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Old 02-22-2005, 09:02 PM   #1
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1962 22' Safari

Hello All,

I am in deep in a renovation of my 22' Safari.

I started by tearing out some of the things I was sure I didn't want, then some more, then decided to replace the water system (pressurized galvanized tank filled with sludge)... pretty soon the shell was on blocks and I am welding on the frame. It all just happened so fast...

Right now I am working on adding a grey water tank just behind the axle and moving the fresh water tank to just in front of the axle. If I can get some pictures to attach one of them will have a side view of the frame with cross members circled in red that will be replaced by 2"x4" rectangular tube stock - 1/8". This is to provide some extra support for the tanks and something solid to attach the "tank hanger" to. The original tank was 30 gallons, and the galvanized tank probably added about 40-50 pounds. I am considering increasing the tank size to just less than 40 gallons, which will be close to a wash in weight, the grey tank will be about 24 gallons just behind the axle, and the black tank will go from 12 or so to about 20. I believe that with the frame strengthening I am doing this extra weight shouldn't be a problem, especially since it is centered closely on the axle, lowering the center of gravity of the trailer overall. I should also add that I am putting on a new axle that is rated for 4000lbs, and removing a fair amount of weight from the interior (two layers of linoleum to the tune of 200 pounds will be replaced with cork flooring for example...).

Another photo is of a strange wheel on this frame that seems to have the bolts pointing in from the outside... has anyone seen this before?

I have been having trouble posting, so I am hopeful that the photos will follow.

Any thoughts about the tank locations or that strange wheel?

Thanks,

Carlos Ferguson
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:25 PM   #2
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Please post more pictures! Where is the body? did you take pictures from the start? If not you need to put it back toghether and start over again!

Just kidding.

It is easy to get carried away.
You have it and you have it bad, can you say Aluminitus?

I am sure you will have an awsome trailer when you are done and will get a lot of help from forum members.
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Old 02-22-2005, 10:45 PM   #3
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1959 24' Tradewind
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The wheel is an original to your trailer and has the clips for the original baby moons. Hard to tell from the photo but it may be a split rim and if so, I would chuck it. You're adding alot of weight to the trailer when you consider that water weighs, what is it?, 8.7 pounds a gallon. An increase of just 10 gallons adds 87 pounds. I don't care to know what sewage weighs a gallon.

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Old 02-23-2005, 12:10 AM   #4
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2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
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Nice work!

Carlos,

You are doing a very similar thing to your frame as I did recently. I believe that you should box in the frame to add some strength, also check for heavy corrosion neear the axle mounting area, and add steel if necessary.
My tank installation is finished now, and I am very pleased with the outcome. I replaced all the rusted cross members with 3x4in square tube steel.
The wheel looks like an original. The clips you see hold on a baby moon hub cap. I suggest you check the offset before ordering new wheels. The original split rims on my Overlander had a definite positiva offset.
Your wheel does not look like a split rim. You might have it blasted and powdercoated, providing it is not damaged.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:47 PM   #5
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62' Safari Progress

An update on my 62'

1 - reinforced the frame by boxing in the c channel
2 - added spots for a fresh and grey tank on either side of the axle
3 - POR-15ed (which is a verb)
4 - installed conduit for the brake line and rear lights/12v needs as I plan to have the battery boxes in front
5 - put in the new floor with 3/4" ply, ACX
6 - bought a macerator on ebay!


A couple questions: when you fill a fresh water tank, how do you know when to stop? The fresh tank must have an inlet and a vent, so how do the city water pressure systems work? Bypass the tank and pump to use this method?

Carlos Ferguson
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:59 PM   #6
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Don't look into the light little airstream!

Also some repairs to the wheelwells, I used butyl rubber as a sealant, sometimes called gutter seal.


Soon: floor and shell together again.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
An update on my 62'

A couple questions: when you fill a fresh water tank, how do you know when to stop? The fresh tank must have an inlet and a vent, so how do the city water pressure systems work? Bypass the tank and pump to use this method?

Carlos Ferguson
Carlos,
The city water system is actually a separate system..,running parallel to the on-board water system...There are diagrams of the plumbing needed on the forum..(if not, let me know and I'll send you what I have on file)
ciao
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Old 07-27-2005, 07:49 PM   #8
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62 Safari Update

I've been "off the job" for a few months but now that it is hot here in Iowa I am back for more.

The pictures below show my progress - A couple from the early days and then new axle is installed, 3 inches of foamular insulation attached to the bottom, a mix of new and old c channel attached to the floor, and the beginnings of my new belly pan (guarded by James the cat). Thanks to Uwe for advice on the belly pan.
Carlos Ferguson
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Old 07-27-2005, 07:50 PM   #9
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Pictures

More Pictures...
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:19 PM   #10
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Wheel Wells

I got the belly skin back on and moved on to the skin replacement...

Both wheel wells were damaged and since I was only planning on replacing one side-skin, I cut a half circle above the wheel and excised the damaged metal. This looks something like the curve of rivets I have seen on other airstreams and leaves me with a piece I can easily remove and replace should I have a blow-out.

Plus it makes me think of 80's designer jeans.

First I cut a half circle using a large compass to draw on the aluminum with pencil.

Next I used the cut-out piece as a pattern for a slightly larger half circle. I fit this into place and cleco-ed.

With the piece in place I could carefully cut out the trim-hole (for lack of a better term) and file it to fit exactly.

I cut and shaped the trim using snips and pliers - this was a tricky process, but once I got the hang of it... I use the pliers to pull two tabs apart (as pictured) a little at a time, moving back and forth until it was roughly the right shape. I fit it into place and tapped with a mallet until it fit. Butyl Rubber and Rivets!

Pics:
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:30 PM   #11
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New Skin

I replaced the trunk section, the front and center, a rear quarter panel and the curb side due to damage and corrosion. For the smaller pieces the .032 2024 alclad was great. The rear quarter with a curve was easier than the straight pieces - the curve kind of masks any minor waves.

For the side I should have used the .040. I am considering replacing this side again as it is a little wavy, but am also thinking this might force me to realize that I am obsessed... If only I could do it when I am finished.

I am redesigning the interior and will have no use for the trunk, so off it goes - I like the clean look better I think. The trunk area was a mess with dents and a small tear.
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:57 PM   #12
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1967 22' Safari
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Wow! What an incredible job you're doing! Keep up the good work. That's one lucky trailer! Diane
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:46 PM   #13
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2007 25' Safari FB SE
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Looking good, Carlos.
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:08 AM   #14
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1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
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cool!

hey carlos,

i didn't realize you had a string started. i'll have to keep an eye on it. we're about neck and neck, aren't we? i've got a little more to go on the skin replacement, though, so you're about to pull ahead, me thinks.

i did the same thing with the rear of mine, btw, and lost the trunk. at first, i was thinking about putting the batteries in there,a nd venting the door, but upon thinking it over, if i do stick the batteries in there, they would be just as accessible under the bed, so i may vent them through the floor. of course, they may go up front, still. it's funny how much my plans have changed as i've gotten into this. i planned on an under-floor tank, and even cut out and rewelded the cross-braces up for it, bought the tank... and decided i didn't like the way the tank hung down (mine hung down almost 4 inches from the belly)... so now it's going under the front window. it'll probably end up spmewhere else when this is all said and done! ha!

do you have plans for the interior you could post?

jp
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:39 AM   #15
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Trim

Carlos,
The trim you were using around the wheelwells looks very sturdy.
What is it? Where did you get it?
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Old 10-14-2005, 08:12 AM   #16
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Trim

Ha! i logged back on to ask the same question! hook us up!



jp
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:05 PM   #17
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Wheel trim

Don Wilbur sent me this information, I am happy to pass it on...

The trim is from Brunner Enterprises, they have a lot of useful looking pieces, including some aluminum slider stuff that looks good for doors and things...

The trim is called mirror trim, (Cap g51sl 1/16"). It fit well around the two pieces of metal (exterior skin and wheel well metal) where they come together at the wheel wells. It was around $25 for 12', I had it cut into three 4' lengths and shipped. Here is the link:

http://www.brunnerent.com/Tools/Port...=1&strMetaTag=
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
hey carlos,

i did the same thing with the rear of mine, btw, and lost the trunk. at first, i was thinking about putting the batteries in there,a nd venting the door, but upon thinking it over, if i do stick the batteries in there, they would be just as accessible under the bed, so i may vent them through the floor. of course, they may go up front, still. it's funny how much my plans have changed as i've gotten into this. i planned on an under-floor tank, and even cut out and rewelded the cross-braces up for it, bought the tank... and decided i didn't like the way the tank hung down (mine hung down almost 4 inches from the belly)... so now it's going under the front window. it'll probably end up spmewhere else when this is all said and done! ha!

do you have plans for the interior you could post?

jp
I am having similar move-it-from-here-to-there-in-my-head experiences as I work. I am, in fact, working on the layout tonight. I will post some plans tomorrow and see if anyone out there has ideas... New pictures of progress too.

Likewise, I would like to see your plan... a rear bed back by the trunk? I am thinking something along these lines. I am moving my bathroom from the rear where it took up more than 20% of my available square footage to the side where it will be reduced to about 5%. I am planning an all in one toilet/shower with a holding tank built under the toilet, a fiberglassed shower pan floor that will drain down into a gray water holding tank underneath (ideas for my water system by the hundreds from Uwe...) I just couldn't justify the HUGE tub that was in there, though I found a site with an image of the tub under a dinette seat and am tempted to do this... but do I really need a tub? How often does that get used unless you have hookups? I might do it anyway.

http://www.vintage-vacations.com/61airstream_3.htm

That tub right next to the tiny woodstove I am going to install...

http://www.marinestove.com/airstream.htm

It turned out that the owner of this company is also the designer and re-builder of the airstream pictured and was quite willing to talk at length about his installation and what he would change after living in it for two years in NYC. I lived in Provincetown on Cape Cod for a couple winters in a tiny apartment with only wood heat and loved it. The smallest stove should be just right for my space I think.

Today was spent refabricating the rain guard over the door which was beat up and bent and letting water through which came right inside as my door has no weather stripping right now (where do I get it for a 62' trailer? any ideas anyone?) I took off the old piece and spent a chunk of time polishing and fixing before I decided it was too far gone and so then used a leftover piece of .040 from the side replacement to fabricate a new piece. It looks great installed and is much stiffer. Water begone. Also, a new curved peice of tubing that fits inside the wall and will be the vent for the gray water tank. It was impossible to find a match for the 1962 abs pipe, so I found some new poly pipe and bent it with a blowtorch. It isn't exactly pretty, but it will work fine...

Pictures tomorrow, and plans.

Carlos
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:49 PM   #19
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Progresses

I've been working but not posting, so here is catchup.

I finished the belly and skin replacement finally, here are some shots of the bottom front and the patches I made to cover the poorly designed outside plug and antenna jacks. Both were leaking large amounts of water down to rot the floor beneath. I am tempted to make a solar system on my airstream with these patches. These patches suggested the wheels I chose (also inspired by how good these wheels looked on Uwe's trailer).
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:54 PM   #20
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Windows and Leaks

All the windows needed some attention, this was a surprisingly (what isn't?) time consuming enterprise. I took off all the rain caps, polished and re-rivetted them back in place with new sealant, removed all the windows and put in a lot of new glass with new butyl rubber seal, new weather stripping. Then I used a wire wheel to clean the insides of the windows of paint - I think I will leave them like this and use some 1.5" L shaped aluminum for trim around the windows.

When I finished and took the trailer outside in the rain: leaks, front and back on the end caps where there didn't seem to be any sealant from the factory. I tried to fix this on the inside with no luck, then I used the alcoa aluminum seal and a syringe which fixed the leaks completely. Photos of the syringe below, I used an 18 gauge needle filed off to an angle as a tiny caulking gun to run along the seams.
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