Power Gear Electronic Leveling System

[PSchw]

Looks like I getting some trouble from the leveling system. All 4 corners look OK so no oil or so.
Now my front levelers do not come out.
I hit auto-level and the rear lift the rig and it stop showing it leveled which it is. But I never had the front not coming out.
I also sinks with time so I re-level it and hitting the auto leveling button again retract the rear jacks.
The panel acted strangely but me not real knowing what I am doing and it always did worked some how I left it alone.
Any body with some inside? Is it possible the panel which I assume is the control unit is bad?
Looking forward to some replies.
Peter

[bobmiller1]

Have you tried to level the motor home manually ? If you can I would inspect the leveling head, usually located on the roadside ceiling of the basement, middle area. Also being that you are bleeding down I would manually actuate each leveler at a time...make sure the reservoir is full before. The rear leveler jacks are larger as they lift more weight and they have grease fittings that periodically need grease, helps to prevent leaks. Good luck, Bob

[israndy]

My only complaint with the levelers is it takes the RV to the same NOT level position each time. I can tell by the shower not draining. Got a bubble level and if I manually do it, no problems in the shower (and thus the fridge). Need to figure out how to calibrate it. This is my first leveler equipped RV so I don't know much about them at all. When do they get grease? How to I check the reservoir? Good luck Peter

-Randy

[PSchw]

For me it is the first too. I found the tank. I noticed when it was leveled it would change with times you could hear the rear leveler sagging down. There possible so internal seals leaking as it look that the rear forced down and up and the front returned by springs.
I wonder if anybody here on the forum has worked on them or has a good shop who knows what they are doing on it.
Peter

[PSchw]

Still leveler problems I got a quote to replace them $1,300.00 each and looks like I have problems with both rear once.
There are so many different from power gear and somebody sprayed over the levelers serial and type sign so I don't know the power gear number.

[israndy]

Where are you looking for the Serial and Type? I can photograph mine, we probably have the same setup.

-Randy

[Big Blue Rv]

do any of you know where the power gear leveler control unit is located?
Its not near the fluid reservoir and i cant find it under the coach anywhere...
My levelers wont go down at all as the "engage neutral" light on the touch pad comes on when the system is on. The reservoir is full. I replaced the brake switch (by the rear axle) per freightliner, but that did nothing. Thanks

[masseyfarm]

My control box is located on the ceiling of the basement, between the frame rails, forward of the fresh water tank.

Dave

[Big Blue Rv]

Found mine- in the ceiling of the 2nd bay near the center of the coach on the drivers side.

[israndy]

Has anyone figured out how to calibrate level using our system? (did I ask that already?) Mine is not level when run on automatic.

-Randy

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by israndy

Has anyone figured out how to calibrate level using our system? (did I ask that already?) Mine is not level when run on automatic.

-Randy

Mine neither, it always ends up low in the front and low on the curb side.

[Big Blue Rv]

mine is "semi " automatic. I extend until all feet touch (sometimes with a board under the lowest point or side if necessary) and then use the arrow keys to center it.

[PSchw]

I got mine finally fixed.
One was leaking changed the hydraulic piston rear pass anger side.
The it would not come out at all anymore. I have a mobile RV service look at good guy know what they doing at least more so then I.
The dump valve was bad $400 I got a new one installed and still not working.
The gear in the gear pump was broken too. Got a new "modified" pump installed and another $800 latter everything works fine.
Left park went to Jojoba Hill RV Resort leveled again and the rear diver side piston broke of the frame.
Anybody ever saw this?



I had to brake it off completely to avoid it to fall off driving.
The welds to not look to good to me looks like another Airstream rush job.
Peter

[J. Morgan]

The welds are not worth a crap.

I cant say if the guy was in a hurry or not, but taking this as evidence, he can't weld.

If you dot get it hot it isn't really a weld. There is really zero penetration.


Superat stultitia.

[SteveH]

Mine are also welded on, but it's just the brackets that are welded on, and then the actual jacks are bolted to the brackets.

[PSchw]

Yes the bracket welded on the frame is what broke off.
That never shut happen sloppy weld I guess.
Peter

[SteveH]

I wonder if possibly the coach wasn't lifted too high and the wheels allowed to slide. That for sure would rip the bracket off the frame.

[J. Morgan]

Welding is a cohesive process, not an adhesive process. "Welds" on top of the parent metal don't work, even if they LOOK "pretty" on first glance.




Superat stultitia.

[israndy]

What is stronger than welding? Bolts, pop-rivets? How should metal be attached? Or is it something about this weld? I know you said it's not adhesive to weld, so it's not just the surface that is being attached in a weld, the whole metal of both pieces is unified in one cohesive structure. Just not in this case because it broke?

I am asking because I don't know, but have always been lead to believe welding is GREAT. In looking this up I find that Ford is moving away from welding to riveting, but was lead to believe it was for uniformity of construction, less chance of doing a bad rivet than a bad weld. Also, better in dissimilar material construction.

-Randy

[SteveH]

I certainly don't profess to know all there is to know about welding, but I have done some of it, and do know a little about it.

To my knowledge, you cannot weld dissimilar metals such as aluminum and steel together.

To get a strong weld, it must be hot enough to melt both pieces at the weld so the two pieces and the metal inserted into the weld all flow together. I think this is what J. Morgan is saying is wrong with the weld in the pictures.

If done right, a weld is stronger than the metal adjacent, and typically, again if done right, the weld will not fail, but the metal near the weld if stress too much.

If the weld is not hot enough, meaning the metals don't flow together, it is sort of like solder and will break off when stressed. To the untrained eye, it will look good, but won't hold.

I have a welder, but if anything structural that carries a heavy load needs welded, say like a hitch, I take it to a professional.