OK so 6 months ago I took my beast in to seal the roof at Camping world, they sealed all around the vents, antenna etc.
They said not to coat the whole roof, that you don't seal a fiberglass roof.
Then last month I took the beast into a different shop,to fix the delamination, which that is a different nightmare, anyway they said I should seal the whole roof, saying " The fiber's are showing and the whole roof will suck up water ??
So anyone with thoughts on this ??
I don't know who to believe ???????
Maybe they both are in some way correct??
Any help would be great
Regards
Rob
We have a '98 Cutter. We have one leak that I can't figure out. It's somehwere near the front passenger window. Under the window gets wet in downpours. I don't see a leak at the window and thought it might come from above.
Did you get any answers on sealing and caulking? Or whether to coat the whole roof?
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New England Unit....in Fun, Fellowship and Adventure.
IMHO, the techs (if you can really call them that) at Camping World are no place to glean important information like roof condition and leak remedies. I personally would not let them change a light bulb, let alone tackle an important item like roof leaks!
You should seek a fiberglass expert for your roof.....probably from the marine industry, as very few MoHos have fiberglass roofing. If your fibers are beginning to show, it probably means that your gel coat or wearing or worn off and it should be re-gelcoated. This process is best left to a fiberglass expert, as incorrect prep work or application of the gel coat will create a huge ugly mess and will not fix your problem, only creating others!!!
Ditto what Lew said. The folks at your FG shop are right. If the roving is now becoming exposed the entire mat will absorb water and further the delamination process. That's a most undesirable outcome. And would probably result in you having to mortgage your home and sell your first-born on eBay to repair. Get thee to a good (marine) glass shop, pronto.
OK Now I need Help !!!!
Wow, I wish everyone would have responded earlier
So the second shop I took it to does fiberglass body work, and they never said anything about Gel Coating the roof, they said the whole roof needs coated.
I told this second shop to coat it, they did NOT re gel coat the roof
they used a roll on white roof type sealant.
I hope this did not create a new nightmare by doing this.
I have not picked it up yet, and will question them Monday about what they used, I guess I never thought of the roof having gel coat, as you probably have guessed I know nothing about this fiberglass stuff.
OK now that this is done Does anyone have any suggestions ?
Still take it to a marine shop ?
Sick my dog on them !!!!
Find a bridge and Jump ???????????
You might be OK, depending on what product they used. Some of the acrylic roll-on roof coatings are compatible with fiberglass. You should definitely find out which one they used and check with the manufacturer about the compatibility and bonding properties of their product with the fiberglass.
OK called the shop
They used Plastic Coat Elastomeric Paint two coats
They recommend Twice a year check and re coat every three to five years depending on use
OK called the shop
They used Plastic Coat Elastomeric Paint two coats
They recommend Twice a year check and re coat every three to five years depending on use
Any comments about this product ????
Unfortunately,I have never heard of it . Dicor is the only roof product that I use for RV roof re-coating.
Have also heard some good comments on Snow-Roof and Eterna-Bod products.
OK called the shop
They used Plastic Coat Elastomeric Paint two coats
They recommend Twice a year check and re coat every three to five years depending on use
Any comments about this product ????
That sounds like Kool-Seal, white elastometric roof coating. Lasts 3-5 years, retails for about $40/gallon, unless it has gone up a lot in the last couple years.
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Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
Well I will check on this product, how many years the shop has used it stuff like that.
Not much I can do now except keep an eye on it and if it falls short and leaks and destroys my repaired walls -- Ill find that bridge !!!
I spoke to Airstream regarding this same issue just recently. They said don't re-do the roof unless there's actually a hole in it. Just reseal skylights and vents. the rec was to use C-10 flow seal (Dycor Paints) and stay away from silicone.
I pulled one skylight entirely and reinstalled, using the C-10. As I suspected, I ended up cleaning up a lot of old silicone. I am not impressed with the condition of the flange around the bubble, nor the way it just screws on with no flashing of any kind. That was just a problem looking to happen. The screws were exposed, and when they work loose a little or rust, any moisture heads straight for that dry luan inside.
But I think this stuff will hold. (Used a whole tube for that one skylight. Ugly, but sealed and then some.) I will likely also lap the edges with a run of Eternabond just to make sure. (If it ever goes again, it's going for good anyway. The plastic used was a little too rigid and subject to UV damage. And, ten years have passed.)
I spoke to Airstream regarding this same issue just recently. They said don't re-do the roof unless there's actually a hole in it. Just reseal skylights and vents. the rec was to use C-10 flow seal (Dycor Paints) and stay away from silicone.
I pulled one skylight entirely and reinstalled, using the C-10. As I suspected, I ended up cleaning up a lot of old silicone. I am not impressed with the condition of the flange around the bubble, nor the way it just screws on with no flashing of any kind. That was just a problem looking to happen. The screws were exposed, and when they work loose a little or rust, any moisture heads straight for that dry luan inside.
But I think this stuff will hold. (Used a whole tube for that one skylight. Ugly, but sealed and then some.) I will likely also lap the edges with a run of Eternabond just to make sure. (If it ever goes again, it's going for good anyway. The plastic used was a little too rigid and subject to UV damage. And, ten years have passed.)
As I have said before and will say again.......
NEVER USE SILICONE FOR ANY PURPOSE IN AN RV
The stuff just never sticks when you want it too, and you can never add another layer to it, or completely remove it to use proper sealants. I'm sure that the stuff has it's uses.......Just NOT in an RV
I have enough elbow grease into this thing by now that you are preachin' to the choir, Brothah Lewster. Next up, the shower skylight (sigh).
I did have some window troubles as well. This was mainly from a hard-driving storm that slammed water from every possible direction. When I got up there and really looked at the windows, I found 2 things - The vertical rubber between the sliders...slides. It's shorter than the joint. And, in a couple of places the seals around the windows opening had slipped out of place just enough for a hard rain to hit those joints as well. I caulked those center pieces so that they can't slide up and down any more. The perimeter seals were still stretchy, so I was able to just pop them back into place for now. Eventually, I'm sure the windows will come out and new seals will go in. But I can't face that yet!
Can I whine about luan some more now? GOT to be the most idiotic sheathing material on the planet.
<snip> Can I whine about luan some more now? GOT to be the most idiotic sheathing material on the planet. <snip>
You won't get any argument from me, I hate that stuff. My Dad instilled on me the principles of the BSHC school - Brick Sh!t House Construction. Luan has no place in a BSH.
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Bob Fowler
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
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