Taking the Plunge!

[RivetsforRon]

my husband and I are ready to join the club! We are looking at a 2006 23' Safari. He really likes it and so do I. But I am concerned about the door. It rattles a bit- didn't seem like a tight seal. Also te sink leaked when I turned it on at the dealer. The dealer- Southwest Coaches in Irvine CA seemed to think they could fix all that with no problem.

What's the peanut gallery think?

Thanks for any and all advice.

Ps they want 28.5k for it and it was clean but a few dings on the outside and a cabinet door that was not perfectly seated.

[TBRich]

That's a nice (and popular) AS model and floor plan... The dealer should be able and more than willing to get to the bottom of the door issues and remedy those and any other items that you find need to be dealt with... even the new ones have a few things that need to be looked at/fixed... We love our 19' SE.

[Wayne&Sam]

A 2006 may not even be off warranty yet, if so repairs wouldn't even be questioned- even if it took a trip to the factory.

[RivetsforRon]

y'all are awesome! We are so excited about getting into airstreaming and my husband really likes this floor plan the most- I was just concerned after I read so many posts on the forums here about things leaking and needing repairs. I was starting to wonder if we were getting ripped off.
1. Does the price seem right (28.5k pretaxes- after sway bar and taxes it'll be 31k)
2. Are a few minor blemishes ok in a 2006?

I am not new to buying used. Every car/truck I've owned save one very affordably priced Ranger, has been used, and I have loved everyone of them- drove 'em 'til they drop. But I have never had any problems with my used vehicles other than maintenance and the usual recall or at 125k miles a major repair or two.

My husband and I are pretty handy at repairing things around the house- so I figure why get into an apartment (have to leave the house) when I can buy an airstream and any upgrades I make I can take 'em with me

Thanks for all the positive support keep it comin' !!!!! this is such a big decision

Ron

[willyd]

You can check the website -NADA RV. This website will give you some guidelline; howevever, I understand these values are usually lower than reality.

[Al - K4GLU]

Be sure you check very closely for filiform corrosion particularly on the curved panels on the belly line both front and rear. If it has some already there is little that can be done about it and it will just get worse.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by RivetsforRon

But I am concerned about the door. It rattles a bit- didn't seem like a tight seal...

hi rivets and welcome to the forums!

many repairs issues are obvious, some aren't.

many remedies to those repair issues are straight forward, one time deals...

and some aren't.

entry door issues are neither obvious or simple and often require repeat fixes.

i have a crappy main door from 05, fixed UNDER WARRANTY (but at MY EXPENSE) several times...

it's STILL a crappy door.

in general a/s doors aren't the greatest at closing firmly or tightly, like the precise doors and seals on slab side rvs.

so you should compare this door to other a/s doors on the lot.

and determine how 'different' it is from the other 'stream entry doors.

and it's not a simple matter to replace the entry door...

EACH ONE is uniquely made, they aren't interchangeable and replacement is 4,000$++

IF the dealer can fix these issues WHY haven't they already?

it's important to understand this...

after u sign the paper work ANY problems or issues with the unit are YOURS to deal with.

before u sign/buy these issues belong to the current owner (the dealer)

so i'd suggest visiting the unit again, and spend a couple of hours going over the ENTIRE thing...

operate EVERY system, turn on/off every gadget, run water in/out of every pipe....

crawl UNDERNEATH and use a ladder to inspect the TOPSIDE...

make a LIST of everything u have concerns about and ask the dealer to FIX those things...

warranty or not, trips backnforth to get lots of little issues corrected cost YOU time and money.

Originally Posted by RivetsforRon

...this is such a big decision ...

absolutely right! and too many folks rush through the 'closing process' and regret it later.

'streaming is LOTS o FUN and 'streams is COOL looking, just be sure about which ever unit u select,

and don't hurry to spend your money. the market is VERY VERY slow now and that's in YOUR favor.

and make darn sure that entry door is right!

cheers
2air'

[RivetsforRon]

Originally Posted by willyd

You can check the website -NADA RV. This website will give you some guidelline; howevever, I understand these values are usually lower than reality.

We did check the NADA values. The NADA value was a few grand under what they are asking. The problem with NADA is that they don't do a good job of customizing the appropriate upgrades in the SE or LS packages. They just have these ckeck-boxes that are really generic to any trailer. I'm not sure what to check and what not to check. But if you check nothing you really low-ball it.

Anybody have suggestions on how to us the NADA web interface?

Thanks again for your opinions!

[bookman]

tell 'em you'll CONSIDER signing ONCE everything is FIXED, not before... if they can't/won't/don't, walk away.

[COLORADO_CAMPER]

Rivets,

Before you get too excited about the door try giving it a good slam - it probably just isn't shut tight. Unlike other brands, Airstream uses automobile quality latches and the very design of the door generally requires more effort to close than others. Every Airstream I've been in you had to slam the door to get a tight shut. Give it a try - you won't hurt anything.

Oh, and price sounds about right if everything is in functional and generally good shape.

I say buy it, use the heck out of it, take care of it and enjoy it for the next coule decades.

-Kevin

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by COLORADO_CAMPER

... Airstream uses automobile quality latches and the very design of the door generally requires more effort to close than others.
Every Airstream I've been in you had to slam the door to get a tight shut...

automotive quality latches? i'm not sure what that means,

but IF you are suggesting strong latches with safety features that prevent opening during travel...

this must be a joke.

i can certainly believe that EVERY 'stream u've been in needed the door slammed...

BUT a properly adjusted door on a level trailer, not twisted by the stabilizer jacks...

closes easily.

every door is a "one off" no 2 alike, etc...

and the hinges loosen and the door changes shape over time...

so poor closing or FIRM closing is a function of these issues,

which are common, but not because the latch is automotive quality.

a partially closing door is a different issue (imo)...

the typical factory fix is to SPRAY LUBRICANT till it oozing out of the latch and nearby rivets...

because slimy latches DO close easier..

cheers
2air'

[COLORADO_CAMPER]

Hey 2airishuman,

You can lose the attitude. My reference to the latches was with regard to their strength - meaning you shouldn't be afraid to slam the door. My experience is no less valid just because it differs from yours. From the day I took delivery of my 2004 Bambi, whichI factory ordered, I have had to slam the door to get a tight close. I have had the same experience with every other new Airstream that I have looked at since. Rivets mentioned her door was rattly and, in my opion, that could be the cause.

I'll just let you do the talking, though, since you seem to have all the answers.

[RivetsforRon]

Originally Posted by Al - K4GLU

Be sure you check very closely for filiform corrosion particularly on the curved panels on the belly line both front and rear. If it has some already there is little that can be done about it and it will just get worse.

If you don't mind me asking, what does "filiform corrosion" look like? Does anybody have a pic?

ROn

[SilverGate]

Originally Posted by RivetsforRon

If you don't mind me asking, what does "filiform corrosion" look like? Does anybody have a pic?

ROn

Well, here are the pics and 35 pages of the related thread to read...

That's one way to spend a Saturday afternoon!

[RivetsforRon]

So we WERE looking at a 2006 23' safari but that has changed. This is really a roller-coaster. We initially went there looking at a 1946 Burdette b/c we could afford the 4k and it looked light enough for a Ford Ranger to pull. The Burdette is in GREAT shape for a '46- especially on the inside, but the outside needs new paint and the old paint (probably lead) removed. WE don't have a yard to do this in, so it just wasn't gonna work out.

Then we looked around the lot and get infected with aluminitis
WE got an F150 so we could tow an airstream and became really serious about getting a TT.

The next weekend we go up to look at a 2005 19' safari- but it got sold. So we put a deposit on the 23' safari. This weekend we go up just to take a look at all the good things y'all have advised us on- and guess what!?!??? That original 19' was not sold- the financing fell through for the other guy and so we decided to change the deposit for the 19' safari. EEK!?!?!?! This is such an important decision, I feel MUCH better about the 19' safari b/c the door shuts correctly and we couldn't find anything leaking. There are two slightly darker spots on the ceiling carpet but the sales guy doubts its a leak. We'll have 'em check it out- but this is really starting to feel RIGHT!
Thanks for all your help. See 'ya on the Road!
Ron

[TBRich]

Originally Posted by RivetsforRon

So we WERE looking at a 2006 23' safari but that has changed. This is really a roller-coaster. We initially went there looking at a 1946 Burdette b/c we could afford the 4k and it looked light enough for a Ford Ranger to pull. The Burdette is in GREAT shape for a '46- especially on the inside, but the outside needs new paint and the old paint (probably lead) removed. WE don't have a yard to do this in, so it just wasn't gonna work out.

Then we looked around the lot and get infected with aluminitis
WE got an F150 so we could tow an airstream and became really serious about getting a TT.

The next weekend we go up to look at a 2005 19' safari- but it got sold. So we put a deposit on the 23' safari. This weekend we go up just to take a look at all the good things y'all have advised us on- and guess what!?!??? That original 19' was not sold- the financing fell through for the other guy and so we decided to change the deposit for the 19' safari. EEK!?!?!?! This is such an important decision, I feel MUCH better about the 19' safari b/c the door shuts correctly and we couldn't find anything leaking. There are two slightly darker spots on the ceiling carpet but the sales guy doubts its a leak. We'll have 'em check it out- but this is really starting to feel RIGHT!
Thanks for all your help. See 'ya on the Road!
Ron

Yea! You are really going to like towing the 19'...of course we are slightly skewed towards the 19'ers. And if you are more comfortable with it, then that's what you should do, right!? Congrats and keep us posted...

[RivetsforRon]

Originally Posted by TBRich

Yea! You are really going to like towing the 19'...of course we are slightly skewed towards the 19'ers. And if you are more comfortable with it, then that's what you should do, right!? Congrats and keep us posted...

Yes, we plan on doing a lot of boondocking and like the idea of being more flexible about where we can go. I will also be fulltiming it for a while as well- maybe even as long as 3 years depending on the job and what happens with my wife moving and such. I'm used to small spaces and it beats paying rent!

Thanks,
Ron

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I'm a day late and a dollar short, but I will give a few of my opinions on what I've read so far. As for an automotive type latch, I will agree that Like the Fords I've worked on, that the latch has a round striker plate and a double latching mechanism. Meaning two things: (1.) The latch locks in two steps, the second being completely closed. (2.) The latch has a top and bottom cog that surrounds the round striker plate. As compared to an ordinary house or antique RV latch that has a spring loaded tongue that slides into a square hole type striker plate.

My trailer door was hard to close and sometimes had to be slammed, more so if the trailer was tweeked. I asked for it to be adjusted, but in reality, nothing was done except maybe some useless lube. After adjusting thousands of car doors [exageration] I decided to do it myself and do it right. First off, the striker plate was too short or was hitting the inside of the latch cogs; So it needed to be spaced out. I removed the striker plate and added a flat washer to give it the needed clearance. Next the striker plate has to be at the same height as the latch; So the striker needs to move up or down to hit dead center on the latch. Next the striker needs to be adjusted inward or outward so the door will close completely and not be overly tight or loose when the latch has reached it's second click. Note: Very important message; The nut plate holding the striker plate is locked in place by a rivet. If you remove this rivet and the striker plate at the same time, the nut plate will fall inside of the body. [now you are in trouble] The hole for the striker plate, on mine was not drilled or punched out, but very crudely hogged out. I loosened the striker plate, drilled out the rivet holding the nut plate, adjusted the striker plate to a perfect position, tested several times, and finally I re-drilled the nut plate and installed a screw to hold it in place. Now my trailer door closes as good as any car door, or as good as my Lincoln or my wife's BMW. Come on by and see for yourself.

As for the purchase price, never pay what they are asking, especially now with sales so slow. Make sure everything you see is fixed before you buy it. If you fail to get the price down, make them, at least, give you the hitch, brake controller, or both installed free.

[TBRich]

P.S. You will find that wherever you go, you will get lots of lookers and unsolicited compliments...and people just walking up to you as you gas up somewhere and wanting to know all about it...How big is it, How heavy is it? How does it tow? Do you like it?...etc, etc etc...it's a hoot. (This also serves you well because it gives you incentive to keep it tidy inside so that you can show it off at a moment's notice... This has worked out well for us because with the limited space it's much roomier if it's tidy with stuff put away when you're done with it.)

[RivetsforRon]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I'm a day late and a dollar short, but I will give a few of my opinions on what I've read so far.

As for the purchase price, never pay what they are asking, especially now with sales so slow. Make sure everything you see is fixed before you buy it. If you fail to get the price down, make them, at least, give you the hitch, brake controller, or both installed free.

Thanks, all the opinions have been very helpful.

It is interesting that you mention the not paying the price they ask. We have found that the NADA value is 2k less than what the dealer is asking. That's not so bad until you figure in tax, tags, brake controller, and pre-delivery inspection- which add up to about 3k- so now we're 5k above what the bank thinks this thing is worth.
They said we were getting such a great deal that they couldn't put the brake controller, the hitch, or the install in the deal. Well the bank didn't see it that way.

What to do, oh, what to do?

We'll keep y'all posted about the deal and the dealer. If they get it right and treat us well- we'll let you know-- if not, their loss.


Rivets