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Old 10-13-2014, 07:56 PM   #29
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Derek, take a look at these: http://www.solarhome.org/shelterlogi...LzMBoC_4fw_wcB

We are considering one. They sell them locally at AIH. Alaska Tent and Tarp also makes a version.


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Old 10-13-2014, 08:03 PM   #30
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Secondary heater tank heat system- Install a "y " in the furnace ducting. One duct to furnace as normal, one duct to inline fan. I would turn on the inline fine to move the wood or oil warmed air from inside the trailer to the tanks.
I am not completely sure what you are looking to do but if you looking for a way to heat the holding tanks with an auxiliary heat source........

As far as I know the tanks are already heated with one output duct from the furnace, piped under the floor to the tank compartment.

If you add an independent wood, oil, propane or electric space heater, the heat from it will be pulled into the Airstream's furnace air-return and contribute to heating the tank compartment.

If you want a secondary forced air system dedicated to heating the tank compartment, I would think the best place to start is to find the duct going to the tank compartment, hijack it, and blow the heated air from you secondary heat source directly in.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:09 PM   #31
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You've got it, I am concerned that using a secondary heat source the propane furnace will not kick on enough to heat the tanks properly. (I'm thinking the ambient air temp at the thermostat will be plenty warm but the tanks may not be).


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Old 10-13-2014, 08:19 PM   #32
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You've got it, I am concerned that using a secondary heat source the propane furnace will not kick on enough to heat the tanks properly.
So then you could leave the Airstream's furnace set to HEAT and fan set to ON instead of AUTO, running all the time.

If you want to use the secondary heater as your sole heat source, set its thermostat where you want then set the Airstream's furnace to OFF and the fan set to ON instead of AUTO, running all the time.

Either way cabin air will always be flowing into the tank compartment and the cold air forced back into cabin from the tank compartment will kick on the heater thermostat, keeping cabin-temperature air flowing around the tanks.

If it turns out there is not enough cabin airflow to the tanks to keep them above freezing, you could add a booster fan to the tank compartment duct.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:26 PM   #33
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When I had my MH I thought about running all the heat to the basement to keep the tanks warm, and installing register vents in the main floor to heat the main cabin with the basement heat.

That way the basement and the tanks would always be warm. Getting all the heated air first might make the basement a lot warmer than the upstairs, but it wouldn't matter as long as upstairs was warm enough. The worst case might be the fresh water might be warm. (That would save money on water heating. lol)

To do this in the AS one would have to run ducts to the areas not directly over the tanks, seeing as there is no full basement.

Just me, rambling.
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:38 PM   #34
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If you want to use the secondary heater as your sole heat source, set its thermostat where you want then set the Airstream's furnace to OFF and the fan set to ON instead of AUTO, running all the time.
I am absolutely embarrassed that I did not know about the fan only setting. PROBLEM SOLVED. Thank you.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:20 AM   #35
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PROBLEM SOLVED. Thank you.

You are welcome Now..... should it turn out to be only a problem averted, I can share the advice I got growing up in Florida -

"It is time to turn South when white stuff starts falling out of the sky"
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:39 AM   #36
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Another issue to consider: drawing off propane causes the liquid propane to boil to replace the lost pressure. This has a refrigerating effect on the contents of the tank. At winter scout camps in cabins I have seen 200 lb. propane tanks chill down to where the LPG fails to vaporize and the lights and furnace did not work. When outside camping in winter we use gasoline stoves as propane just doesn't perform.
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Old 10-14-2014, 01:37 PM   #37
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Another issue to consider: drawing off propane causes the liquid propane to boil to replace the lost pressure. This has a refrigerating effect on the contents of the tank. At winter scout camps in cabins I have seen 200 lb. propane tanks chill down to where the LPG fails to vaporize and the lights and furnace did not work. When outside camping in winter we use gasoline stoves as propane just doesn't perform.

Yes, below -20 Propane is not reliable! That's why oil (diesel) heat is so popular in remote AK. Luckily, those days are rare for Anchorage, being so close to the ocean seems to keep the real cold away. Although it is still frigid and dark... What I think makes it feel so much colder than Colorado (or anywhere I've been in the lower 48) is there is absolutely no solar heating in the winter. The temperature rises 10 degrees at best from the low. You never have that little peak of sunshine creep in. Colorado's rare -20 days are very short lived. By the time the sun is up a hour you are above 0. Also this, in addition to the ground being frozen, is why our roads are ice/ snow packed all winter up here. So, the propane SHOULD be ok. I did not have any problems with my propane stove the last three years. But, I personally would like a backup/ supplement non-propane heat source just to be safe. Those real cold weeks you don't take risks with heat.


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Old 10-17-2014, 06:53 PM   #38
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This is the stove I am most seriously considering.

http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/defau...ageNumber=1561

It is a diesel drip heater made for marine/ boat use. There are some great videos of the install on YouTube. I like the idea of diesel because It should not have rogue sparks flying out like wood would but also is a dry heat that requires no power (as long as it is gravity fed). I would have an external tank for the diesel. I am torn on venting options. I believe running the pipe through the roof is the most aesthetically pleasing option, but I am petrified concerning drilling a 3 inch circle in my roof. I am also torn on the location. This stove only needs 10 cm of clearance, so it would work in a variety of places, but none are ideal. Has anyone shortened their sitting area cushions?





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Old 11-01-2014, 01:54 PM   #39
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I just wouldn't worry over cutting a hole. Airplanes and boats get patches all the time. And it already has holes in it.


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Old 11-03-2014, 10:11 AM   #40
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I decided never to use the propane heater after I install a woodstove. Last winter a propane leak developed under the AS. If I had a woodstove going I'm pretty sure it would have blown up. Your AS is new and mine is not, but you never know.
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:17 AM   #41
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love those pictures....
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Old 11-27-2014, 06:33 PM   #42
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We are officially staying the winter this year. I opted to do a straw skirting wrapped in a vapor barrier. So far so good! No wood stove this year.
[IMG]DL279323.jpg by waywardcatphoto, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]DL279327-Edit.jpg by waywardcatphoto, on Flickr[/IMG]
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