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Old 05-03-2008, 09:50 AM   #15
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1996 34' Cutter Bus w/slide
Atlanta , Denial
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 10
As I was doing all these repairs, I was visiting with a friend who has a '77 trailer (whining all the way, of course!).

So. BSH, we are not! More like a wing and a prayer on wheels. No...not like a wing, either (wahhh!). More like...just pray. And caulk. That's it. Pray and caulk. Any ideas on alternative materials for that panel are welcome.

Opening another thread, as penance for the hijacking.

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Old 05-06-2008, 07:14 AM   #16
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2000 35' Land Yacht XL w/slide
Vermilion , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 155
So was I wrong to seal the whole roof ?
Seems if the roof is so bad it is just acting like a sponge I had to do something?
everything I seen on re gel coating seems like a lot of Money and Time ?
I feel like re roofing it with mirror polished stainless steel !!!!

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:12 PM   #17
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1993 33' Land Yacht
Midland , Michigan
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I was wondering how your roof situation ever turn out? Have you had any more problems? Also you briefly mentioned delamination, I was interrested if you had any of that work done, was it inside the coach or outside? I have a couple spots on the outside of my LY that really bug me, I'd like to have repaired. I have no idea where to take for repair, that would do a good job. Or what kind of money were talking about. If you ended up having any experience with this I'd like to hear about.
gloran - 1993 LY MH 33' - Banks System, Steer Safe, IPD front stabilizer, Super Steer - Bell Cranks, Motion Control, Coil
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Old 02-02-2009, 04:49 PM   #18
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2000 35' Land Yacht XL w/slide
Vermilion , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 155
Best bet is to talk to local RVers to find a good company,
As I stated above I took it to Camping World they said they do not coat the whole roof being fiberglass and all.
This place said they would not fix the de lamination un less I coated the whole roof, said they could see the fibers coming up, So honest guys or good sales person, either way it does not seem to leak anymore.

I Had the roof sealed two coats last year
took it back in January 2009 they recommended one coat and check it every six months

They also fixed the de lamination
Front drivers side was only external damage that i could see
Rear drivers was outside bubble and inside dry rot

They did I nice job
Front turned out good, rear still bubble about an inch out but no leaks (as I can tell)

Also bought a cover $300.00 vs Water leak (for us snow load people)

Let me know if you need anything else
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:01 PM   #19
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1995 30' Cutter Bus LE
Madison , South Dakota
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I've lived and worked in the marine industry for almost 30 'glass roof is also getting "itchy", as in the gelcoat is breaking down. My plan is to prep the roof, not sure how yet, and then to brush on Awlgrip. I have been using Dicor self-leveling goo after cleaning out/off silicon and old mystery goo and the leaks have stopped. We had leaks over both the front side windows and I Dicored the strip over the front cap last Sunday. It's been raining since friday and no leaks The 3M glue remover cleans up silicon, btw.
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Old 08-28-2010, 04:50 PM   #20
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1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
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I'm interjecting here, partially ignorant of how your roof is made - I have a '94 LY and it has a fiberglass roof that is like a marine deck. I've had this LY for about 5 years, and there was evidence of the roof having leaked before (just that I didn't know what the signs were when I bought the motor-home) and I have had leaks on and off until now.

Having now fixed it myself, after several visits to various RV repair shops, including our local AS dealer I have managed to learn the ins and outs of this roof.

The source of the leaks in my case were the seams. Previous owners had even put a bead of silicone on top of the lap sealant - a dead giveaway to anyone who knows anything about these roofs that there was an issue with water penetration.

What I finally did was to remove all the sealants that were used on the roof seams. At the same time I checked the rivits, and found some were missing and just covered over, and some were loose. I used a pop-riveter to replace all the missing and loose ones. The seams were cleaned with mineral spirits and then I put on lap sealant. In the course of removing the old sealant I found 3 areas where water had gotten in - two of them were still wet! After the lap sealant hardened (it always has some flexibility), I covered all the seams with Eternabond tape. I bought the tape in 37-foot lengths from the factory (it's cost was the same as the 50-foot rolls, but the 37-foot rolls came with a lifetime warranty against failure - read leaking).

It was a 3-day job to do all this, but the result has been no more leaks. We've had major rainstorms here including a solid week of thunderstorms with downpours that has resulting in flooding of basements - but the motorhome has been bone dry.

Another place where I found water was coming in was the clearance lights. The water would flow over the light, sneak in under the amber lens and drip down past the base of the bulb along the +12-volt wire that feeds the bulb. The tell-tale signs are that the bulb socket is rusty. I replaced the clearance lights with LED lights that have no place where water can flow in, as the base is totally sealed.

Hope this helps.
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:32 PM   #21
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2005 39' Skydeck
Alameda , California
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Old thread. I spoke to my mechanic who is talking about re-sealing the roof before fixing all the mold and rotting luan in the roof and walls. His goal is to either Dicor the seams like one does, or doing the whole thing using Line-X truck bed spray.

Since much of the roof is inaccessible he was thinking of taking the two fiberglass covers off the cab and the tail, and taking the fiberglass sides off the roof patio. But he came over to inspect it in the process of giving me an estimate and his co-worker suggested that maybe taking the the furniture off the roof would only double the shop hours and would make doing the roof easier.

In the process of the inspection he noticed that the roof was getting spiderweb cracks in the fiberglass sort of like this:

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He said that this cracking means that he wouldn't want to just Dicor the seams because the tiny cracks above mean that it could really leak anywhere. I read in this thread that Airstream said to just do the Dicor thing, but my mechanic says if you don't wax the roof you will get this sort of breakdown of the fiberglass over time.

Other places on the internet mention a specific compound for repairing gelcoat that is breaking down. I think it's a roll on after cleaning everything else off the fiberglass. Epoxy resin stuff, real fiberglass repair. My mechanic thinks he can reproduce the process the RV-Armor guys use if I wanted to go that way. The RV parked next to mine at the yard just had them do his roof (looks bad, nothing like the ads). But the roof is for walking so perhaps something not slippery like Line-X would be best, though, harder to clean...

Anyone have thoughts or experience with micro-cracks in their fiberglass roof?

2007 LTV Serenity beater 2005 Airstream SkyDeck
Also a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2000 Honda Hybrid Insight, new 2013 Volvo C70 hardtop convertible
And all electric: March 2018 Tesla Model ☰, a 2012 Mitsubishi i-Miev and two 2007 Vectrix VX1 motorcycles
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:24 AM   #22
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2008 34' Classic
1960 17' Pacer
London , Ontario
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Hi Randy

I have never seen it but I could see it happening down south where the sun is more intense.

On the fifth wheels we sell we find fiberglass roofs to be far more trouble prone than rubber roofs. On thing you could do is I cover the entire roof with a rubber roof.

Don't use any caulking on the seams use parabond rubber roof tape. It never leaks and lasts for 10 years or more.

Andrew T

Andrew Thomson
London, Ontario

"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
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