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Old 05-07-2012, 06:59 AM   #183
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Dutch oven

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaker63 View Post
Hey Top,
Forget about that carb, what's cookin in that dutch oven?
Tim
Hey Tim,
It was bread pudding. The cook, Kent Rollins, is an awesome cook.
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We ate very well for the whole rally!
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:43 PM   #184
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Thanks Rednax. I knew you would weigh in with some good advice.
I think I have found a local performance tuner that is up to the task. An old man named Willy. He was recommended by three different hot rodders around here.
I have read your previous post many times.
I'm wondering if I can bypass the Gear Vendors OD to move closer to the power band at 60mph. Shorter tires would help too. It just needs some tweaks for towing. It runs and drives fine in loaded.
Glad you found a reference. A QJ is really great when done well. No Holley or other comes close. Ask him about setting up the APT (part throttle adjustment). Use a vacuum gauge to get the last bit of "edge" to the tune. Your guy has to be able to dial in the timing and fuel curve together.

This page from FBO shows a standard list of items needed for sharp tuning.

Dyno numbers don't mean much . . it's about maximizing vacuum at most points on the rpm scale for towing (and without pre-ignition or detonation). Tire height, gears, TQ converter stall speed and camshaft all have to work together. When they do, it's a joy.

I don't think you need the GV. They're really expensive . . for that money I'd rather have an all genuine Chevrolet parts suspension/front end rebuild (plus bigger FF & RR anti-roll bars). A set of brakes from PRAISE DYNO (and learn how to adjust the rear drums monthly). Then a set of BRIDGESTONE r500 & m700 FF/RR tires in stock size. BILSTEIN or KONI shocks. Zero steering slop. Might could do all this for the cost of a GV installed by someone else (as it's around $4000).

I enjoyed all the pics, above. Look forward to meeting you and yours sometime. I learnt a bit of Dutch Oven style cooking in Boy Scouts oh so many years ago, and it's a promise to myself to learn from other RV'ers and especially A/S and VK owners in times to come.

.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:46 PM   #185
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Thanks REDNAX,
I probably don't NEED the Gear Vendors OD, but I already HAVE it. It was on the truck when I bought it.
So what what would the stock tire size be? It previously had 9.50x16.5 bias ply tires. It now rides on LT265-75-16LRE. I think LT 245/75/16 would get an inch less of tire 25 revs per mile and LT 225/75/16 would drop two inches of diameter and 50 revs per mile.
Willy was described to me as the vacuum gauge guru.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:34 PM   #186
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Well, there are a lot of windows in a 1972 Ambassador. Today i successfully removed all the old Vulchem and did a little polishing around the frame and re sealed with Sikkaflex 221 ONE window! It took about five hours. Here's what the old stuff looked like..Attachment 117519Attachment 117520

And when I had it all cleaned ready to apply Sikkaflex...
Attachment 117521Attachment 117522Attachment 117523
Attachment 117524

I then taped it up so I didn't get it all over the place..
Attachment 117526Attachment 117527
Her's what the final sealant looked like. If it leaks, uh...well I'll just have to live with it!
Attachment 117528Attachment 117529
one of your old posts: Looks like you just "sanded" the old volkem off, or did you find some other/better way to remove it??

thanks again,
Richard & Della
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:47 PM   #187
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Hey Della,
No, no sanding. Since this was very early on in my learning, I thought it was Vulkem. I was not, it was Parbond. I used a heat gun to soften it up, then scraped the big chunks off with a plastic scraper. I then took a 90 degree pick and picked out all of the old sealant, dirt and gunk from the seam. Be very careful when you do this so you don't scratch the trailer skin, or poke yourself and bleed profusely. Then I cleaned it all up with MEK. I like the way MEK works on Parbond. It seems to be the only thing that will take Parbond off. I don't use Parbond. It does not hold up well to UV. I then did a little polishing before I used the Sikkaflex 221. That was one of the only places I've used Sikka 221. It is cracking and I don't think it is nearly as good of a sealant as TremPro 626 or 635. My favorite Polyurethane sealant so far is 3M 540. It is about 50% more expensive than TremPro 626 and 635.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:18 AM   #188
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I know this is off subject, but does anyone know someone who is interested in a David Winick, 75th Anniversary 19', if so call me at 501-944-6817.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:37 PM   #189
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I know this is off subject, but does anyone know someone who is interested in a David Winick, 75th Anniversary 19', if so call me at 501-944-6817.
Probably best to post this in the airclassifieds.

Steve
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:02 PM   #190
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So what what would the stock tire size be? It previously had 9.50x16.5 bias ply tires. It now rides on LT265-75-16LRE. I think LT 245/75/16 would get an inch less of tire 25 revs per mile and LT 225/75/16 would drop two inches of diameter and 50 revs per mile.
Willy was described to me as the vacuum gauge guru.


Sorry to be slow in reply.

Looks like 32" tires were stock offerings on C20's

Another source:

" . . either 7.50 on 16 inch split rims, or 8.50 on a 16.5 inch rim".

I'd avoid too narrow (75 aspect and up). Modern trucks use 70's if not lower. Luxury cars were using 75's through the 1970's (32-psi) when Mercedes had gone to 65-series tires.

A 70 in something like the correct height (a touch lower would be preferable to taller) would be best all around (on unpaved, as well as for highway mpg, not to mention suspension compliance). Handling & braking will be "best", IMO, when one does stray far from the reservation. Adjusting the steering gear, getting alignment spot on, etc, . . all are "easier" when within stock spec range (not to mention no interference issues). Bearings, etc, also have an easier life.

Some investigation of the wheels manufacturer (weight rating not always available on component) to be sure that offset is correct or darned close to it. If they are kept then tires of a particular size will work best with a particular wheel rim width. A good match is mandatory, IMO.

Be vigilant about wheel cracks. Plenty of good choices if the wheels are kaput.

Michelin is tops, but their "bargain" tire, BFGoodrich, has the Commercial T/A line. A guy parked next to me this month has them on his DODGE CTD DRW. Look good, and a good rep (also for your trailer; see thread by Bob Thompson).

Bridgestone is also tops (see post above) and sells the bargain Firestone Transforce, another popular truck and trailer tire.

IMO, there is never a disappointment with the best, or very best, tires. Nor should there be with these barely second tier choices (time in service over miles travelled would make them my choice for a work truck).

.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:08 PM   #191
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Thanks REDNAX. I always appreciate your thoughtful replies.
The wheels and tires ere put on the truck last September, so they are nearly new. I'll keep an eye out for cracks in the wheels.
I did make a run to DFW last week and got 14 MPG average running 65 MPH. I was happy to see that.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:42 PM   #192
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The rusty tongue

Well it has been a while since any work (attention) on Abby has been worthy of posting. Here is something.
I have always "been gonna" (an actual phrase) get Abby's tongue sandblasted and painted. Since dznf0g posted about his tongue work and Casa3805 has a nice tongue, this week was the week to move from "been gonna" to git'r done.
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Sandblasting goes quickly with the big equipment. I think it took them about one hour to blast the tongue and all the hitch parts.
I towed Abby back to the shop and applied two coats of POR 15 with a brush. I was pleasantly surprised at the results. It went on very smoothly with a foam brush.
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I have POR Sterling Silver to top coat. Maybe some pictures of that tomorrow evening and the start of polishing. Yes, polishing. I know it is crazy and it will take me hours and hours and hours but, gotta do it.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:42 PM   #193
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Wow,looks better than new.I bet the silver top coat will really be nice! The polishing is addicting but be prepared to be sore all over.
Have fun!
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:19 PM   #194
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The beginning of a very long row to hoe

Well. Polishing is a dirty, dirty, job.
I'm using a treated airway wheel and black bar (caswell) on a DeWalt polisher.
It seems to be slow going on the first cut, but the results are pretty good.
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I also put the two coats of POR Sterling Silver top coat on the tongue.
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I figure I'll be done polishing in about a year.
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:36 PM   #195
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Wow! That's looking awesome for a first pass! Are u using the vented yellow wheel or? Just keep chanting " Gotta do it. gotta do it!"

Nice work as usual!
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:02 PM   #196
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Looks good....a suggestion....start high because you will have electrical cable drag marks on the polished areas if you start low.
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