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Old 07-30-2009, 12:51 PM   #57
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I sprayed my frame with a cheap harbor frieght spray gun. I to was laying on the rocks.
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:19 PM   #58
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I set up to spray it on but chose not to apply for that Darwin Award category.

I used glass canning jars and divided a quart up to three smaller jars - I used the electronics cleaner canned dry air (carbon dioxide or a refrigerant gas) to displace any air in them, filling them to the brim with the cold canned air and then poured in the POR-15 to keep humid air from mixing and starting the curing reaction.

It worked well, I still have a planters peanuts glass jar with POR-15 in it that I did that to and TWO years later there is zero pressure built up in it. Carbon Dioxide is one of the by-products of POR-15 curing so its safe to use...

I surely recommend the POR-15 thinner; wet the brush with it before you start and some drips worked into the brush as you go along will delay the POR-15 from turning to rock, it will stiffen up but not set while you use it. Slight thinning also improves its leveling and pit and crevice filling 'wetting' power.

I wanted to spray everything, underside of plywood too, etc. but ended up using oil-based Kilz with a roller for the flooring BUT I was battling a nearly lethal odor (to me) of ancient condensed formaldehyde black tank chemical spills or worse (whats a meth lab smell like?) that was out gassing formic acid and other compounds and had saturated anything porous in the trailer.
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:40 PM   #59
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Zeppelinium as always you are welcome anytime. The dog is all bark, if you bring a bone he will love you forever.

As far as to spray or not to spray. I am planing on both. There are some areas that I will brush. But the major areas I will be spraying. I have gone with the harbor freight $20 spray gun. How much damage can I do?

Wabbiteer did painting the underside of the plywood seal the smells in? I am planning to do the same thing.

The kicker in the painting thing is, lately it hasn't been warm enough. Imagine that its July and to cold to paint. I am blaming it on the economy. Life is just hard
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Old 08-01-2009, 10:10 AM   #60
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Oh no - cool temperatures will be your friend, especially with spraying. I ended up working till 2AM and 38-40 temperatures and the polyurethane based POR-15 fired up nicely, maybe even slow enough to allow me to get the 27' frame and all its details well coated before turning to glass the way it does.

Getting grid of the complete underfloor fiberglass got rid of some of the Norway Rat smells - the painting got 99.5% of the remaining EXTERIOR odors; lying underneath trailer no longer reminded of anything except being near 4000 pounds of world class trailer..

I flipped a coin when I got the trailer as to which end needed to be gone destructoid on - I chose the back bath and stripped all out and still had the "smell" but I knew the black tank liabilities were no longer in play. I painted the entire interior flooring that I could reach with porch paint and that helped but still kept having a reaction to something in trailer...

THREE YEARS LATER (last week!) I removed the galley; furnace and the rest of the ducting and plumbing and got 90% of the offensive odor remaining; Joe Somewhen either intentionally or accidentally allowed a bottle of old-style black tank chemical to fall and seep/leak under the furnace - water pump - ducts and it played merry hell with me until EVERYTHING in that area was thrown out into the yard and two coats of oil paint covered the playwood floor. I need to remove the wheel well covers and clean, re insulate, and recover that area as the floor sag made everything drain into the forward edge of the WW cover...

Note: when I painted I left a three-inch strip un-coated around the periphery both top and bottom to allow the plywood some breathing area for if/when water got inside the shell. That I cleaned with bleach water.

The downside of painting the under floor is the chances of liquid water build up from condensation cycles dripping/wicking/flowing into places they wont dry easily - I used foil-foam-foil Prodex insulation over top the paint, left an airspace, and made the shell layer of insulation into a slight bowl shape (by 1/4") and punched a drip hole just in case...
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:52 AM   #61
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Work update-This past weekend was spent prepping the rust areas for replacement. I painted areas that would be covered by reinforcement members and ground to ensure good welding surfaces. Monday I was able to steel away and get some actual welding done. The good news is I see the light at the end. Bad news I won't meet my summer goal of having: frame repaired and painted, ridged insulation installed, new sub-floor in the back, and inside wall removed. I know I know it always takes longer than what is planed. The fall and winter is looking good with the kids and wife starting school, there should be more free time for trailer work. We will see?
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:39 PM   #62
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Frame Repair is Done

For the past few weeks I have been sneaking out and working on the frame every change I got. I am proud to say I am finished. Time will tell but I thing all is good. It is good to check something off the list. Sunday after finishing the welding I cut the new back end sub floor, painted the top of the frame with POR-15. The question of the day is should I seal the edges of the sub floor. The current plan is to paint the top and bottom. I have read both ways, seal the edges and don't. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:01 PM   #63
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Ok...The noob ?...I don't get the Reno reference...Maybe because I live in Reno???
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:16 PM   #64
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I can only tell you what I did, right or wrong. Seall new wood end-grain edges to rejection of any additional paint - capillary action can draw water, a little the first time until the wick action gets primed by dust, dirt, herds of wildebeests seeking water, etc...
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:27 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedfords View Post
For the past few weeks I have been sneaking out and working on the frame every change I got. I am proud to say I am finished. Time will tell but I thing all is good. It is good to check something off the list. Sunday after finishing the welding I cut the new back end sub floor, painted the top of the frame with POR-15. The question of the day is should I seal the edges of the sub floor. The current plan is to paint the top and bottom. I have read both ways, seal the edges and don't. Any thoughts?
Yup, seal 'em with epoxy. I sealed with something else, and just after I laid my new ACX subfloor I had a section of edge that was exposed to the elements where the water heater hole was. After just a couple of brief rains, there was already some ply separation. I quickly neutralized it with epoxy, and now that section is hard as a rock, and more impenetrable than one. It's really a minor step and a minor cost compared to everything you have already done, and everything you are about to do.

Good luck!

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Old 08-24-2009, 01:13 PM   #66
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Why Reno and What it means

To clarify the "Reno" in Extreme Reno Starts Now is for Renovation not Reno, NV. I see the confusion. The famous last words "what I meant to do was" copy ABS's Extreme Home Makeover Edition show. The problem is the phrase was to long to fit so I needed to abbreviate. In the construction industry it is common to hear reno substituted for renovation so it seemed logical. Thats the what and the why.
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Old 08-25-2009, 07:02 AM   #67
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Silicon

A little update on current going ons. The back sub floor section is in place. It took the kids and a neighbor kid to get it started. The good side of having it out through the frame restoration process I had more room to move around. The down side is I reinforced the frame to the point it was hard to get the separation to slid the floor in.

At night I scrape Silicon from around the windows. I have encountered at least 3 types. One is white and more rubbery -not to hard to get off. The other two are clear, one is still elastic and impossible to get off. The second is brittle and not much fun either. I will be searching the forum to find the latest silicon removal products.
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:48 PM   #68
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2 month Update

I haven't updated in almost 2 months now and what to bring every thing up to current statues. I have completed the prepping and painting of the frame minus the front tongue. I used "One Step Rust Killer" from the back up to the water tank area. I sprayed two heave coats. The product is milky white with the same viscosity. It is a water base product which makes cleanup easy. Once dry on your skin it doesn't come off. The web site show and sample that is completely black. After drying the color varied between semi clear to purple to black. I haven't been able to predict a pattern to the coloring. I have used it on smaller parts with different amounts of rust and just can't see any reasoning to it. So I changed products and went back to the trusted POR-15 from the front of the trailer from behind the water tank area forward. The back end I painted with a black Rust-Oleum. Time will tell on this. I have determined it is easier to hand paint and to spray due to all the masking and taping. In the end you spend about the same amount of time which every way you go.
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Old 10-14-2009, 01:16 PM   #69
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More Updating

With frame painted it was time to replace the back floor. As see in earlier post there was floor separation that lead to rout. The new 3/4" ply sheet was cut and maneuvered in place. I in listed the kids and neighborhood high school for help. With a lot of effort and a little sanding it was worked into place. I replaced the wall channel and added two pieces of bent Aluminum to replace the original steel plate that is the week link. I have not replaced the exterior skin yet. I am in need of a riveting helper. I finished up with installing new elevator bolts. I tend on the side of over fastening so I added a few more than what originally was used.

Time to insulate the floor. My approach was to use 2" ridged insulation screwed to the underside of floor. Each piece is cut to be a tight fit. I have noticed there is now a squeak in the front when I walk down the what will be hall way. I am still throwing around the idea of putting bubble foil in between the floor and the 2" of ridged. I will furture be using the foil at the holding tank areas. I have finished the install of the 2" ridged insulation between all floor webbing and outriggers. I will try to get some pics posted later.
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:12 AM   #70
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Interior Progress

I will attempt to bring things up to date on my progress. In preparation for removal of interior skins I numbered each sheet with a simple numbering system that make sense to me. All pieces on the street side start with S# on the curb side they start with C# and front and back are F# or B#. Once a section was removed the number was written on the back at the top of the sheet. I also tried to take multiple pictures with the numbers showing. The reason for removing all the interior walls I had clear evidence that the mice had been in the walls. The third pic shows some of the damage.
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