dinette. So, our nightly routine is a little silly. We take the mattresses from the bunks and put them on the dinette to make a queen bed. One of us sleeps up front with our youngest daughter, our oldest gets one of the main beds and the parent who drew the long stick for the night gets the other main bed.

Hopefully we will get our dinette cushions this winter and at least our older daughter can start using the bunk.

I'd also recommend a ladder of some sort. The kids have trouble getting down on their own without one.

Norm
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:12 PM   #168
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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Looks great Sparky! I have started on one corner but failed miserably. Then it came to me one night. Ill make a pattern out of heavy paper. ( should have just read your post :0)... ) anyway, like you I'm working solo so it's hard to get motivated. When I do, I'll post som photos. Thanks for the inspiration.

JT
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