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Old 11-14-2009, 04:35 PM   #1
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Controlling humidity

I've read a lot of posts on various threads about humidity and condensation when using the trailers, particularily in the winter months. Does that moisture really cause a lot of havoc on the interiors/floors/ect?

I'm basically full-timing it through the week in this thing for work. I have noticed a time or two water droplets forming on the metal trim on the ceiling. What's the best way to control this? It's myself and my cats in it.

Thanks
Tony
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Old 11-14-2009, 04:56 PM   #2
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Hi Tony. I don't think this really is an issue that contributes to floor problems. It becomes a hindrance to seeing out when moisture covers the windows in the morning. I solve it by opening a window away from where I sleep, turning a latch and letting the window rest back on the crosswise latch. It's open an inch at the most but lets some of the moisture from your breath equalize with the outside air.
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:10 PM   #3
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You can also run the furnace and AC at the same time.

Careful adjustments of the thermostats, allow you to keep warm, and still kill the excess moisture.

Andy
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:02 PM   #4
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That is what I do except I use an electric heater with a temp control on it.It works very well.I also run the bathroom vent to take out whatever air there is also to circulate.
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catman6 View Post
...Does that moisture really cause a lot of havoc on the interiors/floors/ect?...
it could take YEARS 2 impact the subfloor, even then one MIGHT not connect these 2 issues.

window TREATMENTS, fuzzy walls might show changes in a short time frame.

the PRIMARY issue is fabric/upholstery/foam/mattress/bedding.

MOLD/mildew and the associated ODORS and STAINS can develop quickly UNDER stuff...

or BEHIND items touching the inner skin.

ask me how i know this?

and it happens in MODERATE temps/seasons too, where relative humidity is high enough.
____________

so LOTS of turning cushions, pulling things AWAY from the walls/windows...

or WARMING under those trouble spots will help.
____________

LIFTING/placing the mattress ON a vented layer (latice board or custom pad) will help too...

search the web for mattress moisture, with the term marine or boat or rv used to trim the hits...

the issue is real, frequent, happens fast and can be prevented.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:35 PM   #6
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Living on the southeastern coast, we are all too familiar with year round humidity issues. We have been running a dehumidifier in our trailer year round while it sits awaiting the next trip. The musty smell is gone, the wood cabinet doors now shut as they should, and the fabric type stuff like mattresses and curtains stay dry and free of odor. The dehumidifier sits on the kitchen counter and drains into the sink. It keeps the interior of the trailer in the 50 to 55% relative humidity range. What amazes me, as sealed up as these trailers appear to be, is the amount of moisture that is removed consistently.
A dehumidifier may be something to look into to control your condensation. The unit does give off a little heat as it runs (not a problem in the winter) and the one we have is noisy (is a problem if you are living in there) but I imagine you could find a quiet unit.
Good luck.
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:45 PM   #7
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I've used dehumidifiers for years in all of out RV's. We just bought a $150 unit from Lowes to control the wet in our 34'er. They will pull out GALLONS of water from an empty trailer each week here in the south. Summer camping in the south it helps keep the damp musty smells out also

The best solution is to add a thru-the-floor drain and let-er-run!
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post

The best solution is to add a thru-the-floor drain and let-er-run!
Is there is a potential problem with letting it drain into the kitchen sink, into the gray tank and then to the ground? I hestiate to put another penetration in the floor and belly pan and didn't figure it would hurt anything running through the drain pipes. Any negatives I am missing?
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Is there is a potential problem with letting it drain into the kitchen sink, into the gray tank and then to the ground? I hestiate to put another penetration in the floor and belly pan and didn't figure it would hurt anything running through the drain pipes. Any negatives I am missing?
Thanks,
My '77 had a vent below the old univolt location, thats where I routed the drain. My SOB has no such location so I use the shower. It's hooked to a septic system so I can leave the gray tank open. The 34', well, I just spent a month FIXIN holes in the floor and Ms HiHo put the nix on drillin' a new one for the drain...guess what happens if you hook up and haul off and the dehumidifier tank is 1/2 full?

Big-o-sloshin mess
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:21 PM   #10
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well these trailers aren't really sealed up.

so we are just keeping a differential with the humidity issue.

still dehumidifiers are a good option.

the FRIDGE has a drain tube through/near the floor and into a wheel well on many units.

so one could tie the dehumidifier INTO this existing drain.

it's NOT a big tube and there is always the risk of it plugging up.

but it is an option.

one could also run a drain into the water heater compartment and out side.
_______________

this all assume a constant supply of electricity and IF juice is available...

i have used THESE for years reliably.

Marine and Boating Products by Davis

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=359695

(read the reviews on the website)

technically these devices are NOT dehumidifiers...

basically they RAISE the air temps in an enclosed space with LOWERS the relative humidity...

and the temp differential creates a small current/draft for air movement.

once the humidity is LOWER relative to air temp, STUFF doesn't grow.

is is somewhat like using a LIGHT BULB, but without an element to fry, or glass to break or bulb to replace.

these gizmos are also somewhat like the elements in FOOD dehydrators...

i've had one of the air-dryr units for 20+ years, it still works great.

the goldenrods are only 12 watts and UL approved.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:09 PM   #11
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I've been sailing for years, we light the kerosene lantern works wonders in a boat.

Since we're rv'g we light a candle about the same results, I suggested this to others and they noticed the difference.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:26 PM   #12
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I've been sailing for years, we light the kerosene lantern works wonders in a boat.

Since we're rv'g we light a candle about the same results, I suggested this to others and they noticed the difference.

The candle idea sounds great and romantic too!
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Old 11-22-2009, 10:14 PM   #13
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Romance?! UGH!!!

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Originally Posted by frankandsue View Post
The candle idea sounds great and romantic too!
Considering it's just the cats and I, I don't need to worry about romance LOLI like the idea of the candle/lantern burning, but with cats (they get on everything) I don't need to come home to BBQ Putties & a crispy trailer. Any other ideas? It rained in here again (See "It rained INSIDE! GRRRRR!!" thread for all I've done)
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Old 11-22-2009, 10:38 PM   #14
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Considering it's just the cats and I, I don't need to worry about romance LOLI like the idea of the candle/lantern burning, but with cats (they get on everything) I don't need to come home to BBQ Putties & a crispy trailer. Any other ideas? It rained in here again (See "It rained INSIDE! GRRRRR!!" thread for all I've done)
Running the AC and the furnace at the same time, usually takes care of the issue.

The trick is to get the thermostats set correctly so that the AC does not run all the time.

Andy
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