1971 29 ft Ambassador

[kaydee]

I havent given up on this trailor!
It's winter in Maine and 10 below zero this morning. Too cold to be doing any work out there.
All the walls have been removed and stored.
All the old fiberglass insulation has been removed.
My next project, as soon as the weather cooperates is removing the bathroom floor and taking a look at all the welding I will have to do and inspecting the black water tank. So, now it's just dreaming and planning time.
My next big decision is what to install for insulation. Ive done a lot of research and have asked a lot of questions.
It appears that the 2 layers of bubble wrap type with aluminum foil on both sides is the way to go.
Any other suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
I also have a lot of electrical repair's (burnt wiring) and planning to do as well.

[Bowmans]

How has it been going since January Kaydee?

Looking at my other post on this forum, I realize how green I was (and probably still am)... we didn't even have Zolotone in ours, just the vinyl clad. I did end up painting ours following Andy's process of sanding/cleaning the walls well first. We used an Alkyd primer and paint using roller/brush. We finished back before winter and it is holding up well so far.

[Wabbiteer]

Prodex is a premium product - I know at -10° double-thickness bubble is tempting but it is transparent to sound! Part of the Airstream mystique is in that two-inches of fiberglass: Mats of fiberglass do a good job at damping out sounds and keeping the interior from being similar to a guitar body where every sound (indoors and out) resonates. Although Prodex is not as good as fiberglass it has up to 19dBA attenuation per layer where pure bubble has near-zero...

I know at $250+ shipped it seems a little steep ((4 ft x 175 ft (700 sq ft) roll)) but the Prodex is easy to work with - rig up a sheet plywood cutting surface and get a four-foot straight edge and sharp razor and it the rest comes easily, no leaving an extra margin for deflated bubbles on cut line, etc. and it folds and forms very nicely...

[kaydee]

The 2 wires were taped to the inner wall and were not in use.
Does anyone know what the intention or option these may have been for?

[kaydee]

Started the first layer of insulation.

[kaydee]

Yup, Im enjoying every minute of it...

[kaydee]

I better get that welder out soon.... this does not look good...

[Bowmans]

Are those green wires mid height on the walls just before one of the end cap curves start? If so, they may be speaker wires.

[kaydee]

Thanks Bowman. The wires are taped to the wall on the curb side between the last window and the start of the rear end cap.

[Bowmans]

That sounds like the speaker wires. From what I have read here, even campers without speakers were still wired for them and the wires were taped to the outside walls just as you described.

[kaydee]

We got the trailor up on ramps.
The flooring over the fresh water tank has been removed as well as the entire bathroom floor. Now the real fun begins....
It appears that the water tank get's lowered from the bottom.
I refuse to give up!

[fisherjdou]

Good luck with the restoration

Have one just like it. Interior in a little better shape. Check the black water tank. Mine cracked at the neck to the discharge. The plastic tank became very brittle. Replacements are available. Trick is the tank is inside a galvanized box inside the rear bellie skin. I cut the skin at the front of the frame rail and had a replacement made. Had a custome metel shop build a new box. Bellie skin + black water tank + new bottom for the bumper storage was about $450. Check out the forums for help. Lots of folks with lessons learned and pics of what they did. Helped me a bunch.

[kaydee]

Thanks Fisher. The metal box that the black water tank was in is totally corroded.
I've got a welder lined up.
I've placed an on-line inquiry to the Cal Airstream parts supplier for window gaskets.
Just waiting to hear back for availability and pricing.
The black water tank looks like it's been patched by PO. That will have to be replaced as well as the domestic water. All in all the frame doesnt look so bad, just in the rear bathroom area...

[wasagachris]

Kaydee yes the fresh water tank is removed from below. In the front of the tank ther is a Z shaped bracket that is bolted to the side Z brackets. remove these two bolts to remove the front bracket. The water tank is sitting on a one inch thick piece of plywood which is on top of a sheet of aluminum. the entire piece of plywood is sealedat the edges with vulkem. release this sealant and pull the sheet forward until it is completely out. You have to support the tank at the rear while you do this so it does not fall to the ground. Inland can supply the black and fresh water tanks as well. You might want to consider adding a grey tank while you have everything apart.

[kaydee]

Yes, thanks - I've been considering a gray water tank as well. Pics of the progress are incoming....

[kaydee]

[kaydee]

[kaydee]

[kaydee]

The framing pretty much fell apart very easily under the shower area.

Some repairs are needed at the door for sure.
I never finished my bubble foil insulation before I started tackling the floor
removal, thats OK.
I was surprised to see more wiring under the floor, with a scotch lock -
wire nut making a connection. Havent followed these wires to see where they go and what they are for.
There was a lot of "yuckky yuck" under the floor. Nothing dead. No skeletons. Not sure if Im going to remove the rest of the flooring, prolly should to make it easier for clean up / re-insulating....

It appears that if you remove the flooring before you remove the belly pan - it's easier to clean up what is under that floor.

Id rather not have all the yuck falling on me.

It also seems that if Ive go this far, the best thing for this 1971 is to lift it off the frame - ive gone this far....

We did not remove the plywood flooring under most of the U-channel.
But, we will....
Were hanging in there, and having fun!!

[kaydee]

Oh, to get the water tank out, we cut the metal cross member out with a saws-all.
We did not lower it from the bottom or slide it out from the bottom.
The fresh water tank had wooden boards around its edges. These boards were not screwed or secured in any way.
The metal cross member can be welded back into place securely.

Once the framing is fixed and painted, the new floor down, I can begin the electrical.
This is the part that I am really going to enjoy doing the most.
I plan on securing / covering all copper current carrying conductors with that wire wrap, plastic spiral material.