1971 29 ft Ambassador

[kaydee]

It's getting there....Still deciding on wether to do a frame off restoration.

[moparjohn]

Kaydee, I'm awstruck, you started out so inocently, and now your into it full bore, I am truley impresssed. I have recently purchased a 73 Tradewind, with a little floor rot (front of door/underfridge, and under counter in bath-right next to wall) I am hoping to repair these correctly, but without the complete redo you are doing. I am sure with this forums help I can do my floors, as I am sure you will have a beautiful Airstream when you are done. I have a good friend in Maine, in Friendship, near Darimascotia, if you are close maybe I can swing by tyo see your work, I hope to visit in Oct. MPJ

[Fiddler]

Hi Kaydee,

My wife purchased my Airstream Oct. of 2008 for $500. for a winter project for me. We live in Pulaski, NY 13142 at 164 Hager Dr.; North country. It took me 18 months to completely renovate it $12,000. dollars later. Seemd like 10 years with all the work non-stop. After looking at the new Airstreams and how they don't lamaniate the inside panneling, etc. etc. I feel that the older ones are by far the better units.

To start, I figured the suspension if one of the primary and first things to doing a safe and complete restoration so I orderd the complete assembly brand new; Torsion bar Axles with hubs, shocks, brakes, and related hardware. Next did numerous repairs to the exterrior to make the unit sealed from rain and weather. Then I just started from the front and worked to the back. Raised the front seats and table 3 1/2" (thickness of a 2"X4") Takeing them into my shop and rebuilding by replaceing the thin 1/4" panneling with 1/2". Orderd extra firm 4" foam rubber for seats and backs, and reupholsterd with new fabric. In addition where the table mounts in the front I removed the alum. pannel and placed 3/4" plywood behind that so the table mount is real solidly fastened. Of course I addressed several other issues at the same time associated with the wireing in that area as I run new wire from there to the brake system and put a new pig tail to connect to the tow vehicle. From there I removed the heater and rebuilt it in my shop, running it and checking all systems on my bench. As I went along I replaced any areas of the 3/4" floor plywood that had rot from past water leaks. I riped out all the old pluming other than the two copper lines that go from the front to the back and replaced with plastic. Took the entire kitchen assembly into my shop and rebuilt, using again 1/2" plywood to replace the 1/4" plywood shelves. Threw out the old oven and replaced with a microwave, leaving room underneath for extra counter space. Replaced the counter stove with a 3 burner unit. Rebuilt ALL 12 VD/C sws. and kitchen exhaust fan mtr. All new window screens and outside rubber seals to include all pannels. Rebuilt the converter and sound proofed and vented the compartment relocating the battery in the same compartment with a batt. disconnect sw. inside and above in the closet. In the bottom of the closet on the other side adjacent to where the water heater is located I put a compartment to hold the external power cord that can now be drawn out to connect to external power which worked extremly easily since the power pannel it right next to the closet. Completely riped out the bathroom and re-designed a more servicable and user friendly system. I shortened the shelf assy. where the toilet exhaust fan was located by about 5" so as to allow comfortable room around the toilet. Oh yea I replace the old holding tank with a new 45 gallon tank that just fit between the frame. I sent design specifications to the company and had it built to my specifications; everything was complied with well and had no problems with installation. A little hint here is to remove the back bumper storage compartment and build your own, leaving the area open where the holding tank valve is. I installed a floating hard wood floor. Power vents front and rear and elimimated the center vent. Power D/C antenna W/ flat screen TV/ DVD/C/D player. New Carrier A/C. Honda 3,000 120 VAC portable gen. Raised the two beds 3 1/2" and again replaced the cheap 1/4" panneling with 1/2"; by raising the beds I was now able to put 6" fiber glass insulaton in covering the wheel wells to eliminate cold and heat transfeer. The vinal coated panneling cleans up extremly easy with Dawn dish liquid and if you touch up all the rivits with matching paint, WOW what a difference. Replaced all exterrior lights with the new LED units. Im tired of typeing. By and have a good day.
Chuck

[kaydee]

Wow. This stuff works great.
I figure I can complete most of the frame this fall.
The rest of it will have to wait until next spring.
I definetly see an advantage to removing the shell.
Im just running out of time with winter coming.
Plan is to remove the shell in the spring.
The window gaskets and roof vent gaskets have arrived.
Yippe, thanks Inland.

[wasagachris]

Kaydee I don't mean to burst you bubble wrap but did you leave an airspace behind your insulation or is it right against the inside of the outer skin. This type of insulation works best if installed with a air space between the shell and the insulation. This way the heat is kept between shell and insulation and not transfered to the interior. Do a google search here for produx insulation and look at what others have done to achieve this air gap. Most have used rigid styrofoam cut into strips and glued to the skins and then glue the insulation to the strips and seal all edges with aluminum foil tape. Your frame work looks great. My new frame is almost built and I will be tackling the POR-15 next.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by kaydee

Wow. This stuff works great.
I figure I can complete most of the frame this fall.
The rest of it will have to wait until next spring.
I definetly see an advantage to removing the shell.
Im just running out of time with winter coming.
Plan is to remove the shell in the spring.
The window gaskets and roof vent gaskets have arrived.
Yippe, thanks Inland.

Double up the number of rivets holding the shell to the front plate.

That will save you some work, that you would probably encounter in the future.

Andy

[kaydee]

Nope I did not put an air gap between the outter wall and the first layer of bubble wrap. However, I plan on installing a gap between the next layer.
It's certainly not too late. Live and learn.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by kaydee

Nope I did not put an air gap between the outter wall and the first layer of bubble wrap. However, I plan on installing a gap between the next layer.
It's certainly not too late. Live and learn.

Ah yes, live and learn, especially while your enjoying dessert.

And then..............there's Airstreaming.

What would we do without it???

Andy

[Dave Park]

I am planning to use this insulation in my forever airstream, and I am planning to use two layers - one close to the outer skin and one close to the inner skin. I plan to have a quarter/half/quarter ratio to the gaps.

|__|____|__|

This provides a good R value, and provides the best radiant and convection barrier by lowering the temperature differentials between the layers. A 160F skin and a 90F inner wall with a 76F air temperature maintained indoors means the radiant barrier is a single boundary to a 70F temperature difference in free air. By having two barriers, each cell has a 35F temperature difference, which about quarters the convection transfer.

I made a mock-up and left it in full sun 2 yrs ago, and it made a substantial difference to the shady side temperature. I should repeat it and make a video...

*grins* Hmmm... "Renovation Labs!" I should test all the theories and see what works and what doesn't, like the great polishing/waxing thread!

[Fiddler]

Hi, About the rear end seperation. After you install a new floor, make sure you have no water leaks; then use GE Silicon 11 sealer and place a thick aluminum fish plate where it was previously bolted to the floor Re-drill and use Stainless Steel bolts to draw it together with large washers below and you will not have to worry about seperation. It was an engineering blunder by not having strong enough aluminum channel in the first place and with the most likely water damage destroying the plywood the bolts just pulled through and there is your seperation. It is basically a water damage situation. WATER PROOF. Underneath the outside aluminum trim on the end is where the water gets in and no one can see it without taking the riveted trim off. Bye, Chuck (Fiddler)

[fastrob]

Your insulation ideas sound great. What brand do you like?
How does one maintain the center air gap between the inner and outer layers of insulation?
Does the center air space between the outer skin and inner skin vent out anywhere?

Keep up the good work, before you know it you will be on the road.
Just thinking of Willie Nelson singing "On The Road Again."

[Dave Park]

In my little test, I used generic bubble cell barrier, and spaced it with strips of foam from a 4x8 sheet. The air should not be able to circulate between the layers easily, so I didn't make any vent system.

[ssgkboo]

[ssgkboo]

My goal for the summer is to finish the frame.
I love the POR 15 - good stuff.
Note to self * dont forget to wear those gloves!*
Ive got the frame secured up on blocks.
A carpenter is coming to help me put in more bracing.
I need (2ea) 5ft long, 5" wide piece of steel to weld (and bolt) in the back. Not sure of the thickness yet. Any recommendations will be helpfull.
Anxious to get the flooring down.
I just bought (2ea) 5/8" plywood to get me started....

[ssgkboo]

[ssgkboo]

Ive got 4 bottle jacks holding up the rear end.
Managed to get 2 tires off in this heat. Will probably get the other 2 off
this eve when the sun is going down...
Im definetly going to need a few more bottle jacks.
I've got 8ea 2x4x10 -ready to go.
The welder dude was supposed to show up today, sigh...
Need to order some new out-riggers. I found them online last night
for about $20 each.
The tires have really good tread, unfortunatly they are dry rotted.
I beat the snot out of the POR 15 paint can lid, hope its OK and hasnt dried up in the can...
Need to take a better pic(s) of the anxels to ensure I get the right
ones someday....maybe next summer.
The shell is pretty forgiving when lifted.
Having trouble getting the wheel wheels off. fun fun!!

[MrTrimmier]

Just joined up today and just completed reading your entire thread! Any news???
I just got back from Afghan myself and Dad has a 29 or 31 in his yard someone is asking him if he wants to sell so he asked if I wanted it. Center bath, complete cept the rear bed area is gutted. Floor maybe? I'll have to ask him. Thanks for all the pics and good info.
"Riveting!!!"
Regards
Mike Trimmier
Beaufort SC

[r.swanson]

how to replace black water tank it dropped down 1971 29 ft ambassdor

[r.swanson]

looks like mine only in better shape good with it.