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Old 11-24-2007, 02:13 PM   #441
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Carlos, I think your trailer is very cool. I can really apreciate how you did it just for you. It is designed to fulfill your specific needs and no others. I think Wally would be very proud of how you collaberated with him on improving his original ideas. If he wouldn't like it, well too bad, it is really a piece of functional sculpture that many are inspired by.
I am a furniture/ cabinet guy. I use the Baltic (Russian) birch for all my cabinet drawers. It is a plywood that is in a league all it's own... to find 1/8 plywood with 5 plys of wood is unheard of with any of the other types offered. The multiple plys gives it a superior strength. I don't think you will have any problems at all with it on the walls, it is as strong as normal plywood twice it's thickness. The only down side is the amount of formaydlahyde in the glue. In Russia the glue is not as eco-friendly as it is here, but I hear they are working on it. My sheet goods distributor, Wurth Group, sometimes sells it in 1 x 2 meter(3' x6" roughly), but the quality is not as good as the 1 x 1 meter material. Sometimes the sheets are highly fiqured with tiger stripping or birds eye... always seems a shame to use it in an application where no one sees it.
The recycling of wash( I was informed that is the new term to use, sound less dirty than gray water) to flush the toilet is genius...I could go on, but I am sure you are tired of hearing how great you trailer is.
During that party... did you let any of those artist types smoke in your baby? Cigarette burns are very hard to get out of Baltic birch...
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Old 11-30-2007, 05:03 PM   #442
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Carlos, i hope you don't mind a relative newbie invading your thread. I live in northern Ontario, Canada and have the ambitious notion of living in my AS year round. So I bought a 1989 34 ft excella, and plan to modify it to suit my needs. Now, I am not a handyman so there is no way I can even come close to the spectacular work that you have done. Obviously I will have to replace the insulation with the reflectix double sided foil that you and Malconium have been using. Mine is not a shell off renovation so I cannot insulate the belly pan much as I would like to. I plan to use as much heat tape and wrap insulation as I can access and in winter time will enclose the area below and provide some heat and insulation to the below area.
I'll be removing the inner skins. I hate the look of the vinyl so my initial thought was to strip the vinyl and go with the aluminum look. I know some people have done this but it really is a terrible job, soul and lung destroying so I am casting around for alternatives. Like everyone else I am overawed by what you have done with the Baltic plywood. However, I note your comment about replacing the inner skins with the plywood and how it might affect the stability of the trailer, esp. a 34 ft one. So my thought is to simply keep the inner skins as they are, vinyl covered and all and cover them with a very thin Baltic plywood. There is a company in Toronto that imports Baltic Birch plywood from Russia, in thickness as little as
0.4 mm. I have some samples and the 0.8 mm 5 layer plywood seems excellent. Screwing it to the skins seems to work very well. Any thoughts on this?
I see from your pictures that you have used a slight overlap on the panels. What is your reasoning behind this and do you like the effect?
Did you use a clear varnish on the wood?
I am also planning to put in infloor heating, using electric mats. Not sure if I will or should put insulation underneath it. I am hoping to be able to get rid of that noisy forced air heater if I can find a way to keep the pipes and tanks from freezing. I will be hooked up to the grid with very little travelling.
Finally, I plan to install the little cod woodstove from Navigator Stove Works. Are you happy with yours?

Anyway, your thread has been inspirational! Any comments, advice and ideas from you or anyone else would be appreciated!

best wishes,

Marc
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:38 AM   #443
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Hi Marc,

write again if I don't address everything you want to know here.

First, I am working on another little trailer here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f191...pod-37710.html

and for this one I will use spray-on foam. I think it is the highest r value you could get, I don't think there is anything to the idea that it will break into peices when the airstream moves, which seems to be the refrain I hear whenever someone mentions foam. I put foam sheets under the floor on my trailer, have travelled a lot, no problems.

I also think, though it is just my opinion, that there would be no problem with the plywood in any length trailer... it's quite strong, I have had no problems. Using it as a veneer would look great - though I wonder how you would deal with the rivet lines? Will they show through? I think the vinyl would be a good thermal break, but I would seal both sides of anything you put on, just incase there is some condensation - raw wood would discolor pretty quickly. I put 3 coats of poly on both sides of my wood.

the overlap was just my solution to sheets that were five by five feet - too small to span the entire length. I could have butt jointed them, but then would have had to try to get the seam exactly on the ribs so I could have two rivets side by side. it looks fine to me.

I think if you are on the grid and can put a small heater down below, or a light or something, then wall it in with insulation, you will be pretty well off in terms of avoiding freezing. If you are full time in a quite cold climate, I think you will want a propane heater as a backup - the stove is good for 4 hour burn times max - so the room gets pretty chilly by morning. You could have a propane heater on an electronic thermostat to come on when the stove goes out, warm the trailer in the morning before you have a fire. I love the stove and don't mind, but it's not for everyong, waking up to a chilly room.

good luck,

Carlos
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Old 12-01-2007, 10:46 AM   #444
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Thanks Carlos - The 0.8 mm plywood seems to cover up any underlying imperfections well enough so that should be ok.

Spray foam? Any particular brand you'd recommend? What thickness? And some tape on the ribs I assume and take care not to bury wires and pipes in the material?

The woodstove would be more for fun than anything else - I love the kind of heat it gives out. Main heating system would be electrical infloor - company called Thermosoft makes these. Soft mats, designed to be used under floating wood or laminate floor, hope that will work.

That looks like a really neat little trailer you're building - I assume that's for your wife to live in? I'll be following that project and wonder what ideas you'll come up with!

Thanks again!

Marc
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Old 12-01-2007, 03:42 PM   #445
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To figure out the number of BTU's of heat that migrates into the box over 24 hours there is a simple test. Pre-chill the box with a block of ice for a day; Then,toss out the remaining ice, put in a new block of ice that you have weighed, on some foam egg cartons (to keep the ice off of the ice box floor), after 24 hrs. remove the ice and weigh it again. The number of lbs. of ice that has melted, times 144 will give you the number of BTU's of heat ingress to the box.
By the way, the AS is simply stunning.
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Old 12-01-2007, 04:42 PM   #446
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As The Foam Burns

Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Ferguson
...........................and for this one I will use spray-on foam.....................
Carlos
I admire your work, choice stuff.

When foam insulation burns some really toxic byproducts are released. With your wood stove my concern would be to prepare for the worst case scenario, as in a trailer burn that could be caused by even a crossed wire.
Maybe you have already thought about this and found foam as safe as fiberglass.

R
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Old 12-01-2007, 09:52 PM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastrob
I admire your work, choice stuff.

When foam insulation burns some really toxic byproducts are released. With your wood stove my concern would be to prepare for the worst case scenario, as in a trailer burn that could be caused by even a crossed wire.
Maybe you have already thought about this and found foam as safe as fiberglass.

R
Hi Rob,

I appreciate the thought... but how would this be different than the use of foam in a house? My sense has been that if there was a ever a need to get out of the trailer fast, I could jump out the window by the bed almost instantly... I'm just thinking foam is the most efficient and easiest to install option... I'll probably try it and then have a better sense. I have to find someone that wants such a small job though...
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Old 12-01-2007, 09:56 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lohidoc
Spray foam? Any particular brand you'd recommend? What thickness? And some tape on the ribs I assume and take care not to bury wires and pipes in the material?

The woodstove would be more for fun than anything else - I love the kind of heat it gives out. Main heating system would be electrical infloor - company called Thermosoft makes these. Soft mats, designed to be used under floating wood or laminate floor, hope that will work.

Marc

I don't really know about the specific spray foam, just that it is being used more commonly in house construction now...

That sounds like a good idea for the stove, using it to augment regular heat, especially in a 34' trailer.

Good luck!

Carlos
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:08 AM   #449
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Googled:Burning Foam Insulation Hazard

Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Ferguson
Hi Rob,

I appreciate the thought... but how would this be different than the use of foam in a house? My sense has been that if there was a ever a need to get out of the trailer fast, I could jump out the window by the bed almost instantly... I'm just thinking foam is the most efficient and easiest to install option... I'll probably try it and then have a better sense. I have to find someone that wants such a small job though...
The wife calls me 'Chicken Little,' some stuff is reportedly "fire retardant" but I goggled up this one:
NASD: Insulation Fire Hazards On Farms
I had a taste of the burning stuff once, got sick.

R
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Old 12-02-2007, 07:23 AM   #450
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I had insulation sprayed in my addition. It was a 1" layer they called a vapor lock. That foam has a R of 7 per 1". It expanded, but not a lot so it would be okay to use without causing any distortion. Many insulation companies offer this type of foam. It is not a homeowner job though. The 2 part material is mixed in the hose and heat is needed too. The set up was all in a big truck that does nothing but spray the stuff. Everything had to be masked off too. The over spray travels very great distances. I am very glad I had it done

If my trailer burns, well the fumes would be the last of my worries. BTW, the floor tiles would resist burning at least.
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Old 12-02-2007, 11:58 AM   #451
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Heat tape

Hey, somebody talk to me about heat tape, what is it, where do I get it, how is it best installed? Tank heaters? I am thinking I want to make it so I can keep water in my rig down to 15 degrees at night or so. I figure this will be impossible on solar, but if I have a plug-in...

let the information flow...


Thanks for any help,

Carlos
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:41 PM   #452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Ferguson
Hey, somebody talk to me about heat tape, what is it, where do I get it, how is it best installed? Tank heaters? I am thinking I want to make it so I can keep water in my rig down to 15 degrees at night or so. I figure this will be impossible on solar, but if I have a plug-in...

let the information flow...


Thanks for any help,

Carlos
Carlos,

Electric tank heaters are an option. They run on 120V...some also on 12V.
Like these, perhaps:
12V RV Holding Tank Heater by Ultra Heat
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Old 12-02-2007, 04:48 PM   #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Ferguson
...heat tape, what is it, where do I get it, how is it best installed? ...Carlos
Carlos,

Heat tape looks like 1" wide double stick foam tape, but it has a thread of resistance wire in it. It also has a plug to 110V at one end. You wrap it around your "problem" pipes just like the protective vinyl plumbing tapes--in a spiral fashion to cover as much pipe as possible. But you need to be plugged in to use it, or run your generator all night.

Probably get it at Home Depot and other hardware emporiums.

Zep
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Old 12-02-2007, 04:51 PM   #454
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That horrible orange store and the blue cousin have it in many lengths to fit your needs. An electrical supply house will be cheaper and you will get some actual customer service. It will keep your pipes flowing if you install it right. To run it on solar you will need to upgrade significantly. This is easy for you.. no welding or altering needed sorry.
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Old 12-02-2007, 11:40 PM   #455
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thanks for the information everyone...

Carlos
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Old 12-03-2007, 01:38 PM   #456
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The BEST thread I've seen yet..

There are many great craftsmen/persons re-working Airstreams but I've yet to come across one with your combination of skill and artistic vision. After seeing your work and posts I immediately sent in to become a paid forum member. Awesome work.

gratefully,

rick olivier
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Old 12-03-2007, 02:56 PM   #457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
There are many great craftsmen/persons re-working Airstreams but I've yet to come across one with your combination of skill and artistic vision. After seeing your work and posts I immediately sent in to become a paid forum member. Awesome work.

gratefully,

rick olivier
Thanks Rick, there are a lot of threads on this forum similar to mine with REALLY nice work... look around a bit and you will find them.
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Old 12-03-2007, 07:44 PM   #458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Ferguson
I don't really know about the specific spray foam, just that it is being used more commonly in house construction now...

That sounds like a good idea for the stove, using it to augment regular heat, especially in a 34' trailer.

Good luck!

Carlos

Thanks Carlos,

I looked into the spray foam - it probably does have a better R value but as a rule of thumb I think that anything that requires a chemical suit and a respirator to install is something I probably don't want to live in! I know it's all been tested but so was asbestos in schools.

By the way, is there a way to access the area below the floor without removing the belly pan?

Marc
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Old 12-03-2007, 11:26 PM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lohidoc
Thanks Carlos,

I looked into the spray foam - it probably does have a better R value but as a rule of thumb I think that anything that requires a chemical suit and a respirator to install is something I probably don't want to live in! I know it's all been tested but so was asbestos in schools.

By the way, is there a way to access the area below the floor without removing the belly pan?

Marc
I hear you on the spray foam. I think the same thing about bottled water (really!). Everyone drinks it because they are so afraid of tap water... I'm pretty sure in 20 years we will figure out that all the chemicals in the plastic cause long term exposure hazards.

Hmmm... I guess you could sneak in by removing some rivets and pulling down a bit on the belly, the only other way would be to cut through the floor? What are you trying to reach?
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:45 PM   #460
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[quote=C_Ferguson]I hear you on the spray foam. I think the same thing about bottled water (really!). Everyone drinks it because they are so afraid of tap water... I'm pretty sure in 20 years we will figure out that all the chemicals in the plastic cause long term exposure hazards.

Hmmm... I guess you could sneak in by removing some rivets and pulling down a bit on the belly, the only other way would be to cut through the floor? What are you trying to reach?[/quote


Oh, it would be nice to clean it up, remove the old pink insulation, put in foil insulation, use heat tape and wrapping on the pipes, check and replace water and gas lines if needed, you know.....
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