Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-06-2015, 12:15 AM   #15
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
Aage - The shelf the Univolt was on was in an extremely hard to get to spot, I actually had to take a cordless power tool and open up the access panel Airstream put in because I couldn't get the unit out of that space (didn't fit through the original opening). I do realize it would be one hell of a situation to cause it to get soaked, but there is plumbing pipes right next to where the Univolt and copious wires were, so it would still be a possibility. I know they were making use of available space, but on the other side next to the toilet is where the circuit breakers are at, and they're buried at the back of the cabinet, I'm not looking forward to squeezing in there to replace them!

I will be making a point of giving the converter ample airflow, in fact where I'm putting it will probably be better than trying to stuff it back into where the Univolt was. The closet is open at the top, and I will likely put a mesh across the bottom of the door to allow airflow into. The two will both equally accessible in this layout.

As for the receptacle, no there was not one. The Univolt was directly wired into the 120v line, which from what I saw suggests that it may never have been removed before because those wires, along with the battery wires, would not allow it to come out of its space. The addition of the receptacle, along with moving it out to the closet, will definitely allow for ease of access and servicing, should it ever require it. Also means I can disconnect the 12v system completely should the need ever arise without having to pull fuses or shut off the 120v system, not that I expect something like that to happen.
__________________

__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2015, 03:42 PM   #16
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
I can't remember if I replaced the converter while I had the bathtub out, but I don't think so. Anyway, it's certainly your trailer, so don't feel funny about doing what you feel is the right way to do it.

You are fortunate that you had the extra wire curled up inside though, the length of my wiring didn't allow for placing the converter where you put your, and I was not in the mood to extend the wires.

One thing I didn't do while I had mine open was to add another 12V circuit to the box and run it to where the refer is. At the time it wasn't required, but when I got around to replacing the refer, the newer one required 12V to energize it's control board, and I had already tapped into the nearby 12V coach socket for my LP gas leak detector and didn't want to share that important a circuit with the refer.

What is the situation with your current refer...?
__________________

__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2015, 04:15 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
I'm guessing by refer you mean refrigerator? Still learning all the lingo (definitely a fun part of picking up a different project like this).

That will be part of getting this converter business sorted. Since everything except the A/C goes off the same circuit breaker, I haven't had a chance yet to test out any of the other equipment in the trailer. I could've probably tested it once I'd removed the Univolt, but figured I'd wait til I get the new gear in place and test the system as a whole.

Considering how excellently the A/C works, I've got high hopes for the refrigerator to be in good shape as well. Other than needing to be wiped down and cleaned out, it appears to be in good shape. Here's hoping looks aren't deceiving!
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2015, 08:24 PM   #18
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
You can simply run a heavy-duty extension cord to the refer (yup, codeword for fridge ) if you want to see if it runs. Put something in, like an ice cube tray full of water, and let it go overnight.

But you do have lots of other stuff to do.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 02:52 AM   #19
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
Very good idea! If it isn't raining in the morning (since we've suddenly gotten wet weather here in NorCal) I'll run a cable out to it and then check it when I get home from work.
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 10:52 PM   #20
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
Tried running the cable to the refer, no luck. Though I did notice that it's got both 120v and 12v connections on the back, so maybe it requires both to run?

I popped the fuse panel cover off of the back of it and everything looks to be in good shape, so I'll wait til I get the converter issue sorted and give it a try with full power.
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 12:03 AM   #21
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
Yes, if it has a 12V tag, you do need to supply it with same; that usually runs the control board. I didn't think they used 12V control boards in '72 but I could be wrong. This is making me think that the refer might well have been changed out at some time.

If you have the back open, pull out the 120V heater element (easy to get at), connect it directly to 120V and see if it gets hot. Careful, it gets REALLY hot really fast if it is working.

If it doesn't heat up you need a new one. About $40 from one of the suppliers of cooling units (the heart of the refer, what make it cool/freeze).

Get the model number and Google the Owner's/Service Manual. Might be a help, plus at least you can see what is supposed to be going on in there...
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 01:09 AM   #22
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
Good to know on the element, if I get a chance this weekend I'll give it a try.

That being said, moving forward with the 12v wiring. I got bored waiting on my 3d printer making a bunch of noise so I went out and did some wiring. I got the four 20a fused wires and the car battery 40a fused wire installed, along with the common ground. Also replaced the circuit breakers while I was at it, the old ones had some corrosion on the back sides, and it seems like they were never mounted properly to the breaker rack in the box.

I need to figure out how to wire the ammeter and the power light. I think I saw instructions for the power light so I'll look around after posting this.

I need to pick up the fuses as well as a length of battery cable and connectors, both for replacing the corroded battery cables and to run between the converter and the fuse block. Probably stop by O'reilly's or Napa tomorrow to get those.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream_circuitbreakers_new_01.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	35.1 KB
ID:	235914   Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream_circuitbreakers_new_03.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	64.4 KB
ID:	235915  

__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 02:02 AM   #23
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
So just picking up a shunt for the ammeter sounds like the solution for that, on to the power light.
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 02:17 AM   #24
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
And the info I'm seeing for the Power On light suggests I'll have to do some thinking about how I'm going to approach that.
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 07:04 AM   #25
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,204
Images: 25
There is a shunt on the front of the old Univolt. Use the search feature here and look for pictures of it and how to wire it in to your new set-up.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2015, 04:59 PM   #26
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
I've seen a few folks take the old fuse panel off and reuse that, may look into that, or possibly just the shunt. Someone I talked to said that, since the new converter is a 75amp and the Univolt was a 45amp, this may cause a problem for trying to use the old shunt. Input and insights on this are appreciated.

In the mean time, I got the converter to fuse / distribution panel red and black wires run last night, and will run a ground wire for the converter to the chassis tonight if I get home early enough. All being well I might be able to hook up the power later tonight and see what happens.

I don't have battery wires in yet as I still need to run them, I may just connect the new wiring to the original battery wires and run those together for a short-term fix, but seeing as I don't even have a battery in the system yet no rush on that.
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2015, 11:53 PM   #27
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
Big progress and a big "issue".

Got the grounding wire put in for the new converter, and plugged in the extension cord.

Well... the new breaker is still popping on the main circuit.

I was pretty bummed, and was about to call it quits for the night when my buddy Mike, who's visiting from out of state, suggested I run the extension cord just to the converter.

Well.... the photos tell what happened...

The 120v circuit breaker is still popping on apparently just the 120v lines, as I tested it without the converter hooked up. First thing I'm going to do is go through all the receptacles and see what kind of condition they're in. If nothing comes of that, I'm going to have to ask around on here and elsewhere for input. Hopefully it's something simple.

From testing the 12v systems, I know the water pump sounds like it's working, the fart-fan in the bathroom goes, and the refer is trying to light up on gas since it's not getting 120v (that will be a separate test soon). The water tank lights on the control panel all come on, which is odd, but nothing comes on for the black tank (which I'm hoping is a good sign).

To say this is a relief to a major extent is an understatement... now I just need to sort out the 120v system.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream_12v_test_01.jpg
Views:	46
Size:	14.1 KB
ID:	236029   Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream_12v_test_02.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	49.9 KB
ID:	236030  

Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream_12v_test_03.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	236031  
__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2015, 03:24 AM   #28
3 Rivet Member
 
flaagan's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Cupertino , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 115
Oh... and don't let the photos fool you, those are all the old-school lights. They're nowhere near as bright as the images would make you think, and will definitely be getting replaced by LED's.
__________________

__________________
MogRod: a '66 Morgan +4 resto-mod project
2014 Corvette Z51 Stingray: the daily driver
1972 Airstream Ambassador: the new toy / project!
flaagan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ambassador Kinton :: 1965 Airstream Ambassador International sckinton Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-17-2013 02:17 PM
1972 Airstream International Land Yacht Ambassador :: 1972 Airstream Ambassador airpatton Airstream Registry Discussions 0 03-22-2012 01:01 PM
Ambassador :: 1971 Airstream Ambassador nascar427 Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 11:07 PM
electrical diagram for a 1966 Ambassador 28 foot ups guy Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 2 09-10-2004 05:24 PM
What is an Ambassador Model dinoburb Airstream Trailer Forums 1 01-01-2003 08:56 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.