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Old 09-04-2014, 12:42 PM   #21
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Streamline will be looking for some of your photo's in the monthly photo contests. You have some beautiful scenery in your shots.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:07 PM   #22
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Streamline will be looking for some of your photo's in the monthly photo contests. You have some beautiful scenery in your shots.
I think I have a few good options for this month's contest. I will post up!
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:14 PM   #23
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StreamlineAK:

I was planning on putting in a Little Cod woodstove in our Airstream. I was talking with an insurance agent specializing in RVs as I am changing carriers. I mentioned that I was planning on putting in a wood burning stove. I was told not to do it as I wouldn't be able to get our Airstream insured. I am now reconsidering.

How did you get your Airstream insured with having a wood burning stove?
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:54 PM   #24
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Streamline w/ coal stove was not insured ( other than regular auto insurance when towing) I have not installed a woodstove with the new Airstream yet so I do not have any advise. But, I currently use progressive and they seem to cover anything.


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Old 10-05-2014, 04:31 PM   #25
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Snow

[IMG]DL059280.jpg by waywardcatphoto, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:38 PM   #26
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Ok, it is now getting to the teens at night AND we still haven't ironed out the best plan for winter. We are still highly considering leaving for a few months. We really wanted to test the trailer a little in the cold before making any decisions. The propane works great, but in a cold winter, it's not going to be cost effective. In a warm winter (even Colorado temps) it would be just fine. I have some really good ideas for a secondary heat, I'm hoping some engineers might be on here to review.

Secondary heater tank heat system- Install a "y " in the furnace ducting. One duct to furnace as normal, one duct to inline fan. I would turn on the inline fine to move the wood or oil warmed air from inside the trailer to the tanks. Sourcing air from the from the open area near the heater under the seating). Anyone know how it could effect the heater if the fan was accidental left on while the furnace was going?

I've winterized the outdoor shower and I was thinking that could be a great place for a fresh air inlet if needed ( if the stove doesn't use a double wall/flue system for fresh air). It seems I could run a very narrow ducting from the stove install location to exit the outdoor shower. This way it doesn't permanently alter the trailer. I don't believe a new outdoor shower would not be expensive in case I wanted to remove the whole system.

What do you think?






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Old 10-07-2014, 01:08 PM   #27
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Another idea: a tank temperature monitor. I had two ideas. The first is getting a basic wireless home weather station and removing the tank cover then placing the wireless receiver next to the tank. My second idea was dropping a wireless pool temp gauge in the black tank, but I have concerns on loosing it every time I empty the black tank as well as clogging/ valve concerns. Any other ideas?


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Old 10-13-2014, 05:52 PM   #28
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Haven't really checked into this, but is there a wired system where you could drill a small hole somewhere near top of gray and black tanks for tank water temp sensor? I just purchased land in Ninilchick, AK and hope to get my Airstream motorhome up there and full time once I retire in a couple of years. I'm wondering how well the motorhome will do in those temps. Really hoping to get some sort of 'garage' built to keep out the winds and snow, but don't know if I'll be able to get it all sorted out 1st summer. Loved the Streamline thread, will be sure to follow along your current thread. Looked through your Flickr account, some AWESOME photos!
Thanks, Derek
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:56 PM   #29
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Derek, take a look at these: http://www.solarhome.org/shelterlogi...LzMBoC_4fw_wcB

We are considering one. They sell them locally at AIH. Alaska Tent and Tarp also makes a version.


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Old 10-13-2014, 07:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StreamlineAK View Post

Secondary heater tank heat system- Install a "y " in the furnace ducting. One duct to furnace as normal, one duct to inline fan. I would turn on the inline fine to move the wood or oil warmed air from inside the trailer to the tanks.
I am not completely sure what you are looking to do but if you looking for a way to heat the holding tanks with an auxiliary heat source........

As far as I know the tanks are already heated with one output duct from the furnace, piped under the floor to the tank compartment.

If you add an independent wood, oil, propane or electric space heater, the heat from it will be pulled into the Airstream's furnace air-return and contribute to heating the tank compartment.

If you want a secondary forced air system dedicated to heating the tank compartment, I would think the best place to start is to find the duct going to the tank compartment, hijack it, and blow the heated air from you secondary heat source directly in.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:09 PM   #31
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You've got it, I am concerned that using a secondary heat source the propane furnace will not kick on enough to heat the tanks properly. (I'm thinking the ambient air temp at the thermostat will be plenty warm but the tanks may not be).


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Old 10-13-2014, 07:19 PM   #32
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You've got it, I am concerned that using a secondary heat source the propane furnace will not kick on enough to heat the tanks properly.
So then you could leave the Airstream's furnace set to HEAT and fan set to ON instead of AUTO, running all the time.

If you want to use the secondary heater as your sole heat source, set its thermostat where you want then set the Airstream's furnace to OFF and the fan set to ON instead of AUTO, running all the time.

Either way cabin air will always be flowing into the tank compartment and the cold air forced back into cabin from the tank compartment will kick on the heater thermostat, keeping cabin-temperature air flowing around the tanks.

If it turns out there is not enough cabin airflow to the tanks to keep them above freezing, you could add a booster fan to the tank compartment duct.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:26 PM   #33
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When I had my MH I thought about running all the heat to the basement to keep the tanks warm, and installing register vents in the main floor to heat the main cabin with the basement heat.

That way the basement and the tanks would always be warm. Getting all the heated air first might make the basement a lot warmer than the upstairs, but it wouldn't matter as long as upstairs was warm enough. The worst case might be the fresh water might be warm. (That would save money on water heating. lol)

To do this in the AS one would have to run ducts to the areas not directly over the tanks, seeing as there is no full basement.

Just me, rambling.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:38 PM   #34
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If you want to use the secondary heater as your sole heat source, set its thermostat where you want then set the Airstream's furnace to OFF and the fan set to ON instead of AUTO, running all the time.
I am absolutely embarrassed that I did not know about the fan only setting. PROBLEM SOLVED. Thank you.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:20 AM   #35
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PROBLEM SOLVED. Thank you.

You are welcome Now..... should it turn out to be only a problem averted, I can share the advice I got growing up in Florida -

"It is time to turn South when white stuff starts falling out of the sky"
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:39 AM   #36
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Another issue to consider: drawing off propane causes the liquid propane to boil to replace the lost pressure. This has a refrigerating effect on the contents of the tank. At winter scout camps in cabins I have seen 200 lb. propane tanks chill down to where the LPG fails to vaporize and the lights and furnace did not work. When outside camping in winter we use gasoline stoves as propane just doesn't perform.
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:37 PM   #37
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Another issue to consider: drawing off propane causes the liquid propane to boil to replace the lost pressure. This has a refrigerating effect on the contents of the tank. At winter scout camps in cabins I have seen 200 lb. propane tanks chill down to where the LPG fails to vaporize and the lights and furnace did not work. When outside camping in winter we use gasoline stoves as propane just doesn't perform.

Yes, below -20 Propane is not reliable! That's why oil (diesel) heat is so popular in remote AK. Luckily, those days are rare for Anchorage, being so close to the ocean seems to keep the real cold away. Although it is still frigid and dark... What I think makes it feel so much colder than Colorado (or anywhere I've been in the lower 48) is there is absolutely no solar heating in the winter. The temperature rises 10 degrees at best from the low. You never have that little peak of sunshine creep in. Colorado's rare -20 days are very short lived. By the time the sun is up a hour you are above 0. Also this, in addition to the ground being frozen, is why our roads are ice/ snow packed all winter up here. So, the propane SHOULD be ok. I did not have any problems with my propane stove the last three years. But, I personally would like a backup/ supplement non-propane heat source just to be safe. Those real cold weeks you don't take risks with heat.


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Old 10-17-2014, 05:53 PM   #38
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This is the stove I am most seriously considering.

http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/defau...ageNumber=1561

It is a diesel drip heater made for marine/ boat use. There are some great videos of the install on YouTube. I like the idea of diesel because It should not have rogue sparks flying out like wood would but also is a dry heat that requires no power (as long as it is gravity fed). I would have an external tank for the diesel. I am torn on venting options. I believe running the pipe through the roof is the most aesthetically pleasing option, but I am petrified concerning drilling a 3 inch circle in my roof. I am also torn on the location. This stove only needs 10 cm of clearance, so it would work in a variety of places, but none are ideal. Has anyone shortened their sitting area cushions?





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Old 11-01-2014, 12:54 PM   #39
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I just wouldn't worry over cutting a hole. Airplanes and boats get patches all the time. And it already has holes in it.


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Old 11-03-2014, 09:11 AM   #40
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I decided never to use the propane heater after I install a woodstove. Last winter a propane leak developed under the AS. If I had a woodstove going I'm pretty sure it would have blown up. Your AS is new and mine is not, but you never know.
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