Our Double Door 30' 1954 Liner - Page 4

wkerfoot · 09-30-2007, 08:18 PM

You may remember that the front and rear caps have some dents courtesy of three hurricanes in 2004. With the inside caps removed, I could access the dents from the interior. Before and after pictures after just pushing the dents from the inside.

Bill

wkerfoot · 09-30-2007, 08:24 PM

Another thing I discovered in removing the inside skin is that all of the inside skins were partially attached using buck rivets. In fact the upper two skins are six inches short of meeting at the roof so an eight inch piece was buck riveted to the two upper pieces and then the approximately eight and one half wide piece was buck riveted into place. Pop rivets were also used to hold the centers of the large panel to the interior vertical channels. I do not remember this being mentioned by anyone else.

Now time to start the interior 110V, 12V, AV and computer wiring.

Does anyone know where I can purchase snap in plastic grommets to keep the wiring from being cut by the vertical channel?

I have discovered many interior 110V splices hid in the middle of the interior panels.

Bill

till · 10-07-2007, 07:28 AM

McMaster-Carr
Thay have everything. Just plug in 3626. That is the page with the grommets.

wkerfoot · 01-13-2008, 06:06 PM

We have now rebuilt seven of the windows with seven more to go. Of course, also need to polish the drip caps and reinstall.

Bill

HH1 · 01-13-2008, 06:39 PM

What a super trailer! Your work is impressive, too. And yes, indeed, that stove/oven is nifty.

**Action** · 01-13-2008, 08:39 PM

Bill,

Do you know exactly what the original floor plan was? If you do, will you keep the original floor plan? Or will you deviate from that plan?

Looking back at the start of this thread, I realize it was the time of my daughters birth. She is 2 and a 1/2 now. So is your baby!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

wkerfoot · 01-13-2008, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Action

Bill,

Do you know exactly what the original floor plan was? If you do, will you keep the original floor plan? Or will you deviate from that plan?

Looking back at the start of this thread, I realize it was the time of my daughters birth. She is 2 and a 1/2 now. So is your baby!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Action,

Here is the original floor plan, except for the back door, courtesy of Fred Coldwell. We are keeping the center section basically the same, with a short Queen, centered in the rear and a "U" shaped dinette, convertible into a King in the front.

We have a lot of work to do, in order to make the Liner usable for Bozeman, but that is our goal.

Bill

**Action** · 01-13-2008, 09:03 PM

Awesome post!!!!

So I gotta ask, (based on the floor plan) are you going with the oil or the butane heater?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

wkerfoot · 01-13-2008, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Action

Awesome post!!!!

So I gotta ask, (based on the floor plan) are you going with the oil or the butane heater?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Action,

I don't know. Originally, I was thinking about forced air, like the Safari. Then I purchased a wall heater from another trailer to put near the front door. I might try a fireplace, like Robandzoe and try a catalytic in the rear. Or just go without and use the Liner in fair weather only. There were no interior appliances to reuse.

Bill

wkerfoot · 01-26-2008, 06:30 PM

What is the best sealer to use under the eyebrows, or dripcaps over the windows? The original putty tape or vulkem?

Bill

wkerfoot · 03-09-2008, 01:52 PM

Yesterday, my son while drilling with the hole saw, went through the outside skin and created a small hole. Any thoughts on what to use for a repair? Here is a picture from the inside and outside.

Bill

DEITZ645 · 03-09-2008, 05:01 PM

Wkerfoot,
That lloks like it may be in a bad location to patch / fix. Could it be aluminum welded and then grind down the patch? I am not a body man.

Like some of the earlier posters I too was unaware that Airstream made double door models, until in our search for a second trailer we stumbled upon one. A 1987 34' Excella 1000. Maybe there could be a sub-forum for double door units since they seem to be fairly rare...

Aerowood · 03-09-2008, 05:27 PM

To repair that skin I would cut out the damage very cleanly with 1" radius on the lower corners. Make a filler to match the cutout and then make a doubler to go in between the stringer and skin. shoot it all together with flush rivets below the skin lap and button head rivets where the existing are. this is called a flush skin repair and if done properly it will hardly be noticeable. Use NAS1097AD4-X rivets for the flush rivets. Space the rivets 5/16" from the cutout (ED, edge distance) and space around 3/4" from each other. Good luck
Kip

PS, 2024-T3 is not a weldable aluminum alloy.

**overlander63** · 03-09-2008, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wkerfoot

Any thoughts on what to use for a repair?
Bill

A big rivet?