winterize 1998 cutter water heater

[AS-Tinker]

I am currently trying to winterize a 1998 cutter diesel 35 with slide.
The owners manual refers to a water heater drain valve. Does anyone
know where it is, pictures would be great, if not just a text explanation.

Also do these have an annode in the water heater.

thanks in advance.

[HowieE]

If you open the door and look at the heater from the outside of your rig you will see a plug bottom center of the tank. That is the drain. Above that you should see what looks like another plug. That is the adenoid.

Now that said go in the trailer and and look at the back of the water heater. If you see a connection between the input and output connection and valving that is the winterizing bypass. If you have a bypass you can isolate the heater when you introduce the anti freeze and use about 1 1/2 gallons to fill the system instead of 7 gallons if you have to fill the heater.

If you do not have a bypass consider having one installed.

[masseyfarm]

Welcome to the AF Tinker.

If you do a search, there are lots of threads dealing with this subject.

I have the Clipper, which may or may not be close to the same plumbing installation as the Cutter.

As mentioned above, open the exterior Hot Water tank door and remove the drain plug after relieving the pressure by releasing the boiler plug on the top of the tank.

There is no anode rod in an Atwood aluminium tank because of the interaction of the metals.

Under the hall wardrobe, behind a false drawer front, you will find the bypass valves for the water heater. A little time looking at them will help you understand which ones you must change. Mark the information on the cabinet interior, so that next year it is simple to do.

There will also be a drain, located on my Clipper in the sewer bay, that drains the supply line to the hotwater tank.

Open all drains and the hotwater tank drain plug and use your compressed air to blow out the water lines. Do not connect the air line to the system, but only hold the airgun loosely to the inlet. When you have the water moved out, then you can apply a bit more air volume with all the taps and valves open.

Use RV antifreeze to flush thru the system to protect the filter trap at the pump which will still hold water.

Some info here.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...tml#post919490

Any place water might be must be protected. That includes the sewer pipe between the dump valve and the cap. I remove the cap for winter storage just to be safe as it is exposed to full weather extremes.

Dave

Originally Posted by AS-Tinker

I am currently trying to winterize a 1998 cutter diesel 35 with slide.
thanks in advance.

[AS-Tinker]

Thanks guys for your replies. However it seems the Cutter is a breed unto itself.

There are no drains or plugs in the exterior water heater bay. Just the safety valve.

[HowieE]

Could you post a picture of the outside of the heater?

[masseyfarm]

On page I-III it will show your water heater.
http://www.airstream.com/files/libra...8c24bec252.pdf

The only drain on the Atwood water heater will be a nylon plug on the left side lower. Release the boiler safety relief valve on the top side to allow venting.

The winter low-point drains should be at the sewer/city water compartment which are combined in one compartment on the Cutter. (separate on the Clipper)

Dave

[HowieE]

An illustration may not show what we are looking for. A picture would help as that illustration looks like the heater used in all RVs