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Old 04-26-2013, 03:35 PM   #15
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Hey ERik

I saw your pics of the bunk. Could you tell me the exact model of the IKEA mattress you installed?

thanks ERic
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:03 PM   #16
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Eric,

SULTAN FLORVÅG Foam mattress - Twin - IKEA is the Sultan Florvag.

e
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:06 AM   #17
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My original two-way (110V/LP) Dometic RM-77 packed it in at the end of last season - mmm... ammonia! - and I'm going to try and install the new unit myself.

My current unit is an RM-77, left-hinged set-up, tucked very neatly into the original 1974 Ambassador mid-twin model (single pantry layout) cabinetry.

Dometic recommends: RM2820 (and others).

http://www.dometic.com/c17faeab-a5a2...17a7cff0.fodoc

Has anyone upfitted their refrigerator in this model? If so, any landmine warnings I should know about? Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:38 PM   #18
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Eric,
I am facing the same job, replacing my original RM100 with the RM2820. Wondering if you had to do many mods for the cabinetry? Did you have to build out, or cut back? I looks like I could go either way, but not sure which is best.
-dave
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Old 04-18-2014, 08:05 AM   #19
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Duckdave,


I'd have to see a photo of your cabinets to be certain, but in our case, there was no modification necessary. I do have the service manual for 1974 models, which was incredibly helpful, especially for the uninstallation procedure on the RM77.


The RM2820 is much lighter than the RM77 unit, which is fantastic.


From a dimension standpoint, the RM2820 cabinet is very close in height to the RM77, however, there is a 2"H x 24"W electronic control panel bolted proud to the top of the refrigerator. You'll end up completely removing the living room bulkhead (not a big deal, just a few wood screws hold it in place) and then the long top shelf over the fridge will be loose. We went the extra step to completely remove the top shelf, so gain access to all sides of the refrigerator and to clean the wall panels that you otherwise cannot get to.


The RM2820 fits perfectly into the original factory space. The RM77 was held into place with many more screws than you'll find required for the new unit. Two toe-kick screws go into the floor at a very shallow angle from the front, two 5/16" x 1.5" stainless lag bolts into the floor from the back of the unit (through the service port).


The electronic panel, in our installation, nested inside the quarter-round coping/reinforcement extrusion that runs the full length of that top shelf. It will capture the electronic panel to within 1/16" - 1/8" of the buttons.


From a wiring standpoint, we took 12V (for sparking the gas operation) from the closest living room cigarette lighter, which was idle in our unit. You may have 12V already at the fridge, but we couldn't find it.


The one mystery of the installation, which I will eventually resolve, is the seemingly unused blue wire that is on the RM2820. It is dangling near the 12V +/- terminal block and I'm not sure of its purpose. If anyone has an idea what it does, let me know! Otherwise, I'll call Dometic to see if they have an answer.
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Olson View Post
From a wiring standpoint, we took 12V (for sparking the gas operation) from the closest living room cigarette lighter, which was idle in our unit. You may have 12V already at the fridge, but we couldn't find it.
One of those 12V sockets has the antenna amplifier inside it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Olson View Post
The one mystery of the installation, which I will eventually resolve, is the seemingly unused blue wire that is on the RM2820. It is dangling near the 12V +/- terminal block and I'm not sure of its purpose. If anyone has an idea what it does, let me know! Otherwise, I'll call Dometic to see if they have an answer.
Another place where a blue wire is used is in the umbilical from your TV. Could the refer's blue wire be for connection to that wire so that you can have 12V to operate the refer while travelling?

It should be fairly obvious, since there aren't too many wires at the back of the unit, are there?
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:52 AM   #21
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Eric,
Thanks a BUNCH for your reply. It is very encouraging. As you describe your cabinetry it sounds identical to mine.

Quote:
The electronic panel, in our installation, nested inside the quarter-round coping/reinforcement extrusion that runs the full length of that top shelf. It will capture the electronic panel to within 1/16" - 1/8" of the buttons.
If I understand you correctly, you're saying the front end-cap on the bottom shelf of the china cabinet will fit over the RM2820 control panel, but still allow access to the buttons?

Thanks for the detail of your reply describing the best way to access the fridge for R & R (removal/replacement). I've had the RM100 out a couple of times for previous repairs/burping/etc. Tired of all that, which is why we are going new for a while. Anyway, I'm familiar with removal of bulkhead---you resist, thinking it's too much disassembly; then you go ahead and do it and realize that was the way to go all along.
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:04 PM   #22
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Found someone selling those harder-to-find bunk bed keyhole slotted brackets...

http://airstreamsupply.com/New-Airst...ed-alum-340012
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