Inverter Advice needed '77 Center Bath

[Razinni]

The inverter in my AS is shot and someone gave me a replacement that also appears to be bad. The original inverter has 3 hires connected to it. Positive / Negative and ???? The replacement only has two. The original is bolted to the floor in the front of the trailer covered next to the battery compartment.

I'm only going to use 1 permanent battery. My second battery will be one of those emergency jump types. Like this I'm going to leave it charged and useful in the trailer but also be able to easily carry it outside if needed.

So if I install a new inverter with only two wires what do I do with the third?

Raz

[mprokop87]

I ran into the exact same problem with mine. I will check what I did when I get home from work but I think I just left the third wire disconnected.

What is the replacement that you are going to use?

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Razinni

The inverter in my AS is shot and someone gave me a replacement that also appears to be bad. The original inverter has 3 hires connected to it. Positive / Negative and ???? The replacement only has two. The original is bolted to the floor in the front of the trailer covered next to the battery compartment.

I'm only going to use 1 permanent battery. My second battery will be one of those emergency jump types. Like this I'm going to leave it charged and useful in the trailer but also be able to easily carry it outside if needed.

So if I install a new inverter with only two wires what do I do with the third?

Raz

The third wire is probably chassis ground, if you're talking about the 12v wires. The red and black will be the positive and negative going to the battery. There should be another connection on the inverter for a chassis ground, to ground it to the AS. If the new inverter doesn't have one, you might be able to connect it to the screw you are using to mount it to the floor. If it's a single, bare copper wire, make a loop and use it like a washer. Put the screw through it, then the inverter mount, then into the floor.

If this doesn't help, post a picture or provide the inverter brand and model.

[Razinni]

I haven't selected a replacement yet because I'm not 100% sure that the one I was given really is bad. Seems to me like I should just be able to plug it in and test current.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Razinni

I haven't selected a replacement yet because I'm not 100% sure that the one I was given really is bad. Seems to me like I should just be able to plug it in and test current.

Make sure you have 12v coming in. When working on mine I shorted the hot wire to ground, blew out a big in-line fuse at the junction near the front. Mine is a big 110 amp fuse; very heavy. If your old inverter shorted out it may have taken the in-line fuse with it. Use a voltmeter to check the input to your inverter.

[DKB_SATX]

If by inverter you mean converter (Univolt, Triad, buzzing-boat-anchor, etc.) then I think the 3rd, smaller output wire on 70s trailers runs to the control panel to indicate when the converter is charging the batteries.

[mprokop87]

If you still need a 12v source, check out the listing below. It was just listed. I have the 9245 which is the 45A supply and love it. Nice and quiet and thats a good price.

Matt

Inteli-Power PD9260C

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Razinni

The inverter in my AS is shot and someone gave me a replacement that also appears to be bad.

Can you please provide a picture of the device you're working on, or maybe the brand and model number?

Inverter and converter are two different things and I think we're getting confused. Also, show the "third wire" you're talking about because this could be a ground or it could also be the control wire, which looks like a telephone wire and plug.

A picture is worth a thousand words

Thanks

[Razinni]

Here are the pictures. Clearly its a converter How should I test the new unit and should I assume that the third wire is to the indicator and compatible?

[Rich W]

I found some testing procedures at ehow.com. I personally don't have any experience with converters. I also found some jpeg files from an owner's manual. If the third wire you're talking about is on the 120 volt input, that's the case ground wire. The jpg file shows a grounded plug but it sounds like you have just the bare wires?

Follow the links and see if they help:

How to Test a RV Converter Charger | eHow

http://www.bestconverter.com/assets/...RTERMANUAL.pdf

Manuals Motorhome Related

(scroll down to Triad-Utrad Converter Brochure section)

[Razinni]

What is the recommended replacement?

[Razinni]

As a second question which of the blue wires shown on the panel would be directly connected back to the harness? With the battery connected they are both hot and I'm trying to isolate the charging line.

[Silverflames]

You should have a charging line running out of the old converter. Keep in mind one set of lines go to your 120vt connection, the other set should go to you 12vt fuse panel and a lead to your battery. I called intipower and they stated that battery can be anywhere on the system and it will still charge the battery.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by Razinni

What is the recommended replacement?

There are several good choices. No one seems to complain about Iota or Progressive Dynamics (Intelipower) converters. I've had good luck with Powermax Boondocker converters.

BestConverter is a popular source, I've bought one for each trailer from them. Like anything else these days, there are lots of Amazon and eBay sources for them as well. If you go that route, pay attention to the model numbers... the cheaper prices for Progressive Dynamics converters are often for the 91xx series, which requires the optional "charge wizard" dongle to be a 3-stage converter. The 92xx series has that functionality built in.

[Silverflames]

Yep, go with the charge wizard. Seems to work very well. It also flashes a readout to tell you what setting it's in. Full charging, trickle charge, etc..

[Razinni]

Thanks does this look about right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GA...sr=8-1&pi=SL75

[lewster]

Just a quick opinion.

While Amazon and eBay can sell you the cheapest parts, the most important feature you should be looking for is customer tech support and warranty fulfillment. I seriously doubt that someone in a garage sitting at a computer who drop ships an item to you for a few bucks will know anything about said product or will even be willing to help with any questions that you may have.

I have known Randy at Best Converter for 8 years. He is an upstanding guy who has the knowledge and experience to send you the right product for your needs and stands ready to help you with any problems or questions that you may have.

His prices are in line with many internet sites, but his assistance is invaluable. I would choose to support his business over any unknown internet seller for this feature alone, even if it costs a few bucks more than that guy in the garage!

[perryg114]

Did you ever verify that your replacement unit was working or not working? All you need is a volt meter. Connect it to power and turn it on and measure the voltage on the red and black wires.

Perry

[Razinni]

Interesting question as it turns out the 15 amp house 120 circuit tripped breaker and I have no power to the closest plug. I now have 2 older units I plan on testing.