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Old 01-31-2013, 12:11 PM   #1
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Smile Air Router wiring

I ordered Jefatech.com wireless WI-FI system which I have not yet installed. The system I chose is the Ubiquiti AirRouter 802.11n Wireless Router/ Bridge and the PICO2HP-US - Ubiquiti PicoStation2 HP 1000mW with POE. I'm still in the "head scratching" phase trying to figure out a way to bring the wire into my 2009 Airstream Classic 30 feet without having to drill a hole through the skin. I will only drill a new hole if I absolutely have to! I'm thinking about installing the router in the right hand cupboard above the bed where the breaker panel is and running the RJ45 cable down through storage area on the right side of the bed thus bringing it down into the outside compartment which is curbside and to the very back. My question is, has anyone done this? Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:21 PM   #2
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I purchased the WiFi Ranger unit in late summer. I mounted the antenna to the Winegard antenna, ran the cable across the roof attaching it to the edge of the skylight via a drill hole in the edge and a plastic tie (for wind stability), and entered the refrigerator vent and down to the access point of the other wiring. I ended up having to drill in there but it was not the outer skin. I entered the coach on the wall on one side of the refrigerator. Perhaps that will work for you.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:28 PM   #3
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You can run wires through the fridge roof vent and then access them from the outside hatch. You can then shove them between the wall bulkheads to where you want them to go. You can drill the bulkheads if the hole will be hidden. The fridge vent is a big open hole with a dome over it.

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Old 02-02-2013, 10:01 AM   #4
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Thanks Perry and Rod for your advice. My next question; is the Airstream roof strong enough to support a 180 pound man?
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:37 PM   #5
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Thanks Perry and Rod for your advice. My next question; is the Airstream roof strong enough to support a 180 pound man?
Well I will tell what people think, first what they agree on.

The end caps will NOT support any weight avoid at all cost.

The ribs will easily support a 250 lb man (the rivet lines going side to side).

What people disagree about is if the rest of the roof will support a persons weight, some say yes others say no. It has been reported that they walk anywhere they want on the roofs at the factory and some dealers (I haven't heard any report of the weight of the people doing that though).

Not many mention this but the long Zip Dee awnings also can support a person when closed, makes for the easiest way on and off the roof without a scaffold.
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:37 PM   #6
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air-router

Thanks for the advice regarding walking on the roof. I think I'll stay on my hands and knees for safety.
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:01 PM   #7
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I purchased the WiFi Ranger unit in late summer. I mounted the antenna to the Winegard antenna, ran the cable across the roof attaching it to the edge of the skylight via a drill hole in the edge and a plastic tie (for wind stability), and entered the refrigerator vent and down to the access point of the other wiring. I ended up having to drill in there but it was not the outer skin. I entered the coach on the wall on one side of the refrigerator. Perhaps that will work for you.
I would appreciate your comments on issues you had in routing the wire down through the roof vent to the access panel. I have ordered a WiFi Ranger Sky OEM version with the cabling running from the bottom of the unit. My plan is to drill a 1/2" hole in the refrigerator vent cap to route the wires down into the access panel. This version of the WiFi Ranger comes with a weather boot on the bottom that completely fills the 1/2" hole and it will be sealed and attached to the refrigerator vent cap with stainless steel screws. Any comments you may have for fishing the wire down to the access panel would be helpful. Would also like to know if you used a toggle switch to turn off the 12 volt to the WiFi Ranger when it was not in use.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:10 AM   #8
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When I ran solar cable down the refr vent, I removed the vent cap by drilling out the 6 rivets holding the cap.

You can then easily snake your cable down through the screen between the refrigerator coils and the inside surface of the shell.

Then reinstall the vent cap, using pop rivets and butyl rubber tape to seal.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:32 PM   #9
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I made myself two boards 2 x 4 x 5/8 to use as roof support. It works as it goes between the "rafters" per se.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:55 PM   #10
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I have ordered a WiFi Ranger Sky OEM version with the cabling running from the bottom of the unit. My plan is to drill a 1/2" hole in the refrigerator vent cap to route the wires down into the access panel. This version of the WiFi Ranger comes with a weather boot on the bottom that completely fills the 1/2" hole and it will be sealed and attached to the refrigerator vent cap with stainless steel screws. Any comments you may have for fishing the wire down to the access panel would be helpful. Would also like to know if you used a toggle switch to turn off the 12 volt to the WiFi Ranger when it was not in use.
Hmm. I did not get the sky so there sounds like a bit of a difference; however, I attached the WiFi Ranger titanium to the Winegard mast and then ran the coax across the rooftop to the refrigerator vent. I clipped my way through the screen just enough to get a grommet situated. I had already fed quite a bit of wire through the grommet to it went down the shaft to the bottom. I then looked around at the possible ways to get into the coach. There was a group of wires going toward the front. I was unable to work it in with them so I used another grommet and silicone sealer to fill a drilled small hole for the wiring to the cabin. My unit is the RV kit option they sell so it comes with an AC plug for the inside unit that also powers the antenna on the roof. I just unplug it when I want to turn it off. I did not like to have to drill a hole but it is small and not a serious issue. I have a cabinet at the point of entry and it so happens to be where my TV and other equipment is kept.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:10 PM   #11
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Thanks for your feedback. It was highly recommended that I remove the refrigerator vent to route the cable down so that is now my plan. There are 12 volt wires available to splice into and I plan to mount a rocker switch on the outside panel wall by the refrigerator to turn off the Sky when is not being used.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:54 PM   #12
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Sounds like a plan wolverine. I failed to mention that after feeding the wire down the shaft I made my way off the roof and over to the fridge hatch and worked from there. There is an electrical outlet in there and I ended up drilling into the wall on the left for cabin access then sealed it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:39 AM   #13
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Will the wifi ranger work with IPads?



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Old 02-14-2013, 12:57 AM   #14
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Wifi Ranger

The Wifi Ranger will work with any device that has standard wifi protocols: computer, tablet, smartphone, Ipod Touch, etc. It has several features that allow you to connect to an open or password protected wifi or a smartphone with a hotspot capability. It amplifies the signal and rebroadcasts it with a passprotected signal to your wifi devices. The advantage is that it allows you to pick up signals that your device could not recognize and that is particularly true in many campgrounds that have inadequate signal coverage. It can also be programmed to reconnect if the signal temporarily drops off.
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