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Old 09-11-2010, 12:33 PM   #85
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Kaydee I don't mean to burst you bubble wrap but did you leave an airspace behind your insulation or is it right against the inside of the outer skin. This type of insulation works best if installed with a air space between the shell and the insulation. This way the heat is kept between shell and insulation and not transfered to the interior. Do a google search here for produx insulation and look at what others have done to achieve this air gap. Most have used rigid styrofoam cut into strips and glued to the skins and then glue the insulation to the strips and seal all edges with aluminum foil tape. Your frame work looks great. My new frame is almost built and I will be tackling the POR-15 next.
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Old 09-11-2010, 04:00 PM   #86
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Wow. This stuff works great.
I figure I can complete most of the frame this fall.
The rest of it will have to wait until next spring.
I definetly see an advantage to removing the shell.
Im just running out of time with winter coming.
Plan is to remove the shell in the spring.
The window gaskets and roof vent gaskets have arrived.
Yippe, thanks Inland.
Double up the number of rivets holding the shell to the front plate.

That will save you some work, that you would probably encounter in the future.

Andy
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Old 09-11-2010, 04:24 PM   #87
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Nope I did not put an air gap between the outter wall and the first layer of bubble wrap. However, I plan on installing a gap between the next layer.
It's certainly not too late. Live and learn.
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:13 PM   #88
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Nope I did not put an air gap between the outter wall and the first layer of bubble wrap. However, I plan on installing a gap between the next layer.
It's certainly not too late. Live and learn.
Ah yes, live and learn, especially while your enjoying dessert.

And then..............there's Airstreaming.

What would we do without it???

Andy
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:25 PM   #89
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I am planning to use this insulation in my forever airstream, and I am planning to use two layers - one close to the outer skin and one close to the inner skin. I plan to have a quarter/half/quarter ratio to the gaps.

|__|____|__|

This provides a good R value, and provides the best radiant and convection barrier by lowering the temperature differentials between the layers. A 160F skin and a 90F inner wall with a 76F air temperature maintained indoors means the radiant barrier is a single boundary to a 70F temperature difference in free air. By having two barriers, each cell has a 35F temperature difference, which about quarters the convection transfer.

I made a mock-up and left it in full sun 2 yrs ago, and it made a substantial difference to the shady side temperature. I should repeat it and make a video...

*grins* Hmmm... "Renovation Labs!" I should test all the theories and see what works and what doesn't, like the great polishing/waxing thread!
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:02 PM   #90
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Hi, About the rear end seperation. After you install a new floor, make sure you have no water leaks; then use GE Silicon 11 sealer and place a thick aluminum fish plate where it was previously bolted to the floor Re-drill and use Stainless Steel bolts to draw it together with large washers below and you will not have to worry about seperation. It was an engineering blunder by not having strong enough aluminum channel in the first place and with the most likely water damage destroying the plywood the bolts just pulled through and there is your seperation. It is basically a water damage situation. WATER PROOF. Underneath the outside aluminum trim on the end is where the water gets in and no one can see it without taking the riveted trim off. Bye, Chuck (Fiddler)
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:03 AM   #91
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Insulation??

Your insulation ideas sound great. What brand do you like?
How does one maintain the center air gap between the inner and outer layers of insulation?
Does the center air space between the outer skin and inner skin vent out anywhere?

Keep up the good work, before you know it you will be on the road.
Just thinking of Willie Nelson singing "On The Road Again."
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:00 PM   #92
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In my little test, I used generic bubble cell barrier, and spaced it with strips of foam from a 4x8 sheet. The air should not be able to circulate between the layers easily, so I didn't make any vent system.
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:49 PM   #93
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Spring 2011

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Old 06-12-2011, 01:56 PM   #94
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sping 2011

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My goal for the summer is to finish the frame.
I love the POR 15 - good stuff.
Note to self * dont forget to wear those gloves!*
Ive got the frame secured up on blocks.
A carpenter is coming to help me put in more bracing.
I need (2ea) 5ft long, 5" wide piece of steel to weld (and bolt) in the back. Not sure of the thickness yet. Any recommendations will be helpfull.
Anxious to get the flooring down.
I just bought (2ea) 5/8" plywood to get me started....
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:34 PM   #95
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:09 PM   #96
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Ive got 4 bottle jacks holding up the rear end.
Managed to get 2 tires off in this heat. Will probably get the other 2 off
this eve when the sun is going down...
Im definetly going to need a few more bottle jacks.
I've got 8ea 2x4x10 -ready to go.
The welder dude was supposed to show up today, sigh...
Need to order some new out-riggers. I found them online last night
for about $20 each.
The tires have really good tread, unfortunatly they are dry rotted.
I beat the snot out of the POR 15 paint can lid, hope its OK and hasnt dried up in the can...
Need to take a better pic(s) of the anxels to ensure I get the right
ones someday....maybe next summer.
The shell is pretty forgiving when lifted.
Having trouble getting the wheel wheels off. fun fun!!
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:19 PM   #97
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Talking

Just joined up today and just completed reading your entire thread! Any news???
I just got back from Afghan myself and Dad has a 29 or 31 in his yard someone is asking him if he wants to sell so he asked if I wanted it. Center bath, complete cept the rear bed area is gutted. Floor maybe? I'll have to ask him. Thanks for all the pics and good info.
"Riveting!!!"
Regards
Mike Trimmier
Beaufort SC
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:55 AM   #98
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how to replace black water tank it dropped down 1971 29 ft ambassdor
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