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Old 08-10-2017, 04:30 AM   #21
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Preventative maintenance by the owner can detect a design flaw. Simply checking for moisture periodically could have eliminated the floor rot. Once moisture was detected, the leak could be repaired. This is not to say there isn't a design flaw.its only to point out that owner diligence can eliminate any damage.
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:48 AM   #22
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Take it over to Vinnies Airstream repair near Sacramento and he can give you some options after looking it over.

http://www.vinniesairstream.com

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Old 08-10-2017, 11:06 AM   #23
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2007 31' Classic
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Rotten floor

Contact Vinnie's Northbay AS repair in N. California.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:55 AM   #24
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Vermilion , Ohio
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I had P&S trailer in Ohio repair my rear floor rot on a 1970 airstream. They also installed a grey water tank and looked over the rest of the frame. All access was done from the bottom of the trailer. Total cost was about $3,500 about 4 years ago. I would call airstream and ask them about the repair without removing the interior. Maybe they know someone out on the west coast that is familiar with the repair.
Good Luck,
Mike
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:00 PM   #25
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1964 24' Tradewind
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Heartbroken Rear floor rot

Depending on the extent of the damage, boaters (I ) use products called "penetrating epoxies" to restore rotted wood the a rock-hard product. Two brands are "Git Rot" and "Smith's Penetrating Epoxy". Both may be available at West Marine, right there on Mill Street in Reno.
I'm in Fallon, so familiar with Reno. I was once in boating in the SanFrancisco Bay area, so am somewhat familiar with wood rot and solutions.
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:04 PM   #26
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2005 31' Classic
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I know the sick feeling...but its ok to do it from inside with the ac running. Take the bed out. Then all the carpet out from the bedroom. Where you see the screws there are beams running both directions. I redid my floor in pieces cut along the beams. You cut the new plywood around the bolts hidden under the skin. No need to remove them. A handyman could help you.
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Old 08-10-2017, 02:43 PM   #27
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1990 29' Excella
Travelers Rest , South Carolina
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...I just found out that my much loved and upgraded 1999 Safari Six Sleeper has the much dreaded rear floor rot. I have taken it to a local RV repair shop here in Reno, NV that has done some of this type of work before and was told that the cost to fix would be $7k to $10k. I simply can not afford that and I do not have a building to work in to fix it myself. So I would very much appreciate help in coming up with a value (as is) and suggestions on how to sell my baby. Baby has over $5k in upgrades such as Led lights, 3 stage converter, small fold out table, spare tire carrier, rear hitch for bikes, bathroom door extension, HDTV antenna upgrade, Dual battery setup w/ marine switch and 2 lifeline batteries - aluminum steps - and very much more. I thought that I had about 5 more years left in my ability to airstream but it seems that I just can't.
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When we bought our 1990 Excella in 2009 the PO didn't tell us about the rear floor rot, and we didn't know to look. I removed the rear bedroom myself, carefully, photographing everything and drawing pictures as well, then bought a sheet of marine grade plywood and took it to P&S Airstream Repairs in Helena, Ohio (we live in Atlanta) and they did a remarkable job and at a fair price. Then we refloored the AS with a new top vinyl wood and I put the bedroom back together.

A large expense is the labor in removing the furniture, etc and then reinstalling it. You don't need a covered building to do this, but you do need a garage to store the furniture in. Don't loose anything or let it get damaged. When you get to something that you can't find the screw location that holds something down, post on the Airforums like I did. Good Luck.
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Old 08-10-2017, 02:57 PM   #28
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1972 29' Ambassador
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I'm a big fan of the penetrating epoxies, as well. Another thought comes to mind- The bed frame could be used to fabricate a spar to hold up the rear end of the trailer. I did sort of this when I went to a mid-bath from a rear bath. I wasn't being very dainty when I ripped the old bath out, but all of that old plastic did crack very easily.

If the bathroom floor is feeling spongy, you could drill a series of holes in a pleasant pattern, and inject your penetrating epoxy. After it soaks in, shoot in rigid foam to fill up the void.

Here's my advice: take a big shot of tequila, then post some pics of the damage, tell us the exact symptoms, and start planning your next Airstream trip! Air Forums to the rescue!
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:13 PM   #29
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Lynchburg , Virginia
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Vich

Sorry about your infamous rear floor rot courtesy of Air Stream.

Lots of good advice given, but Shacksman knows his stuff and has the same model so I concur with him. Now all you have to do is find somebody experienced that can fix it properly for a reasonable some. I realize that is no easy task. Maybe take some photos with the carpet taken up and post these.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:18 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by dcasr View Post


A large expense is the labor in removing the furniture, etc and then reinstalling it. You don't need a covered building to do this, but you do need a garage to store the furniture in. Don't loose anything or let it get damaged. When you get to something that you can't find the screw location that holds something down, post on the Airforums like I did. Good Luck.
(Banging hand to forehead.) Why didn't I think of this....
....

Agreed. My receipt shows a significant amount of time for removing and reinstalling the bathroom, and partial bedroom, pieces.
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:00 AM   #31
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Dumb question. Is this still a problem with the new trailers?
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:09 AM   #32
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1981 31' Excella II
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Well I think they have made some improvements but it is still something that needs to be monitored. The plate at the back is only the biggest source of leaks but not the only source of leaks.

Perry

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Dumb question. Is this still a problem with the new trailers?
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Old 08-11-2017, 05:57 PM   #33
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I have had success extending the life of a rotten floor with a product called Rot Doctor and then laying fiberglass and epoxy over the area to give it some strength.


Not new, but workable and keeps a trailer useful.

Find the leak and re-seal the trailer, patch the floor, and have fun for several more years.

Cars need tires, brakes, and oil changes.

Trailers need caulking and sealing.

Even Airstreams.

Covered storage helps a lot.




Regards,

JD
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:19 PM   #34
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1981 31' Excella II
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We don't even know what we are looking at. The damage might be repairable from the bottom without removing the bathroom etc. How did you determine it was rotten? It looks good from the outside.

Perry
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:17 AM   #35
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Perry - I pulled up some carpet by the rear hatch. I was able to see that is was rotten for at least 4 to 6 inches. I then pulled up the bed and some more carpet and took it to Paramount RV here in Reno. Since then I have installed a plywood patch over the worst of what I could get to. I can not get the carpet up going towards the shower because of the wall next to the shower.

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Old 08-12-2017, 08:34 AM   #36
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1981 31' Excella II
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Yeah but you could get to it from underneath. The main thing is that the bolts along the back and the frame rails are still intact. Getting soaked insulation out and fixing the leak at the back would be my first priority. That section between the frame rails at the back is the most important for structural integrity. Holes are not such a big deal. Wedging something like new wood, a metal spacer etc between the c-channel and the cross beam between the frame rails will keep the connection tight. There might be enough wood there already if you can keep it from rotting further. Where are the holding tanks on this trailer? Are they in the center near the axles? If that is the case most of the weight is further forward.

Perry
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:44 AM   #37
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I was at the factory the entire time our 2014 Classic was being built in January 2014. When I got to the area where the plywood for the floors is assembled/glued into a big piece every day, there was a chap whose job was to paint the edge and about 3" in from the edge with a black substance. I presume it was to be an edge sealer.

That chap needed to be fired, plain and simple. He would smear a single brush stroke for 7 or 8 feet and one could still see the white of the plywood. Same total lack of care putting it on the edge of the plywood. So the first line of defense in case of a small leak was non-existent.

The operative phase read here many times is not if there will be a leak but when.

So yes, new Airstreams still leak and have floor issues as a result. The rot takes some time to happen, but repeated water exposure does the job.

To cut costs (really at $150,000 list for the same Classic trailer mechanical body and frame that was $97,000 in 2014) they are still using plywood for the floor when there are synthetic products, while more expensive, that would never rot.

The shop that did all of our extensive upgrades to both the Classic and the 23D also does frame off work where the finished unit contains only the original shell, everything else from the ground up is new. So he has the capability to even re-skin a panel and is an authorized Airstream warranty and repair ship.

A&P Vintage Trailer Works in Paradise, TX about 35 miles Northwest of Dallas/Ft Worth airport. Paul Mayeux can be contacted at (817) 919-3651 or paul@apvintagetrailerworks.com.

He has done many of the rear end repairs over the years.

While not cheap, from personal experience, he really stands behind his work.
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