1962 22' Safari

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by Daedalus

Carlos

The transformation of that trailer is very original and inspiring. I have a question about your use of the wood skins on the interior. Did you consider applying the birch ply as a second inner skin over the original interior aluminum skins? Were they already gone, or in bad shape? Would it have been too heavy, or too thick to have both? The reason I ask is that there were some who seemed to think the choice of plywood rather than metal might compromise the structural integrity of the assembly through wear and tear at the connections over time. Have you noticed that to be the case to any extent? Also, do you perforate your own plywood (seen in #358)? I've been trying to find a source for it.

Thanks,

Don Keppler

Don,

I thought a lot about how to do the interior - and read many posts that suggested removing the interior aluminum is a BAD idea. That said, I think the plywood I used (1/8" baltic birch) is probably similar to the aluminum in terms of strength. I added more rivets too. I think the wood and aluminum together would have added a lot of weight. Veneer might have been a better option if I chose to keep the interior skins.

I haven't noticed any loose rivets or buckling or anything like that - I've driven from Iowa to upstate ny to Kentucky and back though, not exactly 30 years of testing. I might be less inclined to do this in a longer trailer, but I don't really know - all I can say is that it has worked fine for me and I am pretty happy with the way things look.


I made the plywood with a forstner bit at a strong drill. My arms still hurt a few days later. I have a big bag of wood-chips too. It does seem like there should be some product you could buy to avoid the drilling process.


Hope it all goes well,

Carlos

[A-Merry-Can]

i had fully intended to use a veneer on the interior of my 18 footer. i took out all the original skins (mine had 7 panel segments on the interior end caps, too). anyway, after going through a whole sheet of veneer trying to make the compound curve in the 7 panel segment, i've decided to just polish the end caps in ours. we'll probably still veneer the interior skins, though i have to admit, i'm still concerned with the veneer and the aluminu through all the temperatuure changes the trailer must endure. i read somewhere that on spartans they put a thin liner between the interior wood panels and the ribs to try to insulete the wood. on the old ones, you can see where the finish on the wood sometimes gets discolored around the aluminum ribs. i can only imagine it would be compounded with a veneer laminated to aluminum.

but we're all pioneers in this, really. you never know what's going to work 10 years down the road, and nothing is so permanent it can't be redone (or sold! ).

jp

[Daedalus]

"nothing is so permanent it can't be redone (or sold! )."

Thanks for your input.

[dmaiden]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

I made the plywood with a forstner bit at a strong drill. My arms still hurt a few days later. I have a big bag of wood-chips too. It does seem like there should be some product you could buy to avoid the drilling process.

Carlos,
Did you do any research on loss of strength with drilling all those holes? I'm a big guy and I would hate to end up on the floor in the middle of the night

Looks great.

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by dmaiden

Carlos,
Did you do any research on loss of strength with drilling all those holes? I'm a big guy and I would hate to end up on the floor in the middle of the night

Looks great.

My research involved making a small piece and then seeing if that bit would support my standing weight. It did... I think if you have enough supports it will be fine, my widest span between supports is probably 16-18" square. I can't make any promises though, it's difficult to know how different people will use their beds!

[A-Merry-Can]

HA!



jp

[dmaiden]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

My research involved making a small piece and then seeing if that bit would support my standing weight. It did... I think if you have enough supports it will be fine, my widest span between supports is probably 16-18" square. I can't make any promises though, it's difficult to know how different people will use their beds!

I've heard the smell of propane and pine trees is an aphrodisiac.

[richard77]

"drilling holes in your bed can be tedious"

A source for pre drilled plywd panels is Louis and Company 800 422 4389
www.louisandcompany.com
huge woodworkers supply house with a great catalogue. If you don't have it Carlos, you will like it.
Another source is Outwater Plastics
www.outwater.com
and Hafele may also carry it
www.hafele.com/us/
another must have catalogue ( sometimes hard to qualify for the catalogue)

The holes are about 1/2 to 3/4, if I remember correctly, and come in various patterns.
btw, these panels are not cheap!

[jcferguson]

Some views of the shower. Anybody have a line on a shower fixture that would look good in here?

Back to work, the fridge and curtains will have to wait a few weeks.

[fastrob]

Gorgeous. It looks good too.
It almost seems too personal to ask such a beauty how much she weighs.
Whatever, the proportions are sweet and thanks for posting the pictures.

Robert

[dmaiden]

Thanks a lot Carlos. I had visions in my head of my shower and how beautiful it will be and you blew them to smithereens.

On second thought, an orange Home Depot bucket and Tupperware pitcher probably wouldn't have looked that good.

Don't you ever get tired of being so talented? Again, AWESOME job.

[Daedalus]

"Anybody have a line on a shower fixture that would look good in here?"

Carlos,

I'm not sure where your existing roughing is but here's an idea based on a corten support armature for the shower assembly. I think the dark/light metal combo would be nice in there. Great copper work by the way.

Don Keppler

[Mel]

(As I lift my jaw off of my desk) - the shower looks amazing! Great work again Carlos.

Don - love your idea for the shower fixture.

[Safari Tim]

This is the difference between an artist and the rest of us!

[BillyP]

Ok.. I was looking for plumbing information and ran across a link to this in another thread.. 5 hours ago.

WOW ....

no that does not describe it.. ummm (thinking)

SUPERB!!!.. no, still not the right word.. ummm

STREAMTACULAR!!!!! (if thats not a word it should be)..

[jcferguson]

Thanks for all the encouraging posts...


I've been driving, down to Kentucky for some work at a couple small colleges, then on to Asheville, NC for thanksgiving, a little campground on a river a few miles from town... backed up to the shore and listened to rushing water all night. Towing is good, I am getting used to it. On the way down from Iowa I had Strong Crosswinds but only felt mild sway. Then when the winds let up it seemed even easier to tow. I'm still a little nervous but after making my way through the mountains around Asheville I feel more confident. I still need to get fixtures for the shower but have used a pan filled with warm water and a tupperware "ladle" to pour water for a shower and it works fine. I still think a bathtub would be a viable option for my next one. I need a line on a 16 foot trailer if anyone spots one.

Carlos

[NorCal Bambi]

Great to see you out on the road, After compleating the Bambi I find it hard to want to stay home. Enjoy!
Don

[t.gray]

Carlos,
Your thread is an inspiration. Thank you for sharing your process and knowledge. Looking forward to seeing that beauty in Miami, Florida next weekend.

Hope you don't mind but I must throw a plug out there so any airstreamers close by can come peek at your trailer and artwork....

Carlos is towing his beautiful trailer and artwork to Miami for Bridge Art Fair in Miami - south beach - Florida. The booth is #208 at the Catalina Hotel - 1732 Collins Ave. Hopefully his airstream will be parked close by to show off.

[A-Merry-Can]

so i heard!



jp

[richard77]

Carlos, please post some pics of the art fair when you get settled. Love to see what your making in your AS.

I had an idea for your shower - exterior hose bibs with a hose Y , regular hardware store items. from the Y using reinforced clear pvs tubing to a 1 1/4 soft brass rod about 6 inches long. Mill the rod - drill 1/2 dia hole into rod about 5 inches, lath one end as a hose barb and drill 1/8 holes perpendicular to the rod to the 1/2 hole, a mainfold, a hand held shower head. Polish the brass hose bibs and rod and clear coat. Just a thought.

I see a copper Japanese soaking tub in your next project