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Old 09-24-2013, 08:22 PM   #29
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Airstream Vintage 1972 25 foot

We went to see it before we knew anything. He doesn't show that in his listing, of course. It looks and feels great. He was running one of those plug-ins and smelled overly perfumed. Will need to go back with a screwdriver and also take a look under. There was a little bit of mice droppings. Is there any Airstream that won't have mice droppings? I've looked at 3 and they've all had it to some degree.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:10 PM   #30
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Is this TW different then the one referenced in the original post? This one looks pretty clean, at least superficially. Lot's of sobering wisdom on this forum, after getting 80% through a total restoration of a 72 Tradewind, I would say everything posted should be weighed and considered carefully.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:22 AM   #31
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So this is the one with the caulk job? orig counters?!? okay I have been in a few so use that screw driver and no mice can be an issue but not always. My 2 cents I told you that the 73 overlander in mn was nice and that only meant that the shell was good and it had all of its orig stuff. he had two prices on this one 9000 obo at the bottom and 8500 on the top which is a little high for a 3 to 4K Airstream! Check the value for trade in I (was about to put sexest comment but thought better) I am learning! If it is 41 years old with no renovation and has been used once or twice and has not been kept in a enviormently controlled storage facility that baby has a few issues and judging from the caulk it has softness and mold in the pink stuff (insulation) just my opinion. besides mn would be a nice drive. lol (she would kill me if I bought that overlander)
Cliff
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:39 AM   #32
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This is a different TW than the original post. Yes, this is the one with the bad caulk job. He said he lowered the price to $8500. Cliff, so you're saying based on the overall original, clean condition of the interior, but considering what the caulk job is hiding, you think this is a 3-4k trailer? If he doesn't sell it by the weekend, we'll possibly take our trusty screwdriver to visit it on Saturday.

Walls were clean...overall clean feeling inside. Exterior has that caulk and also looks sunburned on top (????). Need to check windows but I'm pretty sure they were fine. Most outside lights worked. A/c blew cold, then hot when switched. Vents blew but didn't have propane hooked up so it wasn't hot (how many people take their own propane to check out a trailer?! Can I switch out my BBQ one on an AS??). Carpeting looks vintage but I doubt it's original - felt too clean and didn't match upholstery. How do you check water system? Ask seller to hook up a hose?

Googling the drive to MN...
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:16 PM   #33
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Good on you by the time that you purchase one everybody will be asking you! Panels are more than likely a poor recaulk job (hiding a leak) you will know more in the light. As for if he still has it he may or someone who does no research or has too much money may buy it, not a good reason to make a bad choice. Depending on your plans you are really in need of a good shell with all of the attachments intact. We removed the Fiberglas insulation and are replacing prodex and foam board for under the floor. It is the same case for the 73 overlander in mn. Do NOT make a counter offer until after the inspection. Did you download and print the inspection checklist? Things you will have to do. Recaulk, window seals, plumbing and possibly floor repair or replace. From the way you are writing you plan to make it your own so take that into consideration. The sunburn is the clear coat peeling. Keep us in the loop please we are enjoying your adventure. Oh and I have been called some names like crook and ripoff for offering a realistic price not a stupid one and those trailers are still sitting there 1.5 years later!
Cliff
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:21 PM   #34
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What do you guys think about the one in the classifieds from Virginia: 1965 Airstream Tradewind 24í - Virginia
I'd go along with the "fair" condition. Would need to see more larger photos, but from what I can see, it does have issues. May be worth the money if there isnt much floor damage or equipment that doesnt work.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:27 PM   #35
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Airstream Vintage 1972 25 foot

We went to see it before we knew anything. He doesn't show that in his listing, of course. It looks and feels great. He was running one of those plug-ins and smelled overly perfumed. Will need to go back with a screwdriver and also take a look under. There was a little bit of mice droppings. Is there any Airstream that won't have mice droppings? I've looked at 3 and they've all had it to some degree.
This one doesnt look too bad from the photos, am I correct this is the one with the caulking on the back? That may not be a total show stopper, those seams are easy enough to seal up with some acryl or parbond after you scrape the old caulk off. BTW, never use silicone caulk on aluminum. Only use a polyurethane sealant.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:08 PM   #36
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This is a different TW than the original post. Yes, this is the one with the bad caulk job. He said he lowered the price to $8500. Cliff, so you're saying based on the overall original, clean condition of the interior, but considering what the caulk job is hiding, you think this is a 3-4k trailer? If he doesn't sell it by the weekend, we'll possibly take our trusty screwdriver to visit it on Saturday.

Walls were clean...overall clean feeling inside. Exterior has that caulk and also looks sunburned on top (????). Need to check windows but I'm pretty sure they were fine. Most outside lights worked. A/c blew cold, then hot when switched. Vents blew but didn't have propane hooked up so it wasn't hot (how many people take their own propane to check out a trailer?! Can I switch out my BBQ one on an AS??). Carpeting looks vintage but I doubt it's original - felt too clean and didn't match upholstery. How do you check water system? Ask seller to hook up a hose?

Googling the drive to MN...
Far and away the biggest job and headache is rebuilding the rear frame and putting in replacement plywood. I think you can almost guarantee that if the plywood is badly decomposed, the frame will need to be rebuilt in the rear. You won't know that until you disassemble. Also if there was a lot of electrolysis, you might see that as the belly pan badly corroded near the rivets.

Also you might take a flashlight and look in the bottom of the bathroom cabinet posterior of the Univolt inverter. You should be able to view that corner anyway.

I will be posting my frame rebuild soon if interested.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:39 PM   #37
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Forgot that you had also ask about rodents and they will get into a trailer if it is sitting long enough! Probably climbed in on the gas line.
Cliff
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:05 PM   #38
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Good on you by the time that you purchase one everybody will be asking you! Panels are more than likely a poor recaulk job (hiding a leak) you will know more in the light. As for if he still has it he may or someone who does no research or has too much money may buy it, not a good reason to make a bad choice. Depending on your plans you are really in need of a good shell with all of the attachments intact. We removed the Fiberglas insulation and are replacing prodex and foam board for under the floor. It is the same case for the 73 overlander in mn. Do NOT make a counter offer until after the inspection. Did you download and print the inspection checklist? Things you will have to do. Recaulk, window seals, plumbing and possibly floor repair or replace. From the way you are writing you plan to make it your own so take that into consideration. The sunburn is the clear coat peeling. Keep us in the loop please we are enjoying your adventure. Oh and I have been called some names like crook and ripoff for offering a realistic price not a stupid one and those trailers are still sitting there 1.5 years later!
Cliff
Might be checking it out tomorrow. Yes, I have the checklist. Thank you. Checklist, flashlight, screwdriver...

When you reattach the aluminum and rivet them, does any kind of sealer or glue go in between them? What keeps the water out otherwise? Just a tight seal?

Yup, hoping to do some modifications like adding a bunk for the baby, putting in a tub in the bathroom if there isn't one... want to keep countertops and oven. Might change to a deeper sink, higher faucet... We are thinking about taking 6 months to a year to travel/go full time.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:07 PM   #39
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This one doesnt look too bad from the photos, am I correct this is the one with the caulking on the back? That may not be a total show stopper, those seams are easy enough to seal up with some acryl or parbond after you scrape the old caulk off. BTW, never use silicone caulk on aluminum. Only use a polyurethane sealant.
Yes, you are correct - this is the one with the caulking on the back. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:10 PM   #40
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Yup, hoping to do some modifications like adding a bunk for the baby
Bunks were an option available for the '72 Tradewind. If you're lucky, the trailer will already have the brackets in place (and maybe even the bunk itself). Mine had the brackets but not the folding cots.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:27 AM   #41
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Yes the panels will require some tempro available at home depot or vintage trailer supply, also when you put the rivets in add some tempro to the rivet. wipe off excess after bucking the rivets. should have a tub if it is a rear bath.
cliff
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:08 AM   #42
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should have a tub if it is a rear bath.
cliff
Not necessarily. There was the tub option and wet bath option for the rear bath. As a tall person, I like the wet bath as it allows me to stand fully upright when showering. The tub option put the bathtub at the side and the curvature of the shall prevents a tall person from standing fully upright whilst showering.
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