Welcome to the AF Tinker.
If you do a search, there are lots of threads dealing with this subject.
I have the Clipper, which may or may not be close to the same plumbing installation as the Cutter.
As mentioned above, open the exterior Hot Water tank door and remove the drain plug after relieving the pressure by releasing the boiler plug on the top of the tank.
There is no
anode rod in an Atwood aluminium tank because of the interaction of the metals
Under the hall wardrobe, behind a false drawer front, you will find the bypass valves for the water heater. A little time looking at them will help you understand which ones you must change. Mark the information on the cabinet interior, so that next year it is simple to do.
There will also be a drain, located on my Clipper in the sewer bay, that drains the supply line to the hotwater tank.
Open all drains and the hotwater tank drain plug and use your compressed air to blow out the water lines. Do not connect the air line to the system, but only hold the airgun loosely to the inlet. When you have the water moved out, then you can apply a bit more air volume with all the taps and valves open.
Use RV antifreeze to flush thru the system to protect the filter trap at the pump which will still hold water.
Some info here.
Any place water might be must be protected. That includes the sewer pipe between the dump valve and the cap. I remove the cap for winter storage just to be safe as it is exposed to full weather extremes.
Originally Posted by AS-Tinker
I am currently trying to winterize a 1998 cutter diesel 35 with slide.
thanks in advance.