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Old 12-01-2014, 11:59 PM   #85
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I have sooo many questions! And after spending some more time with her today, I feel like it'll be ok. I just wish my husband could retire so we can start... Haha
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:52 AM   #86
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They really did a job on it, didn't they.

I would certainly get online with your shipping company, provide pictures and a written complaint to their powers-that-be, and do a thorough review.

May save someone else.

It is fixable, tho, focus on that and get back to your dreams.


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Old 12-02-2014, 08:55 AM   #87
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Make sure your complaints go to the top of the hierarchy. Plumbers rule applies here as in STUFF flows downhill.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:01 PM   #88
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I feel SO overwhelmed! I can't get the damaged panels replaced till February. I'm assuming it would be easier for them to replace if the interior panels were out. In trying to figure out what I CAN do in the meantime, but the reality of being a female with a toddler in tow and two other kids leaves me with little time to spend on the airstream. Where do I start? I thought of working on the hitch and the bumper, since it's within my skillset and doesn't affect the other work to be done. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:30 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by amysemmens View Post
I feel SO overwhelmed! I can't get the damaged panels replaced till February. I'm assuming it would be easier for them to replace if the interior panels were out. In trying to figure out what I CAN do in the meantime, but the reality of being a female with a toddler in tow and two other kids leaves me with little time to spend on the airstream. Where do I start? I thought of working on the hitch and the bumper, since it's within my skillset and doesn't affect the other work to be done. Any suggestions?
It looks like the damage occurred when they pushed the trailer into the container.

Vintage Trailer Supply - parts and supplies for vintage travel trailers and campers! has the correct drip edge for the baggage hatch & it looks like your door hinge could be straightened. The new drip edge will however need to be stripped, as no supplier has the period correct parts in bare aluminum.
Door handles can be pricy, even for a used one. Sadly they are obsolete now, so pricing has gone berserk lately. You might be better off sourcing one locally. Probably something from a house or perhaps a boat.

As far as the panel replacements go, yes you need to remove the interior skin in order to do it correctly, & bring it back to the original strength of the semi monocoque structure. Use solid or "buck" rivets (tools & rivets available through Vintage Trailer Supply) & do not use Olympic rivets, as they do not have the same clamping force or shear strength of the original "bucked" rivets. Although panel replacement may sound daunting, it's really a matter of drilling out all of the rivets that hold the damaged panel in place, then using it as a pattern to fabricate a new one, rivet holes included. Make sure you use 2024 T3 Alclad .032" thick, available through Pilot Supplies and Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce , AirParts.com - Home Page & probably locally at an aircraft service facility or through a knowledgable aluminum supplier.
I'm very sorry to hear of your misfortune, but keep your chin up, it'll just get better from now on.
Colin

PS I lived in OZ in the early 80's for a year & a half & hitch hiked virtually all of the way around it. It was a wonderful time in my life, which I will never forget.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:39 PM   #90
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Thank you Colin! Thankfully most of the expensive items are covered on insurance. I'm more in the mindset of "what can I do in the meantime?" We plan to rewrite and reinsulate, so removing the interior is no big deal, but I don't want to remove it too early, and obviously can't start the interior till it's repaired and the interior panels are back in place. I'm just itching to get started and don't know where to start. I will put an order in with VTS soon for the lights and a few other things, but as you may have guessed I'm impatient and the damage has now held us up by 3 months or more.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:49 PM   #91
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Thank you Colin! Thankfully most of the expensive items are covered on insurance. I'm more in the mindset of "what can I do in the meantime?" We plan to rewrite and reinsulate, so removing the interior is no big deal, but I don't want to remove it too early, and obviously can't start the interior till it's repaired and the interior panels are back in place. I'm just itching to get started and don't know where to start. I will put an order in with VTS soon for the lights and a few other things, but as you may have guessed I'm impatient and the damage has now held us up by 3 months or more.
Why does it have to take 3 months to fix? If you don't feel comfortable fixing it, make sure it is done by someone qualified to repair Aircraft, as your local Caravan Repair Shop/Dealer will definitely not be capable to do it correctly.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:52 PM   #92
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It's being fixed my Airstream Australia, and they can't get the panels till feb
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:02 PM   #93
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It's being fixed my Airstream Australia, and they can't get the panels till feb
Although they may be a dealer (& not for long), they don't need to "get the panels", as these panels are made from flat sheets & are not Airstream specific. I have been doing this for a long time, & all of the damage that you have shown in photos is repairable by a skilled craftsman. As a side note, Airstream hasn't used the aluminum alloy in production that you require for over 30 years. If they are trying to tell you they need to source it from the Factory, they are just "pulling your chain". If your endcaps are damaged, they can be fixed by a craftsman with an English Wheel, as Airstream doesn't even make the endcap segments for your era of trailer.

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Old 12-10-2014, 05:54 AM   #94
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Thanks Colin, I am also planning to contact a company tomorrow who do aircraft fabrication. Since this is covered by insurance, I really don't mind what the cost is to them, I just don't want to be kept waiting. I agree with you about airstream tho, and the only reason I asked them to quote was so they could just source everything. If I take it to an engineer etc I will need to source the parts and add this in to the quote, which is just more time than I have. Having said that, I have found a lot of things I need on VTS, and am now looking at Airstream supply as well as some things are out of stock.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:12 AM   #95
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You have a wonderful resource here in Colin H, and I'm sure others will chime in.

We liked to take morning coffee out into ours, particularly the first RV in 2002, to sip and dream, sip and dream, even while we were readying it for the road.

Deep breaths, it will all come together.


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Old 12-10-2014, 07:15 AM   #96
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Thanks Lily, I've had my pity party/hissy fit and I'm all good now. I've found a lot of parts online and am making calls over the next few days to local engineers so fingers crossed. Mornings here resemble chaos but once the kids are off school and the weather improves (we've had a very wet start to summer!) I pan on spending more time outside. And definitely a cuppa or two or maybe even a cheeky wine 😉
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Old 12-10-2014, 08:04 AM   #97
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Miss Amy...
You will need "marine grade" wiring to 'rewire'... this is 'multi-stranded' wire capable of surviving a lot of 'flexing' which happens in all trailers. DO NOT use 'SOLID' wire...

Try to 'map out' where all the electrical items go... and make a 'schematic' or 'wiring diagram' of what you currently have.

You can make 2 separate drawings.. 1- AC , 2-DC... Those are the wiring circuits you have to deal with.

Next, what 'voltage' are you running in Australia? Is it 120VAC (Volts Alternating Current) or 208VAC? Wiring will need to 'match', of course.. we run 120VAC here in U.S.A.

Start making a list of each circuit wiring you plan to use.. you can get the 'incidentals' like wire, grommets and wiring connectors locally.

Start figuring out how the plumbing runs. Make a diagram or two.. one will be the supply, the other waste.

Will you be installing 'Solar'? Time to get a plan for wiring of that, too... including the 'control'

Have you decided how you want to manage airflow? Fan in roof, Heater, AC? Plan layout... get parts...

What about your skylight? Maxim is the way to go...

Yes, you can work on the bumper, tongue.. etc..

Yes, you can work on the 'running gear'....

Have fun!
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:17 AM   #98
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Miss Amy...
You will need "marine grade" wiring to 'rewire'... this is 'multi-stranded' wire capable of surviving a lot of 'flexing' which happens in all trailers. DO NOT use 'SOLID' wire...

Try to 'map out' where all the electrical items go... and make a 'schematic' or 'wiring diagram' of what you currently have.

You can make 2 separate drawings.. 1- AC , 2-DC... Those are the wiring circuits you have to deal with.

Next, what 'voltage' are you running in Australia? Is it 120VAC (Volts Alternating Current) or 208VAC? Wiring will need to 'match', of course.. we run 120VAC here in U.S.A.

Start making a list of each circuit wiring you plan to use.. you can get the 'incidentals' like wire, grommets and wiring connectors locally.

Start figuring out how the plumbing runs. Make a diagram or two.. one will be the supply, the other waste.

Will you be installing 'Solar'? Time to get a plan for wiring of that, too... including the 'control'

Have you decided how you want to manage airflow? Fan in roof, Heater, AC? Plan layout... get parts...

What about your skylight? Maxim is the way to go...

Yes, you can work on the bumper, tongue.. etc..

Yes, you can work on the 'running gear'....

Have fun!
Solid wire has been used in Airstream (& likely all other travel trailers) trailers AC wiring for over 60 years, that I know of. We have never seen it fail, except for mice chewing it . Many Airstream's from 67 & 68 have aluminum solid aluminum wiring, which can cause problems. Solid copper wire will be fine, as long as you have grommets every time it passes through a rib or interior skin panel. Although Australia (& much of the world) use 240 volts AC, the amperage is half what it would be here for a normal household circuit.
Colin
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