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Old 11-16-2007, 10:31 PM   #29
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I also saw it the problem is that my bank will not lend for RVs that don't have a value on nada and 1989 is the oldest year on nada for airstream. So it is just one year out of my reach. Money is a big factor in what I can do.
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:47 PM   #30
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I feel your pain

I will keep looking for ya....If I see something down this way, I will let you know. I remember how much fun it was to pull my first AS home...Even though the brakes didn't work and I almost found out too late. Man those were the good ol' days.
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Old 11-16-2007, 11:13 PM   #31
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Thanks although I have to get one already road worthy thats for sure.
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:25 AM   #32
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Before you start tearing stuff apart looking for the leak, open that window and clean the gasket and it's sealing surface and then close it and maybe even adjust the latches to pull it a little tighter and check with a water hose to see if it's still there.
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Old 11-17-2007, 11:37 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusty
Before you start tearing stuff apart looking for the leak, open that window and clean the gasket and it's sealing surface and then close it and maybe even adjust the latches to pull it a little tighter and check with a water hose to see if it's still there.
Agreed. Also, you probably don't want a dealer unaccustomed to working on Airstreams trying to fix yours (they're liable to try glopping silicone hither and yon, creating an even larger problem down the road). You can get window gasket material as well as the compartment gasket material by the foot from your local Airstream dealer. Had to re-do all the compartments on my '94 - they were pretty well shot.
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Old 11-17-2007, 01:50 PM   #34
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Congrats

Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne.yl
Yes I am the new owner and I hope it was a good purchase.
I am still working with them on fixing the leak in the rear storage compartment. They seem cooperative but not very knowledgable.
WE will see how it goes.
Wayne
In San Antonio I quit using our 'Airstream dealer' a couple of years ago because they didn't seem to know what they were doing. I now have a RV repair mechanic who is just awesome! Even though they don't sell Airstreams I usually see 3-4 of them in their lot.

We went from a '75 31ft Excella to our '90 34ft Excella 1000. Wow what a difference. No more veneer but real wood. We've put in a new AC, new fridge and I've had a couple of water leaks that were easily fixed.

One thing you will note about the 34 is that AS put in a 13.5 BTU AC unit, which doesn't quite do the job on our hot Texas summer days. We replaced the unit with a 15k Carrier low profile unit and its night and day differnt (cooler).

Good luck!
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Old 11-17-2007, 04:23 PM   #35
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Wayne,

Dave's right about getting new gaskets for the windows and the compartment doors. Tip you might try after cleaning the existing gaskets is to rub baby oil on them. It reenergizes them if they are not completely dried out and falling apart. I use it one my old cars as well as the coach and it does help keep them pliable.

Ross
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Old 11-18-2007, 12:50 AM   #36
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silicone and gaskets

Thanks fellas,
I called the dealer to confirm what their approach was toward fixing the leak.
I too had misgivings about silicone globbed all over the rear of the coach.
He assured me that they were going to inspect the gaskets on the compartment door and the rear window first before they looked elsewhere for the leak. I told him I didn't want any silicone on the trailer anywhere and he said fine. He said they would let me know when they found the leak.
I hope they find it and its an easy fix.
Thanks again for the helpful advice.
I will keep you posted.
Wayne
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:07 AM   #37
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1977 31' Sovereign
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update on the "New" 34fter rear trunk leak

I guess this really should be a question for flooring or leaks. Please forgive me for posting it in the wrong place.
Attached are pictures of the rear trunk and the water stained flooring I refered to earlier in this thread. I am quite disappointed that a 2-3inch piece of OSB flooring is spliced in at the rear of this trailer. I can't imagine why a whole piece is not used. I assume one piece would aid in stability. My question is whether this spliced piece of flooring could be part of the reason there is a leak back there?
Thanks for any help,
Wayne
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:21 AM   #38
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While the first assumption would be the rear compartment door look at the piece of sheet metal that goes under the banana strip from the top of the rear bumper compartment. That metal goes into the trailer directly onto the top of the floor. Design stupidity feature. If the sealant between it and the banana strip has failed water will run directly in and on the floor. It is common to find the factor construction plastic still over the rug in areas under cabinets and the bed. That plastic keeps any water that comes in as noted above from ever evaporating and the strand board that is used for the floor will soften once wetted.

I would not let a SOB dealer repair this because of the way the floor is fitted into the floor channel. The floor is a strutural part of the trailer. A quick fix could be worst than no fix.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:42 AM   #39
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You will want to repair the 2 exhaust vent at the top of the trailer.
The rubber gaskets inside should be replaced every 3yrs approx.
If you don't ,water will run inside the trailer.
Andy has emphasized this many times before!!!
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:49 AM   #40
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You might want to have that trailer checked with the Seal tech 430r
water leak test unit. This unit is awesome to find water leaks.
It pressurizes the cabin and after applying a soapy solution will
find the leak. Most reputable rv repair shops will have this unit!!
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