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Old 02-24-2009, 11:56 PM   #43
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1974 31' Sovereign
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BIGED52---Well, you know how it goes--no one wants to help with the 'blood sweat and tears' , but they are ALWAYS WILLING TO REAP THE BENEFITS!!! I keep reminding my husband and family that IF I am l lucky enough to possess these skills in which to 'get 'er done', that he needs to just 'lay off' or pitch in--either one to help!!
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:13 AM   #44
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We are all pulling for you and are ready to look at any and all pictures you want to share. I bet before long he will be out there helping you make it a real memory maker for your travels and campouts. Wishing you the best of luck with your Reno... Ed
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:49 PM   #45
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Smiling Trailer

Over the last few weekends I have been removing and adding outriggers. As you looked down the trailer from the inside, the trailer was actually frowning.
With the edge of the floor lifted slightly I welded good outriggers with a slight up angle next to each of the existing outriggers. Then I raised the existing outrigger up to the new elevation and welded it to the new one. If the rusted outrigger was say at the wheel-well then I replaced it completely or added a piece of angel to the bottom for strength and cover rust holes. I have made my way around the trailer replacing or added to all that needed help except for the two at the steps. I hopefully will have material coming tomorrow to reinforce some of the rusted frame channel. This weekend will be spent replacing the outriggers at the steps and hopefully welding in the C-channel reinforcement.
I have notice an issue with raising the angle of the outriggers, there is oil-canning happening on the back sides just in front of the end cap. I am hopeful this will go away when I install the new flooring. Worst case Iíll shim under the floor in the back to push the end cap up to relieve the bulge in the skin.
I will try and post some pictures of the newly added outriggers.

Inside demo and investigations have uncovered that mice have been in the walls!! So plans have changed, I will be taking down the interior skins, cleaning, and replacing insulation. The idea for the moment is to remove one side make repairs and reinstall skins before removal of the other side.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:35 PM   #46
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I've got to visit INSIDEOUT and pick up a tool. When I do, I'll stop by, maybe take some photos!

Keep on truckin'
Zep
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:21 AM   #47
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Zep, your welcome any time. You wouldn't have a sand blaster by chance? I am starting the prep work for spraying on POR-15. The dirt and rust are bad in some hard to reach areas. Hope I'm around when you stop in, it has been a while sense we talked. Have a great weekend.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:43 AM   #48
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I have a sandblaster but you will have to wait a week as I,m in B.C.
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Old 06-22-2009, 03:10 PM   #49
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Sandblaster

Father's Day was good the kids got me a sandblaster and a spray gun all for the frame prep and painting.

Sunday was spent removing the steel piece down low in the back that attach's to the exterior skin and wall channel right at the floor. My fix is to replace with a similar length of Aluminum angle 4"x4". I will cut the bad exterior skin off and replacing. Attached pic shows damage of skin and edge of the floor before the floor and steel was removed.

The last cross member of the frame was totally gone so I welded in a 2"x2" angle across the top and another on the bottom of the C channel. I then added angle in the vertical, evenly space between the new upper and lower angles. Second pic shows floor removed and missing cross member.

I will try and take some pics of the progress tonight.
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:43 PM   #50
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That looks so familiar. I would recommend that you change out that entire rear skin. it would be less work then a skin splice. You get the Aluminum and I'll cut and bend for you. I replaced that with .050
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:41 AM   #51
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Pics of Progress

Had a chance to snap some pics last night. I'll start with outriggers adds and replacement. Some I salvaged from another trailer (the black ones). Some are new fab'd for me by a true craftsman. And finally I used angle on a few of the solid ones that had rust only on the bottoms.
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:50 AM   #52
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The back

And now a couple of pics of rebuilding the back end. Notice corrosion of the base c-channel and the new AL angle. See added outrigger at back.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:55 AM   #53
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Much work little progress

The month of July has seen me spend many hours on my back grinding and cutting the frame. Every time I look it, the frame, over I see another area that needs to be replace. I have replaced the outriggers at the steps and installed new elevator bolts in floor frame assembly. Monday night I cut off the side "S" shaped rails that hold the water tank up. There is lots of rust between the S and the C-channel. Not sure what the final repair approach will be. Last Tuesday night being fresh out of cutoff wheels for the grinder I spend an hour drilling old rivets out of the frame. Next on the list, if I can get the frame repaired, is sand blast the bad spots, paint with POR-15, insulate and install pan. Then it is inside for replacement of all wall insulation.
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:53 AM   #54
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Gawrsh that nice rounded river pebble looks comfy and cool!

A couple of things -

POR-15 likes some rust to bite into.. I used a dilute oven/grill cleaner to get the caustic action going to make it rust and help strip a majority of oil off it but I also let it sit out and weather for a few weeks. Sand-blasting removes too much good metal in my opinion, BE SPARING where you use it - the POR stand for paint over rust, just remove the flakes and scaling that are or about to become loose. If you havent used POR-15 before you are in for a treat

The best way I found to remove the factory asphalt based frame paint remaining everywhere not rusted away was using a 3-inch wire wheel on a compressed air die grinder, beware thrown wires; I wore one for 4-5 days under my skin from lying on one wrongly, taped a magnet over it to get it out. The abrasive biscuits work also but are much slower and load up fast. Did I say beware loose wires? I made up rare-earth magnet broom and religously swept the area everytime I crawled out from under trailer after getting pierced.

The asphalt based paint traces remaining will not solvent wipe away easily - for the important parts (axle plates, F/R exposed frame) I used aerosol carb cleaner but the brown-black paint kept oozing out of the pores of the metal. I ended up over coating some smears, etc and it did just fine.

The ladder frame interior cross member spaces forward of the axle were pristine on my '73 so I used Rustoleum flat-black aerosol there.

I used thinned POR-15 using their solvent (<5%) everywhere else for 2 coats minimum, more coats (4, 5, etc.) where I saw it needed it as I went along. Using a 2" wide brush the extra solvent made it go on easier, cut through any films left after above procedures, and sure stretched the coverage plus helped paint fill the million dimples and pits of serious rust without just forming a bubble that would later pop and leave bare metal.

Getting the second coat on while the first still has some 'grab' to it when you slide a fingertip across it is important, I worked well after midnight using a fluorescent drop light as the only light source and got a paint job 1000% better than I expected. After 2+ years there are only 3 or 4 places where one rust pit did not get filled and has a 1mm rust spot showing.

The first coat fumes are not bad - its when it is firing up to set AND you have to do the second/third coats that it can cause the next day hangover when you've breathed it for 3 or four hours. Stay upwind as much as possible or use a cartridge style respirator.

Well - sorry for the lecture, time to get back to work here... Good luck with the next steps!!
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:08 AM   #55
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Wabbiteer -Thanks for the advice. I am facing an overwhelming task of getting the frame paint ready. 29' is a lot of surfaces. Did you spray or brush the POR-15? The rocks are too bad. I get a back message for hours and hours and hours and
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:34 PM   #56
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You can brush it. It has great self-leveling qualities.

One of these days I will get up to see you--you'd think Denver was the back side of the moon, or something.

Zep
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