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Old 04-11-2015, 09:43 AM   #15
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I installed a See Level in my old Trade Wind since I was installing new holding tanks anyway. I used two conductor, 18ga "door bell" wire. I did shield the stick on circuits with sheet rubber as I was kinda close to the frame rail with my install.

The only trouble I had was "voltage ripple" while connected to 115v AC. My 1999 converter was too old and caused the ripple in the 12v circuits. Think static in the radio. So I upgraded the converter and the ripple went away. The

See Level techs were very good on the phone helping me solve the problem. One thing I learned was See Level requires a very good ground. They want no more than 50 ohms between the instrument connection and any ground. They prefer the ground directly to the battery negative. My trailer was only 2 ohms resistance to ground as I had cleaned the ground connections when I cleaned up the frame.

I did not buy the propane level option.

I did drop the pan on my 86 Limited to replace the dump valves. I did not drop the tanks, they were held up by their toilet, vent, and drain connections. With the pan and valve cover off, I could have easily installed a See Level circuit and the wiring.

I used my floor jack, and bolted a 2x8 to it, and balanced the pan on that. I was able to get the pan down, out, back in, and back up using this method on my driveway.

Go for it!

David
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Old 04-11-2015, 04:52 PM   #16
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David, I had read your thread. How firm did you feel the connections were between the tank and the pipes? Were you holding your breath?

BTW, I almost made a mistake. The 709PH only has a single pole pump switch. I need a 3 pole, as I also have a pump switch in the bathroom. Got a hold of Randy and he stopped the shipment. I need a 709-HP3W, which Randy doesn't have on his website, but can get for me. He suggested I call Garnet Instruments on Monday to confirm that is what I need.
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:57 PM   #17
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The pipe connections to the tank were not the greatest. I was holding my breath. As I recall it is the ABS pipe dropped in to a molded boss with a hose clamp and sealant. I disturbed the shower and bath sink drain pipe connection and it came apart on me. By the grace of God, I was able to reach it through the heat vent outlet below the shower pan, re-apply some caulk. I could just get my small socket on the head of the hose clamp screw and tighten it. The leak stopped. The tank vent pipes are on the curb side in my trailer. I had access to them through the closet floor if I needed to .

My trouble was rough handling of the tanks as I disassembled and re-assembled the new drain manifold and dump valves to the 3" molded openings in the tanks. I was supporting the tanks with my floor jack and 2x12 while I worked on them.

Your job is just cleaning the surface and applying the See Level circuits. The risk of disturbing the tanks is less.

Good catch on the 3 pole switch. My water pump switch is also 3 pole with one switch on the control panel and the other switch in the bathroom. But I purchased just the base model of the See Level. My old Trade Wind is anything but fancy.

David
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:40 AM   #18
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Called Garnett this morning. Model 709-DLP is the unit for those of us with LPG tank gauges.

It has a 3 pole pump switch- for ASes with an additional pump switch in the bath, monitors 3 tanks and TWO lpg tanks.

In addition, they told me that there is NO parasitic drain when the unit is at rest with no display showing, so my power switch mod is NOT needed.

Have a call into Randy for procurement.
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:21 PM   #19
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Come to think of it, my See Level display is only on when I call for the status of the battery or tank levels.

David
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:15 PM   #20
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I got started with the install today. Got the LP tanks calibrated and the fresh water sensor installed and is working correctly; but the voltage readout says 17.2V whilst my multimeter and Tri-Metric read 13.5V. They say the SeeLevel is factory calibrated and shouldn't need re-calibration???? So there must be a way. I sent an email to them.

Now I just have to decide whether to drop the G/B pan or cut an access.......I seem to be having difficulty deciding.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #21
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Was the SeeLevel panel a direct swap out of the Micropulse panel? You are using the existing wires from the Micropulse system?

So you were able to mount the SeeLevel sensor to the water tank through an access hole from inside the trailer? Did you have to remove the fill hose from the water tank for more room?

Got any photos to share?

Kelvin
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:43 AM   #22
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Hi folks. Working on Airstreams is like building a ship in a bottle. There are a lot of tight areas needing work.

My old 86 Limited developed a leak in the fresh water system; just before my planned trip of course. I had the access panel off the tank cover as the water was dripping out of it. I discovered the leak from an old poly butyl tee that had rubbed itself thin against the frame rail. I made a temporary repair.

On my trailer, there is not a way I can see where I could stick a See Level sender circuit on the side of my fresh water tank without dropping the tank cover.

For what's it's worth to your project.

David
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:02 AM   #23
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Ok, pretty much done with the install, with one glitch. The voltmeter on the display unit read 17.2V upon initial plugin, while the TriMetric and my DVOM said 13.4V. Garnet tech support told me how to reset it to a baseline 13.0V from which it should start reading....nope....reads 13.0V all the time, whether I am at 12.5V (with converter unplugged) or 14.2V (when converter is plugged back in). Think I have a bad display unit. We're supposed to have more conversation today.

Anyway...ship in a bottle is RIGHT, David. Yes, Kelvin, I was able to install the fresh sensor through the cutout in the floor in the closet. That one was actually easier than the black and gray. I used a RotoZip to cut a 10" X 16" access hole in the pan. I made my life more difficult by making the hole as small as possible. I still have to cut some Reflectix for the area, fashion my replacement hatch panel, and button it up.

I'll get some photos this morning and post them.
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:13 AM   #24
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David, maybe some pic exchanges could help. I had plenty of room on the tank side to stick 7.5" (of the original 12" sensor) directly above the drain fitting on the FW tank. I actually like it there as I still have a bit of buffer when the gauge says 0% left. I still have 8 gallons left (by measurement) when it hits zero. That's enough to finish the dishes, finish a shower. My system sucks air with one gallon left in the tank, so I have 7 usable gallons at 0%.

I also think I have one of those units where the gray vent may stick down into the tanks too far. I was disappointed when I saw water starting to fill the shower neck at 92% full. But, as I tilted the trailer to give me more room to work under the rear, the water disappeared and as I added more, the gauge eventually showed 100% when the shower drain started to fill. I wonder how it will behave when I am using it normally, instead of running all the faucets at once.
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:26 AM   #25
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I did the conversion and really like the See Level system. Very easy once you find a place to stick on the sensor on each tank. See

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...-a-129739.html

George
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:00 AM   #26
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Here are some pics:

Panel

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Gray Tank

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Black tank

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Access hole

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Old 04-22-2015, 10:47 AM   #27
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In the last photo showing the access are you waste tank covers sheet metal? Maybe just the lighting but it doesn't look like metal. Did you center the cut over where the dump valve shafts stick out though the waste tank cover?

What is the white pipe at the top of the photo? Is it the freshwater drain pipe?

It looks like you ran new wire from the sensors. Did they connect to the existing wires from the sensor area?

Is that a custom frame around the monitor panel? Is the SeeLevel panel smaller than the Micropulse?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 04-22-2015, 12:16 PM   #28
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Kelvin,

Yes galvanized, and a lot thicker material than I thought...tough stuff.

I used Crispy's pic in post #9 as a guide for the cut, but still got into the black dump valve (flange only...no damage to function) with the rotozip....smelled the unique PVC odor and stopped.

In the bottom pic??? the thing you think is a pipe is my gray valve pull handle rod. Is that what you are looking at?

I used 2 of the four wires in each of the existing telephone wires that were there. Sensors come with the blue and black leads on them. I butt connected them to the telephone wires.

The panel is smaller than the Micropulse. I found a brushed stainless looking two gang home light switch plate and cut it with a Dremmel to fit. I kinda screwed it up a bit and didn't get the panel exactly centered. May have to fix that later.
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