Your truck will pull fine!!! Just remember to leave plenty of room when pulling into traffic, and that you need to be thoughtful about how fast you start up or when pulling up hills. Your truck most certainly will be up to the challenge, but will require more time to get you up to speed...
You may want to consider new a new trailer if you are like me... Either time-challenged, or have limited skills in mechanics (I qualify in both). The new trailer warranty has value! FWIW...
I also just put the Prodigy on my new Toyota Tundra and it works great. Went on in a few minutes...
I tow a '69 23foot Safari with a V-8 2001 Tundra with no problems. Total loaded weight of the trailer is around 4000 lbs, but new ones would weigh more. I like vintage trailers and not only because they're lighter, but that's just me. good luck!
Welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.
Your truck should be good to go. You may want to replace the OEM receiver. Not a big deal. You can get a class IV for $200. The factory receiver is a piece of junk. I had the welds fail on 2 of them.
Brian
__________________ SuEllyn & Brian McCabe WBCCI #3628 --- AIR #14872 2005 25' Safari FB (Lucy) with HAHA 2005 Suburban 2500 Quadrasteer (Olivia) & 2004 Suburban 2500 Quadrasteer (Daisy)
I have worked at G.M. Stores for quite a few years now and have some personal experience on this subject. It's not so much about rust and how the unit looks as it is about poor design and fabrication.
I have just replaced the factory hitch on my new to me 06 Suburban for just those reasons. As you can tell from the photos there is a big difference between the two. Notice how much longer the bars at either end are, better to transfer weight to the front axle. Notice also how much heavier the cross bar and receiver opening are. Both important safety considerations. The replacement is a Reese class five, probably a bit of overkill, but I've always felt it is better to have more than you need, than to need more than you have..
Robert,
Who manufactured your replacement hitch and was there any height change up or down from the ground as compared with the factory hitch.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
Hi,
I'm new here and have been looking for an RV for full-timing. It's just me - an almost retired woman and my black Lab. Today I fell in love with the 23' Safari - when I went to look at some class C's. I really like the A/S - it's so classy and high quality as opposed to the lesser construction and decor in the others. I currently have a 2002 GMC SLE shortbed 4x4 pickup with a 5.3 liter V-8 engine and a factory tow package. I love my truck - she's a cream puff, quick, plenty of power (empty) decent mileage and turns on a dime - I'd like to keep it. Is this adequate to safely tow the 23' Safari?
I don't know what the hitch on the truck is - it's whatever was part of the standard package GM put on when the truck was built.
I don't have a lot of experience with trailers - a few U-hauls over the years and a boat trailer - but it was all short distance and the boat doesn't weigh much. But how hard can it be to learn?
Any opinions and advice will be appreciated - advance thanks.
Louisa
Louisa,
Dont worry, your truck can pull the 23' without a problem. That particular truck has a 6000# bumper pull rate, and 8000# if you are pulling a gooseneck or fifthwheel trailer. I have the newer version a 2007 GMC same set up and it is rated at 7000# bumper, 10,000 gooseneck/fifthwheel. I currently pull a 31Ft Soveirgn with mine.
I do have 3 friends who all have the same truck you do except for different years, 02,03,04. They did say that they did have to change their reciever hitch because it was not rated for what it was suppose to be, theirs was a class III, and they needed a IV or V and they had the same cracking problem the others have mentioned on here, so I would suggest you look at a new reciever hitch with at least a class IV rating. If you have a Tractor Supply, or any trailer dealer, camper dealer, they would have the proper hitch and then any licensed mechanic or repair shop can properly install it. A camper sales is going to be the most expensive with U-Haul behined them.
You will definately have to install a brake controller if it is not already there, it is a little box inside your truck to control the trailer brakes. If there is not one you can get one from many places from Tractor Supply to a place like Cabellas.
Hope this is of some help.
Sarge
Last edited by Mel; 07-23-2008 at 03:56 PM.
Reason: fixed quote
Robert,
Who manufactured your replacement hitch and was there any height change up or down from the ground as compared with the factory hitch.
David,
It's a Reese class V, it is within 1 1/2" of the factory height.
Also replaced the factory hitch on our old 95 3/4 Burb. Been well pleased with there products over the years. I did have to replace the 4" drop with a 6 for the haha, because of a difference in the rear suspension on the 06.
Thank you very much to all you nice folks who offered up information and encouragement. Sorry it took me all week to get back to you - I work long hours.
I checked my owners manual and the truck is rated to pull 7200 lbs - thanks for advising me to check that.
I'm a rank newbie at all of this and appreciate being able to ask questions and get such great help here.
Thank you very much to all you nice folks who offered up information and encouragement. Sorry it took me all week to get back to you - I work long hours.
I checked my owners manual and the truck is rated to pull 7200 lbs - thanks for advising me to check that.
I'm a rank newbie at all of this and appreciate being able to ask questions and get such great help here.
Louisa & Jasper Joy
Well, the advice is free, and worth at least what you paid for it...
Something you probably won't think of until too late, but those "jacks" on each corner of your new trailer are not for leveling, but keeping the trailer from moving, you'll need to put something under the lowside tires.
__________________
Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
Well, the advice is free, and worth at least what you paid for it...
Something you probably won't think of until too late, but those "jacks" on each corner of your new trailer are not for leveling, but keeping the trailer from moving, you'll need to put something under the lowside tires.
Well, the best things in life are free!
What do I need for leveling? I suppose the thickness depends on how much the trailer is off level which could vary - so would I need a variety of thicknesses? What do folks use so as not to have to carry a whole bunch of lumber or whatever?
I use Lynx Levelers and build a ramp to match the amount of lift I need to level the trailer. I have two sets which allow me to raise both axles four inches. They do not take up much space when stored.
I use Lynx Levelers and build a ramp to match the amount of lift I need to level the trailer. I have two sets which allow me to raise both axles four inches. They do not take up much space when stored.
Cool! Thanks - all these little things I need to know - this place is such a wealth of information - and I'm so happy to have found it because I know nothing about trailers. I've spent a lot of time on boats (live aboard type 40' sail) and have some basic understanding of the systems, but never had the primary responsibility for dealing with them. So this is all a little scary to be taking on. But at least I won't have to put on my scuba gear to get under the rig!
Louisa & Jasper Joy
Last edited by azflycaster; 07-20-2008 at 10:35 AM.
Reason: fixed quotes
Your truck and OEM hitch will be fine. Rust, while looking poorly, will take far longer than you and I will be around to cause a failure.
However potential failure is something that should be considered and periodic inspection conducted. The attached pictures show my original GM hitch after a 15,000 mile trip to Alaska.
If a hitch fails it will most likely be from cracks and over time enough that periodic inspections should pick them up. You can see from the rust stains along the cracks that the cracks had been there for some time and did not Just Happen.
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