120 VAC Outlet for Dometic Refrigerator

[50KIP]

I have a 2009 19' International CCD (aka Bambi) I bought new. Recently my Dometic RM2451 refrigerator no longer was cooling. I was totally out of propane, but it would not switch over to electric as it was switched to "auto." I tried to check out the status of the 120 VAC but was not receiving any power at the refrigerator. I found the three-pronged plug tucked behind the protection cover for the gas heater. It was supposed to be plugged into a wall-mounted outlet. I cannot find the outlet. It is supposed to be left of the unit, 6" up on the wall.

My question is: can anyone with a similar Airstream tell me where the 120VAC outlet is for the refrigerator?

It is quite possible that my Airstream never had an outlet installed and the refrigerator has been running on propane alone for the last four years, only to reveal the problem when my propane tanks ran out for the first time.

Anyone?

[Pahaska]

I have a different model trailer, but the outlet in mine is on the outer wall, above the louvered door. You can't see it without a mirror, just feel for it.

I plugged a strip into my outlet and the fridge into the strip. That gives me a place to plug in my 120v air pump.

I have owned 3 Airstreams and none of them physically matched the wiring diagrams.

[50KIP]

Woo hoo! I found it. It is right where Pahaska said it was, on the outer wall between the two louvered doors. I would never have thought to look there. So I plugged it in and had power to the electric heater element (probably for the first time). Turned frig on and "auto" button lit up. I'll wait and see how well it cools.

There is no way that the three-pronged plug fell out of the socket and then snaked its way behind the heat shield. So for the last four years the frig has been running on propane only, even with the Airstream plugged to shorepower. I bought the Airstream new so it probably a factory oversight.

So I would advise any late model Airstream owner to confirm their refrigerator is in fact getting 120 VAC. You'll never know if it is unplugged as long as you have propane in the tanks.

[50KIP]

For the first time in four years my Dometic 2-way Model RM 2451 refrigerator (refer) is able to run on both propane and 120 Volts AC. Previously it had run only on propane since the 120 VAC was not plugged in (factory oversight). I only noticed the problem when I ran out of propane and there was no 120 VAC for it to switch over to. The refer always tended to over-cool and freeze veggies (but not my beer, suggesting the temp was just under 32). I have been testing the refer operations in both the gas and electric modes with a remote thermometer on the refer floor for the last week. There are several water bottles in the frig and all were frozen solid and the temp reading was as low as 18 degrees Fahrenheit.

I checked the resistance of the thermistor to be 9300 ohms at 22 degrees inside the refer box. I can't find any other items in the service manual to check and am now thinking it is a problem with the circuit board. I don't want to spend $150 for a new board without isolating the problem if it is with the circuit board.

I'm hoping someone can suggest further tests I could do. (Lewster?)

Also, I am wondering if the "Snip-the-Tip" replacement thermistor, which comes with an adjustable thermostat might help. If the refer continues to run in the low 20 degree range IT WILL FREEZE MY BEER!

[Pahaska]

You can get some temperature control by sliding the thermistor up and down on the inside fins.

Also, if the thermistor is not making good contact on the fins, the box will tend to overcool. I have a spring paper clip on my thermister to insure good contact.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by 50KIP

For the first time in four years my Dometic 2-way Model RM 2451 refrigerator (refer) is able to run on both propane and 120 Volts AC. Previously it had run only on propane since the 120 VAC was not plugged in (factory oversight). I only noticed the problem when I ran out of propane and there was no 120 VAC for it to switch over to. The refer always tended to over-cool and freeze veggies (but not my beer, suggesting the temp was just under 32). I have been testing the refer operations in both the gas and electric modes with a remote thermometer on the refer floor for the last week. There are several water bottles in the frig and all were frozen solid and the temp reading was as low as 18 degrees Fahrenheit.

I checked the resistance of the thermistor to be 9300 ohms at 22 degrees inside the refer box. I can't find any other items in the service manual to check and am now thinking it is a problem with the circuit board. I don't want to spend $150 for a new board without isolating the problem if it is with the circuit board.

I'm hoping someone can suggest further tests I could do. (Lewster?)

Also, I am wondering if the "Snip-the-Tip" replacement thermistor, which comes with an adjustable thermostat might help. If the refer continues to run in the low 20 degree range IT WILL FREEZE MY BEER!

I have a listing (somewhere) of the resistance values of the thermistor with regard to the temperature. The test is to remove it from the fridge, immerse in a class if ice water, wait 10 minutes and take a reading. Next, put the t/mistor in open air, measure the air temp and take another resistance measurement and see if the correspond with the chart.

I'll see if I can locate the chart tomorrow.

[50KIP]

Originally Posted by lewster

I have a listing (somewhere) of the resistance values of the thermistor with regard to the temperature. The test is to remove it from the fridge, immerse in a class if ice water, wait 10 minutes and take a reading. Next, put the t/mistor in open air, measure the air temp and take another resistance measurement and see if the correspond with the chart.

I'll see if I can locate the chart tomorrow.

Any luck with finding that chart? My frig floor is 18-22 degrees F.

[DKB_SATX]

You may indeed have an issue with placement and/or the thermistor itself.

I had a problem with my old RM75 freezing things in the refrigerator compartment which I largely eliminated with one of the little battery-operated circulating fans inside the refrigerator compartment. The fridge comes down to temperature faster than it did without the fan as well. That was an easier first step than fiddling with the thermistor and solved my problem.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by 50KIP

Any luck with finding that chart? My frig floor is 18-22 degrees F.

Nope!

Found the Norcold chart.....but of course.....they have different values.

[50KIP]

I've been testing the frig for a couple of weeks. It has been on shore power and frig is set on "Auto" (120 VAC) but it also has been on propane. Temps are always about 20 degrees F no matter where the thermistor is located. Currently it is on the lower half of the second fin, but I have had it dangling free. I think it is running at max all the time.

[richinny]

lew, is this it?:
Capgo - Thermistor Temperature Sensors

[tinbender]

Originally Posted by lewster

Nope!

Found the Norcold chart.....but of course.....they have different values.

Lewster,

I could use that Norcold chart if you want to post it or PM me.

Thanks much.. tb

[lewster]

Nice chart Ricky, but those are not the exact specs, as I recall. What it WILL do, however, is give you an idea of where the resistance values should be for the test temps.

Start with the thermistor at room temperature. While waiting for it to warm up, put ice in a glass and fill with water and stir a bit.

Remove the thermistor from the fridge and let it acclimate to room temp. Take a resistance reading.

Now immerse the thermistor into the glass of ice water and take another resistance reading after a few minutes. The resistance should be in the thousands of ohms for the low temp and in the hundreds of ohms for the high (room) temp.

That will at least give you an idea of the operational parameters of the thermistor. If is open or not within the range....it's probably bad and should be replaced.

[50KIP]

I'll have to put the thermistor in ice water to warm it up (hahaha). This test will take a couple of days and I will get back to you the results. Thanks

[86ss]

hi I have the rm 3800 and only 1 (the left one) green light stays on. During the day all sounds fine but in the evening (dont understand why) I would hear a clicking on and off sound like if something is trying to ignite all night long. I only hear this at night???

So last night I clicked the button to left and all turned off and then switched it back on. Now I have one green (left) and one red (right) light on. I dont hear the clicking anymore.

I am new to this (just bought my Silver Streak a few weeks ago).

Should both lights be green?
How do I set this to run on electricity rather than gas? My trailer is plugged into an AC power source?

Thanks for any help!!!
Dave