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Old 06-30-2019, 10:23 AM   #1
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1974 27' Overlander
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1974 Refrigerator Just Stopped Chillin'

I have a 1974 International. It's 27' long, with the VIN starting "127B4", which is how I'm told the International series can be associated with the Overlander --and possibly Ambassador models ? -- since there is no forum for Internationals made prior to 1980 .

The unitís refrigerator just very recently stopped refrigerating reliably. Electric power works for all other trailer functions. The trouble-shooting section for the 1974 SERVICE Manual (as opposed to the "Owner's Manual") states on its p. 95 that one possible issue (No. 10 of 13 ) could be "Break in Electrical Circuit" , and that possible remedies could be "Check fuses, switches, wiring" etc.

Sounds possibly simple enough, until I find that I can't tell WHICH fuse is dedicated to the refrigerator, AND what the proper rating for this fuse should be ! The image in the "OWNERS Manual" of both the "Univolt" Low Voltage Distribution Panel ( p. 65 ) AND the list of the "Fuses and Circuit Breakers" ( p. 67 ) also offer no clear indications of what to do, though amps are listed for all fuse locations. I'm assuming here that the Univolt circuit board located underneath the cookstove is the only location for circuits I have to work with (another thing which is NOT clear in either manual).

Help is Appreciated !
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:52 AM   #2
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Start with the fuses even if you don't know which is which. To be certain, just replace them all. However, I suspect your problem lies elsewhere. Does the fridge run on 12v and/or LP? If it does, then you likely need to replace to 110v heating element which is pretty easy on these old fridges. Is your fridge a Dometic 100 by any chance? Those seem to be common for the era, I just repaired the same model for $35 and an hour or so of my time.

Ian
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Old 06-30-2019, 11:29 AM   #3
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If the refer is original. It does not require 12 volt DC.
It runs on propane or 120 volt AC power.
Select propane, check for flame at the burner. Monitor the freezer floor for temperature drop.
Can you post a pic of the controls?
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:22 PM   #4
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1974 27' Overlander
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Originally Posted by Iansk View Post
Start with the fuses even if you don't know which is which. To be certain, just replace them all. However, I suspect your problem lies elsewhere. Does the fridge run on 12v and/or LP? If it does, then you likely need to replace to 110v heating element which is pretty easy on these old fridges. Is your fridge a Dometic 100 by any chance? Those seem to be common for the era, I just repaired the same model for $35 and an hour or so of my time.

Ian
It's indeed a Dometic 110 volt. I've only ever run it on the electric setting plugged into a nearby service post. I'm with you on changing ALL of the fuses, since I don't know their age anyway past 20+ years. I'll also try to get the heating element (part no. 17 30 74-01/4 in my manual ).

Question: Is the heating element located on the back of the fridge, necessitating its removal so I can DIY it ? The manual is not clear again on this.

Thanks for getting me on what seems like the right track.
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:29 PM   #5
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1974 27' Overlander
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
If the refer is original. It does not require 12 volt DC.
It runs on propane or 120 volt AC power.
Select propane, check for flame at the burner. Monitor the freezer floor for temperature drop.
Can you post a pic of the controls?
Thanks, TJ,

I forgot to mention that it's Dometic 110 volt. I've only ever run it on the electric setting plugged into a nearby service post. I'll start by changing ALL of the fuses, since I don't know their age anyway past 20+ years. I'll also try to get the heating element (part no. 17 30 74-01/4 in my manual ).

Question #1: Is it going to be necessary to run the propane setting on the unit as a part of the re-start process, since I've never done so before and plan to continue to only run the unit on electric power ?

Question #2: Is the heating element located on the back of the fridge, necessitating its removal so I can DIY it ? The manual is again not clear on this, but this seems logical.
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Old 06-30-2019, 04:01 PM   #6
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Not necessary to use propane if the heating element and thermostat are good.
I would suspect the heating element has failed.
You should be able to replace the element with access thru the outside hatch.
It will be located in a well on the lower right corner of the refer. Removal of the sheet metal shrouds and insulation will be required to gain access.
Be sure to have the power turned off. Then just follow the 2 wires to the location of the heating element.
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