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Old 09-18-2011, 07:33 AM   #57
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Really, how much better could it get?
Maybe some rain here in TX hill country than it would be perfect
or at least 4 more rigs for our non rally get together
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:59 PM   #58
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We tow 28 ft AS w/2011 F-250 6.7 @ highway speeds, gross is about 18,200 lbs. Presently returning to Gulf Coast from 2 month trip from Slidell, La up thru Co, Wy, Mt etc including Glacier, RMNP, GRNP, YNP, & lots of BLM & NF. This trip 9657 miles so far and still have run from Burkburnett, Tx to Slidell remaining (670 - 745 miles depending on route) Avg mpg so far 15.47, added 12.5 gal DEF, one oil chg in Kalispell, Mt. Truck has 37921 miles on it, use as TV only. Absolutely no problems since bought new May 2010. Love the power, but love the ride, exhaust brake, and really big disc brakes better: long steep hills are no concern either direction; don't slow going up and don't overspeed going down. Seldom use brake, just Tow/Haul mode and manual shift easily slows truck/trailer. Traded in 05 6.0 for this truck. Have run diesel for years, cant match mileage/range with gas. Yup oil, fuel, air filters cost $ and so does fuel. I tend to believe you get what you pay for and this truck makes for a really nice tow. Not preaching, selling, or religious bout TVs, just saying; buy what you like, hope you like what you buy, this setup works great for me, and your TV is your decision. Bottom line for me, after 65 years I am still often a slow learner and have found that good decisions come from wisdom, and all too often, wisdom comes from bad decisions. I learned a little bout towing the hard expensive way. Happy towing to ya.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:17 PM   #59
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Did anyone read thru all that to see if Rednax even addressed the increased cost of oil changes, and fuel filters?

I did. Mine are low due to 7.5-15k-mile intervals. And my cost of supplies appears to be lower than those given in post above mine. Really, what does it work out to on a per-mile basis? If one understands a cpm calculation (where total time & miles are contemplated) it's low in any case, except where one trades the vehicle long before economic lifespan is reached. One can do oil analysis to find the longest "best" oil change interval if interested.



So, I don't know if we fit into any of your 3 classifications. We try to do this sensibly, hopefully we do.

Gene


Gene, most fit into the second category wouldn't you say? I would say that includes a TT that is in the possession of the owner over the "life" of a number of TVs.

All of us -- to some extent -- fit all three of those categories. Heck, if it wasn't for Cat One, most vehicle enthusiast sites wouldn't exist. (I'm certainly open to others ideas of how to make sense -- categorize -- such a large number of enthusiasts; they aren't meant to be judgments). And no matter what others decide for themselves, there is a way of drilling down in the numbers surrounding aero aluminum trailers and tow vehicles to find the most economical pair if that is ones' motivation. But only then. My motivation may be not yours, etc.

That others may do otherwise is their business and I apologise if that overly long post came across as critical of others. When I was a kid, a Silver Streak was the same price as the median American house. Not a decision to take lightly, socio-economic status notwithstanding.

I wrote with the idea that someone might find that post useful if approached from my same direction. Re-sale "value" has no part in my scheme, for example. That "value" may be a by-product of many things, but the vehicle pair condition will always be high due to reliability needs (and ordinary pride). But neither will ever fit into "book value" categories of thinking. (Insurance needs to be looked at carefully, for instance).

I would like to buy new. But I'm also not turned on by current A/S trailers and have always enjoyed resto/reno work. So it's easier to pick and choose among the "classics" of the 1972-1990 period. There are already tons of threads/posts on tow rigs, nearly always about new ones. The HP/TQ ratings of diesel trucks past 300HP are ridiculous for any Airstream ever built; there is no improvement in "new" any longer seen that way. Used TVs and used TT's can be well-matched given sufficient motivation. And cheaply, with no compromise of safety, reliability, etc; overall.

What I tried to do, and what Scorpontimo wrote are much the same: the correct vehicle (for the owner and intended use) for the longest period of time. My folks used but one trailer and two TV's over 27-years prior to old age catching up with them. That is my overall model. My father and grandfather no longer felt comfortable using a TT past age 75. If I use that as a guide, then the "expense" is over a long period (I'm in my 50's).

And my experience in restore/renovate (houses, cars, trucks, trailers) is that one had best love what he owns. They'll all need work of some sort. But some will need less. Reliability & longevity count most for us.

Since the trailer is the key to the combo, that long post of mine was a lot of hair-splitting for most folks as this trailer type is the majority of the way to "best" or "ideal". For those whom it wasn't tedious, I'm always looking to learn more from their experience or analyses.

I don't imagine myself alone in having come to despise the throwaway society. Once a trailer was [1] something nice to own, [2] a pleasurable mode of travel and [3] a backstop to the problem of living in hurricane country. With the irrevocable changes of our society the past ten years, those motivations did a priority reversal for us. We no longer wish to be burdened by half-examined choices. Thus, the old trailer is gone, and the more appropriate one is being sought.

The TV is already dead-on.

.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:30 PM   #60
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Ditto on the Excursion. I have a 2000 model V10 and it seems to have more than enough get up and go. The V10's lasts as long as the Diesel but you have to change the plugs every 100K. I think I will go broke.

Perry

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But it does!! it is called the Ford Excursion produced from 2000 to 2005 and came with the gas hog V10, diesel 7.3 & 6.0. And believe me for a burb there is nothing out there that beats the Excursion, I know I have had one for the last 2 years and just traded it for a 2011 F250 with the 6.7 diesel engine, and if Ford still produced the Excursion I would have bought another one. If anyone is wanting an Excursion it is at the ford dealer in Greeneville TN for a resonable price.

Sarge
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:25 AM   #61
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Rednax,
I would like to re-inerate what Gene said, when you compiled this list you did not take into account that oil change/service are done on gas every 3000 miles or 6 months, but on diesels they are done every 7500-10,000 miles which means you have 3 changes on gas to every 1 of a diesel and those figures are not reflected in your graph. Also the injectors do not need changed every 100,000 miles unless they are showing wear, they should however be checked at 100,000 miles and then the mechanic can tell when they need checked again such as next oil change or sooner. I have only 1 that I actually had to change the injectors at 110,000 and that was because it was a fleet maintainace vehicle and was used under seveir/heavy conditions, other than that most I have had lasted until just over the 200,000 mile range.

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Old 09-20-2011, 07:35 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SARGE/AF View Post
Rednax,
I would like to re-inerate what Gene said, when you compiled this list you did not take into account that oil change/service are done on gas every 3000 miles or 6 months, but on diesels they are done every 7500-10,000 miles which means you have 3 changes on gas to every 1 of a diesel and those figures are not reflected in your graph. Also the injectors do not need changed every 100,000 miles unless they are showing wear, they should however be checked at 100,000 miles and then the mechanic can tell when they need checked again such as next oil change or sooner. I have only 1 that I actually had to change the injectors at 110,000 and that was because it was a fleet maintainace vehicle and was used under seveir/heavy conditions, other than that most I have had lasted until just over the 200,000 mile range.

Sarge
The last gas truck I had, an '07 GMC 5.3 Liter, GM recommended, and the in vehicle computer said to change the oil at 10,000 miles if you used synthetic oil. The same is true of the Duramax Diesel if you use synthetic oil.

So, same oil change interval, three times the cost. And then there's the fuel filters you have to buy and change on the Diesel truck that is not required on the gasoline truck.

Diesel trucks cost more to maintain than gasoline trucks.
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:57 AM   #63
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Understanding the various views on tow rigs, and it will still come down to a persons style some area's of the country like to Cad SUV, or range rover,or Lincoln. because a neighbor has one or it is a status symbol. I came across 2 guys couple years ago that had identical trailers 34 ft classic customs, being pulled with top of the line burb.s both black in color one was the pres of the wbcci state and other the treasurer. than there is another group that likes the look of their tow rig they purchase because it fits what they see themselves in , Than a group which many has posted here research for the best mpg, weight cap, reliability.
I like a group not many talk about, The Wow group, wow I cant afford that payment, wow I cant afford the repair. I have a friend who has a new Ford F350 he just spent $3,000 on a banks conversion hope to get a bit more power and mpg. His truck is 1 year new the banks is 2 months new. He had an issue last week bad fuel the truck was towed to a shop had to purge the system flush and replace glow plugs and a sensor total coast $1,300. I had a similar incident last year in New Mexico. I had it towed had the fuel dumped and restarted cost ,$125. that is a good example of why I have my older Truck and no payment I can save that money and use it to travel to all them places I have never been before and I look good going down the road I am not the fastest who wants to pull 80mph anyway 10mpg is just fine service on this old diesel I can do it all myself with out the shop fee's. this is my group and these days I would rather save a buck and still have the reliability and not worry about being stranded on the highway awaiting a wrecker.
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:48 AM   #64
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We tow a 30' Classic with a 2010 one ton RAM dually. ( we once owned a fiver, then saw the light!)

Have towed about 10,000 miles since we received "Brutus" the AS, in March. We can tow uphill at highway speeds ( rarely over 65mph for safety reasons) without missing a beat.

If I were to purchase a new truck, I would buy a one ton SRW. I endorse the extra cargo carrying capacity for all our extra "stuff" in the covered bed of the truck. Someone told me to always buy more truck than I thought we would need, because eventually I would need it!!!! That advice has come true.

Ps....last week we drove the "Going to the Sun Road" in Glacier NP with the dually. Lots of road construction. Narrow roads. The ranger said I "should be ok"??!! That was a "pucker factor" drive. Won't do that again. SRW=ok.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:41 PM   #65
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I didn't say anything about frequency of oil changes (I think) as I may have been misquoted in post #61. Anyway, Toyota has been recommending 5,000 miles as when to change the oil. I would think that with the closer tolerances in modern engines, less carbon and contaminants get into the oil and that's why the increase from 3,000 or 3,500 to 5,000 miles.

I don't recall they said anything about synthetic oil, but I would think that though that oil lasts a long time, you get the same contaminants in real or synthetic oil.

Zigi, we drove part way up the Going to the Sun Road a couple of years ago. Since I was sure it was going to fall off the face of the mountain, I'm surprised it is still there. I have had no desire to return.

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Old 09-21-2011, 02:05 PM   #66
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I use Mobile1 in my Tundra and the dealer recommends oil changes every 7500 miles.
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:13 PM   #67
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In use Mobil 1 also and never asked the dealer.

Richard, how do you deal with the "maintenance" light that comes on at 5,000 miles? I guess it is a good idea to warn you, but I could live without it and the bells that go off when I open the driver's door when the key is in the ignition. I always forget how to turn off the light when I change the oil and have to look it up in the owner's manual, further annoying me.

One of the other perplexing things that come with our Tundra are two light switches that say "door" on them. They turn on or off various lights that come on (or don't) when the door(s) are opened. I'm sure the manual would tell me the difference, but why would I remember that?

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Old 09-21-2011, 02:22 PM   #68
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You can reset the light when it comes on.

Get the odometer on trip "A"
Turn off the ignition
Press and hold the trip button
Turn the key on (not start)- Keep holding button
Light will flash - keep holding button
Turn off key - release button
Start truck - no maintenance light
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:24 PM   #69
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There are 2 switches like you stated. One for the interior lights and one for the light in the cargo area. The alarm system I have requires that they both be activated by the door for some strange reason...

Since I added the cap, the cargo light is pretty useless.

We can compare notes next month in Albuquerque...
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:28 PM   #70
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True. Richard, I'm surprised you can remember that. I'm worried about you collecting too much trivia in your head.

A piece of black electrical tape on the dash when I light comes on that you don't want to look at is something I did on a car a long time ago. The light just liked being on. Like the gas gauge light, I just try to ignore it, but it stares at me.

Gene
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