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Old 08-23-2010, 12:21 PM   #71
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We got the trailor up on ramps.
The flooring over the fresh water tank has been removed as well as the entire bathroom floor. Now the real fun begins....
It appears that the water tank get's lowered from the bottom.
I refuse to give up!
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:57 PM   #72
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Good luck with the restoration

Have one just like it. Interior in a little better shape. Check the black water tank. Mine cracked at the neck to the discharge. The plastic tank became very brittle. Replacements are available. Trick is the tank is inside a galvanized box inside the rear bellie skin. I cut the skin at the front of the frame rail and had a replacement made. Had a custome metel shop build a new box. Bellie skin + black water tank + new bottom for the bumper storage was about $450. Check out the forums for help. Lots of folks with lessons learned and pics of what they did. Helped me a bunch.
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:37 AM   #73
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Thanks Fisher. The metal box that the black water tank was in is totally corroded.
I've got a welder lined up.
I've placed an on-line inquiry to the Cal Airstream parts supplier for window gaskets.
Just waiting to hear back for availability and pricing.
The black water tank looks like it's been patched by PO. That will have to be replaced as well as the domestic water. All in all the frame doesnt look so bad, just in the rear bathroom area...
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:16 AM   #74
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Kaydee yes the fresh water tank is removed from below. In the front of the tank ther is a Z shaped bracket that is bolted to the side Z brackets. remove these two bolts to remove the front bracket. The water tank is sitting on a one inch thick piece of plywood which is on top of a sheet of aluminum. the entire piece of plywood is sealedat the edges with vulkem. release this sealant and pull the sheet forward until it is completely out. You have to support the tank at the rear while you do this so it does not fall to the ground. Inland can supply the black and fresh water tanks as well. You might want to consider adding a grey tank while you have everything apart.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:08 PM   #75
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Yes, thanks - I've been considering a gray water tank as well. Pics of the progress are incoming....
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:42 PM   #76
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:47 PM   #77
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:49 PM   #78
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:03 PM   #79
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The framing pretty much fell apart very easily under the shower area.

Some repairs are needed at the door for sure.
I never finished my bubble foil insulation before I started tackling the floor
removal, thats OK.
I was surprised to see more wiring under the floor, with a scotch lock -
wire nut making a connection. Havent followed these wires to see where they go and what they are for.
There was a lot of "yuckky yuck" under the floor. Nothing dead. No skeletons. Not sure if Im going to remove the rest of the flooring, prolly should to make it easier for clean up / re-insulating....

It appears that if you remove the flooring before you remove the belly pan - it's easier to clean up what is under that floor.

Id rather not have all the yuck falling on me.

It also seems that if Ive go this far, the best thing for this 1971 is to lift it off the frame - ive gone this far....

We did not remove the plywood flooring under most of the U-channel.
But, we will....
Were hanging in there, and having fun!!
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:10 PM   #80
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Oh, to get the water tank out, we cut the metal cross member out with a saws-all.
We did not lower it from the bottom or slide it out from the bottom.
The fresh water tank had wooden boards around its edges. These boards were not screwed or secured in any way.
The metal cross member can be welded back into place securely.

Once the framing is fixed and painted, the new floor down, I can begin the electrical.
This is the part that I am really going to enjoy doing the most.
I plan on securing / covering all copper current carrying conductors with that wire wrap, plastic spiral material.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:34 AM   #81
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As of 9-3-2010

It's getting there....Still deciding on wether to do a frame off restoration.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:26 PM   #82
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Kaydee, I'm awstruck, you started out so inocently, and now your into it full bore, I am truley impresssed. I have recently purchased a 73 Tradewind, with a little floor rot (front of door/underfridge, and under counter in bath-right next to wall) I am hoping to repair these correctly, but without the complete redo you are doing. I am sure with this forums help I can do my floors, as I am sure you will have a beautiful Airstream when you are done. I have a good friend in Maine, in Friendship, near Darimascotia, if you are close maybe I can swing by tyo see your work, I hope to visit in Oct. MPJ
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:39 AM   #83
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Hi Kaydee,

My wife purchased my Airstream Oct. of 2008 for $500. for a winter project for me. We live in Pulaski, NY 13142 at 164 Hager Dr.; North country. It took me 18 months to completely renovate it $12,000. dollars later. Seemd like 10 years with all the work non-stop. After looking at the new Airstreams and how they don't lamaniate the inside panneling, etc. etc. I feel that the older ones are by far the better units.

To start, I figured the suspension if one of the primary and first things to doing a safe and complete restoration so I orderd the complete assembly brand new; Torsion bar Axles with hubs, shocks, brakes, and related hardware. Next did numerous repairs to the exterrior to make the unit sealed from rain and weather. Then I just started from the front and worked to the back. Raised the front seats and table 3 1/2" (thickness of a 2"X4") Takeing them into my shop and rebuilding by replaceing the thin 1/4" panneling with 1/2". Orderd extra firm 4" foam rubber for seats and backs, and reupholsterd with new fabric. In addition where the table mounts in the front I removed the alum. pannel and placed 3/4" plywood behind that so the table mount is real solidly fastened. Of course I addressed several other issues at the same time associated with the wireing in that area as I run new wire from there to the brake system and put a new pig tail to connect to the tow vehicle. From there I removed the heater and rebuilt it in my shop, running it and checking all systems on my bench. As I went along I replaced any areas of the 3/4" floor plywood that had rot from past water leaks. I riped out all the old pluming other than the two copper lines that go from the front to the back and replaced with plastic. Took the entire kitchen assembly into my shop and rebuilt, using again 1/2" plywood to replace the 1/4" plywood shelves. Threw out the old oven and replaced with a microwave, leaving room underneath for extra counter space. Replaced the counter stove with a 3 burner unit. Rebuilt ALL 12 VD/C sws. and kitchen exhaust fan mtr. All new window screens and outside rubber seals to include all pannels. Rebuilt the converter and sound proofed and vented the compartment relocating the battery in the same compartment with a batt. disconnect sw. inside and above in the closet. In the bottom of the closet on the other side adjacent to where the water heater is located I put a compartment to hold the external power cord that can now be drawn out to connect to external power which worked extremly easily since the power pannel it right next to the closet. Completely riped out the bathroom and re-designed a more servicable and user friendly system. I shortened the shelf assy. where the toilet exhaust fan was located by about 5" so as to allow comfortable room around the toilet. Oh yea I replace the old holding tank with a new 45 gallon tank that just fit between the frame. I sent design specifications to the company and had it built to my specifications; everything was complied with well and had no problems with installation. A little hint here is to remove the back bumper storage compartment and build your own, leaving the area open where the holding tank valve is. I installed a floating hard wood floor. Power vents front and rear and elimimated the center vent. Power D/C antenna W/ flat screen TV/ DVD/C/D player. New Carrier A/C. Honda 3,000 120 VAC portable gen. Raised the two beds 3 1/2" and again replaced the cheap 1/4" panneling with 1/2"; by raising the beds I was now able to put 6" fiber glass insulaton in covering the wheel wells to eliminate cold and heat transfeer. The vinal coated panneling cleans up extremly easy with Dawn dish liquid and if you touch up all the rivits with matching paint, WOW what a difference. Replaced all exterrior lights with the new LED units. Im tired of typeing. By and have a good day.
Chuck
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:21 AM   #84
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Wow

Wow. This stuff works great.
I figure I can complete most of the frame this fall.
The rest of it will have to wait until next spring.
I definetly see an advantage to removing the shell.
Im just running out of time with winter coming.
Plan is to remove the shell in the spring.
The window gaskets and roof vent gaskets have arrived.
Yippe, thanks Inland.
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