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JourneytoRet · 03-07-2013, 09:28 AM

well, we're ready to add water to the mix...

i have a pressure regulator between the house hose and water inlet to the MH.

is there any protective device to prevent a dumb, first-timer from applying heat to the water heater without water and burning out the heating element?

looks like i should sanitize the water tanks?

any recommended startup procedure for the commode?

thanks!

mandolindave · 03-07-2013, 09:51 AM

Make sure water is coming out of the faucets when you turn on the hot valves to on position. That is an indication that there is water it the heater. BUT ALSO
FIRST You must make sure that the winter bypass( if you have that ) of the water heater is set up to the normal configuration. Normal is where the valve going int the heater ( on the bottom ) is on. AND the valve letting water out ( on the top) are open. The valve between them should be off. that is the simple version
Jeff will give you an in depth answer now.

jdalrymple · 03-07-2013, 09:57 AM

Welcome to the forums.

Open a open both a hot and cold water faucet and let them run until no more air pockets blast their way out.

If the rig has been stored winterized, the water heater may be in the bypass mode.
This bypass is a set of three valves that effectively remove the water heater from the plumbing to make winterization simpler.

There should be valve to tun off the cold water inlet to the water heater, another that closes the outlet from the heater, and a third in a cross over pipe between the two.

To prepare the water heater for use, open the inlet and outlets, and close the crossover.

Again, assuming things are "normal", a valve handle turned with the piping is open, and one with the handle across the piping is close.

If you are sure the bypass is set for use, again allow a hot faucet to run until the air is gone. This will insure the tank is full and not burn out the water heater.

As for the commode, leave the lid down and open the valve and wait for the air to purge. With the lid up, you and walls will get a splash of water.....

Good Luck,

JD

masseyfarm · 03-07-2013, 10:00 AM

On my Clipper there is a rocker switch on the side panel of the bathroom sink which controls the propane fired Hot Water Tank. Your switch should be in the same area, but I believe it is on the wall above sink?????
My CLIPPER is also equipped with a heat exchanger to heat domestic hot water from the engine coolant heat. You may not have that??????

There should be a pressure regulator on your unit?????

Unless your Hot Water Tank has been updated for a heating element from shore power, it should only have LPG heat.

Sanitize the water tanks with household bleach. Follow instructions on the bleach bottle.

Add water.

Dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by JourneytoRet

well, we're ready to add water to the mix...

i have a pressure regulator between the house hose and water inlet to the MH.

is there any protective device to prevent a dumb, first-timer from applying heat to the water heater without water and burning out the heating element?

looks like i should sanitize the water tanks?

any recommended startup procedure for the commode?

thanks!

JourneytoRet · 03-07-2013, 10:42 AM

thanks for the info and advice, i am becoming armed and dangerous and can't wait to see water in the MH. and maybe take my first hot shower (in the MH!).

mandolindave · 03-07-2013, 12:25 PM

I forgot to remember, to remind you not to forget to make sure you had propane. ( kidding )

Bruce B · 03-07-2013, 12:34 PM

We left 3 weeks ago from RI on a little jaunt with our Bambi to Florida, for some time away from the snow. I had to de-winterize (summerize?) the trailer the morning we left. I got everything ready and hit the road. Once in Florida and at a site with electric I switched off the propane to the water heater and hit the rocker for the electric heating element. Next morning I took a cold shower

, I quickly realized that I had forgotten to throw the breaker to the hot water heater back on! This is something I had turned off as a precaution against someone inadvertently hitting the rocker while winterized and destroying the heater element....
Never again!
Bruce

masseyfarm · 03-07-2013, 02:49 PM

That cold shower reminded you of RI winter rain?????????

Dave

Dorsal · 03-07-2013, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce B

We left 3 weeks ago from RI on a little jaunt with our Bambi to Florida, for some time away from the snow. I had to de-winterize (summerize?) the trailer the morning we left. I got everything ready and hit the road. Once in Florida and at a site with electric I switched off the propane to the water heater and hit the rocker for the electric heating element. Next morning I took a cold shower

, I quickly realized that I had forgotten to throw the breaker to the hot water heater back on! This is something I had turned off as a precaution against someone inadvertently hitting the rocker while winterized and destroying the heater element....
Never again!
Bruce

You should have heard the vile language coming from our nice little wet bath that morning. I thought maybe an alligator had bit him in the b@!!s or something.

masseyfarm · 03-09-2013, 09:45 PM

This is the information that is included in my, and should be in your, owners manual.

This is the time of year we should review this procedure after your RV has not been used for some time.

Dave

"SANITIZING
Potable water systems require periodic maintenance to deliver a consistent flow of fresh water. Depending
on use and the environment the system is subject to, sanitizing is recommended prior to storing and before
using the water system after a period of storage. Systems with new components, or ones that have been
subjected to contamination, should also be disinfected as follows:
1. Use one of the following methods to determine the amount of common household bleach needed to
sanitize the tank.
A) Multiply "gallons of tank capacity" by 0. 13; the result is the ounces of bleach needed to
sanitize the tank.
B) Multiply "Liters of tank capacity" by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to
sanitize the tank.
2. Mix into solution the proper amount of bleach within a container of water.
3. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
4. Open all faucets (Hot & Cold) allowing the water to run until the distinct odor of chlorine is detected.
5. The standard solution must have four (4) hours of contact time to disinfect completely. Doubling the
solution concentration will allow for contact time of one (1) hour.
6. When the contact time is completed, drain the tank. Refill with potable water and purge the plumbing of
all sanitizing solution.
NOTE: The sanitizing procedure outlined above is in conformance with the approved procedures of RVIA
ANSI A 119.2 and the U.S. Public Health Service."

JourneytoRet · 03-10-2013, 07:00 AM

Ok, this was tougher than i thought... refer to the attached pic. i added the pressure regulator and then the hose (pipe if you live in the south!). turned on the water slowly. didn't get any water from any faucet within a few minutes so i turned off the water hose. did notice the generator changing sound when i turned on the water hose - coincidence?

anyway, what knobs do i need to turn in order to get water, let alone hot, to the coach?

TG Twinkie · 03-10-2013, 09:26 AM

Based on the 5 gallon bucket in the pic. That is one BIG water heater.

masseyfarm · 03-10-2013, 09:54 AM

Your owners manual gives this detail.

http://www.airstream.com/files/libra...653fd83d5d.pdf

Dave

AIRSTREAM 360 XC LAND YACHT OWNERS MANUAL
G-5

WATER SYSTEM - SELF-CONTAINED
Most plumbing functions are accomplished in the plumbing utility compartment on the roadside of your
motorhome. To fill your water tank, hook up a garden hose to the city water inlet then open the water tank
fill valve. The water level can be monitored on your control panel above the range or the tank can be filled
until water is expelled out of the tank overflow and is seen running on the ground under the vehicle.
NOTE: Once the water level has reached the height of the overflow, water will continue to be
expelled for a few minutes after the fill valve is closed.
If it is more convenient for you, a water fill is also located on the side in the utility compartment. As noted
above, water will be expelled from an overflow valve for a short time once the tank is full and the fill hose
has been removed.
Turn water heater by-pass valves to normal flow. Access to the single lever valve is from inside, opening
the cabinet door directly below the kitchen sink and lowering the hinged access door on the back wall of
the cabinet. If the valve handle is horizontal it is in the normal flow position.
Open the hot side of the galley or lavatory faucet and turn on the water pump switch located on the monitor
panel. For some time the open faucet will only sputter. This is because the water heater is being filled and
air is being pushed out through the lines. Once the water heater is full a steady stream of water will come
from the faucet. Now open a cold faucet. It will sputter for a short time, but will soon expel a steady stream.
All other faucets can now be opened until all air is expelled.
Once the system is filled with water and the faucets closed, the water pump will shut off. When a faucet is
opened the pump will come back on automatically. If the faucet is just barely open it is normal for the
pump to cycle on and off rapidly.
CAUTION: The water pump must be turned off when hooked up to city water supply and when you

leave your Airstream unattended.

Wazbro · 03-10-2013, 10:54 AM

I can't read the labels where the hose is hooked up, but the hose fitting over the sewer hose storage door is a typical city water fitting with built in regulator and check valve.

Also you should get a "water hose" (normally white, sometimes blue) instead of a garden hose for regular drinking water use.

masseyfarm · 03-10-2013, 11:51 AM

I agree. It looks like you are hooked to the black tank flush?????????

This is a picture of Adam's 96 which looks somewhat similar.

and another of Bill's

from this thread. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...ml#post1070873

Dave

JourneytoRet · 03-11-2013, 07:35 AM

ok, so if i understand this correctly - the procedure above is to fill the MH onboard water tank and requires the use of the MH water pump to provide pressure, right?

but if i want to connect to a potable water supply at the campsite, using a white potable-rated line: where do i connect and how do i valve this so the campsite provides water and pressure?

masseyfarm · 03-11-2013, 11:01 AM

I know, "THE FIRST TIME IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT"! but it helps if you read the instructions.

You are hooked to the black water flush. Some of the decals appear to be missing so neatly cut some white duct tape and mark all unidentified positions with a black felt marker pen for future reference.

Reread the owners manual instructions in the previous post #13.

On the upper left of your service panel is a valve the says -- "TURN VALVE TO FILL TANK"

Hook up your water hose to the street water inlet, not the black tank flush and, to fill the tank, open the valve. To use street water pressure, leave the tank valve closed and the pump off.

I see you are missing your hand held shower wand. For your information, this is a standard hand shower available at any hardware store.

The service bay on this and most motorhomes today have both the fresh water and the sewer water in the same bay. I am not a fan of this because of the possibility of contamination. Airstream had a better idea with the Class A CLIPPER, where the fresh water bay was completely separated from the the sewer bay. No chance of contamination.

Be safe and keep you fresh water area clean and take care not to splash sewer water near your fresh water inlet. A spray bottle of bleach might be a good addition to store in that bay.