I just purchased a 1950 Flying Cloud. I would rate it as in rough shape. So far I have removed the floor and all the decomposed floor, insulation and dirt. My plan is to remove all the interior panels and redo the wiring and insulation. Though most of the interior is original, it is in rough shape. My goal is to rebuild it based on the floor plans from http://airstream.net/members/documen...%20Catalog.pdf
My trailer has the chaise lounges. I plan to convert it to a double bed.
I plan to put in a wet bath as the plans show that was an option. I will be looking for advice in putting in black/grey tanks.
Does anyone have any photos of what the 3 piece front divan looked like?
Has anyone used a split mini ductless air conditioner.
I thought I could install the inside unit in place of an overhead cabinet. This idea is dependent upon being able to have "quick connect" so the outside unit can be left behind when not needed.
Congratulations and welcome! I have a 1954 Flying Cloud that I haven't started to restore yet. Good luck and I'm sure you will get answers to your questions in this forum. Also, try the "search" button which will give you lots of information on most restoration topics.
I noticed that the split airconditioner was only 9,000 BTU. I also noticed you live in Texas. I think you will need a lot more A/C than that.
I have a 1953 Cruiser and replaced one of the skylites with an RV airconditioner. It doesn't look as good as without one, but I live in Mississippi and pretty much need all the A/C I can get.
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Add to the cost of the restore the doctor's visits. I dropped the Marine Clean (Por-15 cleaner) and it splashed straight into my eye. The stuff, though advertised environmentally safe and non caustic, really burns bad. So far an emergency room visit, not sure what that will cost me in the end and an eye doctor visit for $150 and another scheduled for next week. Think of the tools that could be bought with that money.
Here is a picture of the new frame pieces. You can see the center pipe. Originally there were two side frame pieces made of light steel C channels made into an I beam. To these the springs were attached. They are held in place only by the aluminum I beam ribs. These are just bent 2024 skin pieces. I have laid on top the new frame pieces. I will replace the two old rusted I beams with longer 4 inch steel C channel. I will also weld in cross beams. In the space behind the wheels I plan on holding tanks and possibly a spare tire carrier. In the sections in front of the axles I plan on water tanks.
Here is a suggestion to strengthen your new frame while the doing is easy. Below is a photo of the front pipe frame on my old '51 18' Clipper. It has a sturdy inverted C channel crossbar on which to mount the propone tank bottom bracket. That C channel is made more secure by triangulation with an angled support arm underneath on one side.
My suggestion is to make your improved pipe frame into a subtle "A" frame by adding two such angled support arms that extend from the front of the pipe frame to the front of each new longer side rail. Add an inverted C channel on which to mount the propane tank lower bracket and weld it all together for a nice strong modified and improved pipe frame. The "A" frame up front will be somewhat disguised as propane bracket support arms, but should greatly improve frame strength by directly tying the trailer axle to your tow vehicle by metal frame rails without having to depend on the plywood floor for part of that connection structure.
Adding this "A" frame on up front will reduce both vertical and horizontal flexing and oscillation of the 4" pipe, which weakens it over time. It will also reduce the chances of pulling the pipe out from underneath the trailer in later years. Best wishes with your rebuild!
__________________
Fred Coldwell, WBCCI #1510, AIR #2675
Denver, Colorado - WBCCI Unit 24
Charter Associate Member FCU
Vintage Airstream Club Historian
Airstream Life "Old Aluminum Adventures"
I finished up the welding on the frame. I may need to do more depending on how I hang the tanks and for the step. I added an 'A'. Thanks for that suggestion. I also added a spare tire carrier. I bought the hoist from a junk yard. It is from a Ford van.
Next I need get tanks, both fresh and grey/black. One question I have is how much clearence should I allow between the rails and the tank so when I order them I do not get too large.
I was thinking of getting some half inch aluminum channel to run as floor support lengthwise. I have moved some of the "ribs" to make room for some tanks, fresh and grey. Well those ribs were where the four foot mark fell for the plywood to butt. I do not want to butt the plywood mid ribs. I can cut the plywood short or I can run channel perpendicular to the ribs. This also gives me a method of providing some support to the ends, which were solely supported by plywood and the center pipe. I have modified a picture to give some idea of what I mean.
I was thinking that since I am replacing all my belly skin, I can make my floor higher and compensate for the extra with the new belly skin.
Is there any faults in my thinking?
FC7039, The frame is looking great. I think your idea of extrea supports for the floor is a good idea. I might suggest further resurch about using aluminum in the frame. Moisture gets in this area and the Aluminum steel combination might not be a good idea. You could probable use steel with less cross members and get the same results. I say yes on cutting the floor ing to have joints over cross members. On my 55 flying Cloud when I do the floor I'm also going to use biskets in the joints to make a more solid connection. Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress.
Don
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