Front window leak fix?

[BarnacleBill]

So we are fixing water damage to the wall on the right side front of our le Cutter. We think some of the water intrusion came from the right side front window.

It looks like attempts have been made to stop water from getting in around the opening (sliding) window by applying sealer. I am attaching some pictures.

Has the gasket material shrunk? Was it designed to have spaces for drainage? Where in the world would you get new gasket??

[masseyfarm]

All the gaskets shrink in time. I filled the gaps with the same black caulk that the windshield shop uses. I believe (polyurethane sealant). Use painter tape to make cleanup easier. There are actual drains in the metal frame on the bottom of window.
Are you sure the leak is not dripping from above? Pull the front top side panel off (speaker panel on my Clipper) and see if there is any water there or if the insulation is wet.
The front cap seam to roof may be stressed above and to the rear of the side window.

I think we talked before about the Peterson marker lamps leaking on these units. LED's are sealed and direct replacement. ( search another post on the MH threads)http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...aks-69566.html

Water will travel and cause damage far from the leak sometimes.

Dave

[BarnacleBill]

So the gaskets, or glazing, has shrunk. I would like to replace them. Any ideas where to find the material. If we can’t find the replacement, the windshield calk will have to do. And I take it there should be no gaps in the gaskets, or glazing?

We have the top panel off and I see no evidence of leaking. Once we got the wall beneath the window opened up we could see leaking at the lower rear corner of the window. I have taped up the areas in the pictures from the first post to keep any rain out an to dry the area. It is raining to day an I don’t see any leaks.

Thanks for the LED recomendation. I am re-bedding the top front marker lights. I am in no rush to change the running lights to LEDs. I want to change the lights we use while dry camping to LED first.

Here are some shots of the leak repair area:

[masseyfarm]

Sounds like your leak is at the window if no moisture above.
I did clean off and recaulk my window on top when I did the Eternabond update to the front cap seam.
I did not have a leak at the side window, but filled in the gaps in gasket to eliminate any wind noise.
Is the luan gone on the side panel?? What are you going to use for backing? I used vinyl siding to reinforce the roof AC covers when I installed the 20W solar panels on there. The vinyl seemed to work great for that application with construction adhesive.
Dave

[BarnacleBill]

I am thinking about pulling and re-bedding that front window. Has anybody had any experience doing that job. It looks a little scarry...

Dave... when you did the Eternabond update to the front cap seam, what did you find and how did you do that? You had a post on this didn't you?

Yes the luan was shot. We wanted to use a product called Azdel superlite but we can't find a place that will sell it to us so we have decided to go with epoxy coated luan.

[masseyfarm]

Bill.
I have not removed a window so can't help you there. I have, as mentioned, recaulked all windows, (removed any exposed caulk and recaulk), and I keep a close watch on all possible leak threats. On the front side window, on mine there is a drip rail on top. I cleaned the old caulk off and redid it.
(use painters tape to make a clean even caulk line)

Front cap seam. - I removed most of the OEM and aftermarket caulk that was pilled on in lumps, leveled what was remaining so that the Eternabond tape would have a smooth surface to adhere to. If there was any SILICONE on there it has to be removed and super clean or the Eternabond will not stay.
I used Eternabond 4" tape and then sikoflex beaded the tape edges for extra insurance.
If, at some point, the Eternabond does not stick, it is easy to spot in a day or so. Just cut that piece out, clean and redo.
Bill: because your roof is a one piece assembly, it is possible for water to travel from one end to the other, depending on slope, and exit at the cap joints. Double check all you skylights, vents, etc.

[gloran]

Bill, I replaced all the rubber seals on my windows, they were all shrunk and short like yours. Check in the lower corner of window for make, mine were HEHR and you could still buy the moldings by the foot off a roll, just had to measure windows to get linear footage. Looks a lot nicer,but I think you will find when you pull off the old rubber not much chance of water getting into wall from inside the window behind moldings, at least not on my style windows. I have pulled a couple of my windows and resealed, not real difficult job. Cleaning off all the old caulk is kind of a pain, but when you get the interior window trim ring off you might find some evidence of leakage as well on the outside, gaps in the sealent once window is pulled.

[masseyfarm]

Bill:
When I did my windows seal gaps with the black caulk,( polyurethane sealant) it did a good job, and no one would not notice unless looking for it. As Gloran says, he thinks that there is low possibility of leaking there. Might be more productive to leave that till last on the list.
Also, as I said, the Clipper has a drip rail above the window which runs from WS corner to the Cap/Body seam. You might consider whether now is the time to install one, depending what you find if you pull the window.

Dave