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Old 11-28-2017, 09:54 AM   #1
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1957 22' Flying Cloud
seattle , Washington
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 7
1957 flying cloud subfloor replacement

I have gutted and removed the interior skin. Doing research on subfloor replacement and finding lots of great info on canopy removal and replace but wondering if there is a way around canopy separation?. Work space/storage is very limited.

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Old 11-28-2017, 10:28 AM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
Join Date: May 2015
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I know people have piece milled the subfloor on without removing the shell. But, I would think to do the subfloor, C-channel and elevator bolts correctly, you would have to separate the shell from the chassis. Do you have room to detach the shell, elevate it a few inches above the subfloor? Iíve seen people brace the inside shell from rib to rib and raise the shell up and place on sawhorses above the chassis to access space for work. If itís outside, you really have to be careful with the light shell and wind. Iím sure some will chime in with suggestions. Good luck. Bubba

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Old 11-28-2017, 05:15 PM   #3
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1963 22' Safari
1955 26' Cruiser Overlander
Yakima Valley , Washington
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Yes you can, it's a lot of work. If yours is a California built trailer you should be able to remove the center 4 feet of aluminum belly pan by drilling the rivets out from below. I'd remove the plywood from above first, and clean the belly pan out before doing it or you'll be covered in all the things that have lived, died, ate, or pooped in that belly pan over the years plus years of dust and dirt.

Once you drop the middle 4 feet of metal front to back, you can then carefully drop down the aluminum that wraps around and tucks under the exterior wall. That will give you access to all bolts etc. You can clean, repair and paint the frame, then when you cut your plywood, you can start with your front most and rear most panels, and install them back before the curves start by inserting one side all the way under the wall, then carefully flexing the walls out until it drops in place, then drive it forward (or back) into the curved end caps. Bolt down with elevator bolts, repeat, repeat again etc.

to help keep the shell aligned and the body on, do the trailer in halves (that also helps keep the shell secure and not prone to blowing off in the wind). A 2x4 and bottle jack on a bow (use another board along the ceiling to spread out the weight) and you can jack the shell up just enough to take the pressure off the sheets to move the forward and back easier.

When you take the floor out, leave some pieces or scraps under the walls at the frame to keep the shell supported, pull out what you need as you go. Some 1x4 scraps work or plywood scraps.

the biggest help is that before you start, mark where the sheets start and stop and make very accurate templates of your front and back plywood to the interior of the wall then when you make the new plywood just add the thickness of the wall to your template and you'll have a great fit. Marine plywood, sealing the ends with epoxy will help your work last a long time. Tacoma Screw carries elevator bolts you need to reinstall.

I'm in Yakima, if you need, I texted you contact info. I also am interested in any 57 interior parts you don't think you'll use.
Scott & Megan
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
Wally Byam's 1955 26' European Caravan Trailer!
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