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Old 10-21-2015, 09:27 AM   #15
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2000 36' Land Yacht XC Diesel
Caldwell , Idaho
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 21
I agree with Shinypete I flushed the exterior of my 35xc last year , I was amazed at how much crap and how long it took to have clean water come off the radiator. The cooling fan combined with rear tires kicking up road dust mist ect... really fouls the cooling fins not allowing heat to dissipate.

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Old 01-04-2016, 10:58 AM   #16
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2000 36' Land Yacht XC Diesel
Gaffney , South Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 234

Well, over Christmas break me and my 11 year old daughter (she is a tremendous help!) tackled changing the two thermostats. After I described it, and how it works, she was quick to pick it out on the Driver top side of the Cat. 6 bolts removed and a rubber hose clamp later, voila, easy to change and replace.

I did demonstrate to her on the stove how the old ones should work. One opened/closed reliably around 180 deg F, but the other one was a bit sketchy. Also took 2 gallons of antifreeze to replace what splashed out.

Next weekend, we purple power the radiator from the fan side and then gently hose it from the outside in, making sure we put in a temporary shower curtain to protect the Cat from the water and debris.

What have we forgotten?

300HP Cat Diesel
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Old 07-30-2017, 07:35 AM   #17
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2005 39' Skydeck 390 SD
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 499
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Just learned at the Freightliner Camp of a modification which keeps the radiator cleaner.
Draft-tube extension.
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Extend blow out tube be one the radiator.
There are also different oil pans on the engines with different oil capacities which can lead to overfill and blow the oil right in your radiator. This was what happened to me.

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Old 08-04-2017, 09:55 PM   #18
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1999 35' Cutter Bus Diesel Pusher
Apache Junction , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 1
1999 Cutter 35' 3126 Cat 88,000 miles. Purchased 2 years ago from first owner in Long Beach, kept running hot in Arizona where we live 100-110 degrees, finally had radiator removed and cleaned but not rodded out, replaced both thermostats, all new hoses, replaced water pump belt and still runs hot on really hot days. Then read 18 years of repairs and found that it always had a heating problem on hills and hot weather. Owner said he just ignored the heat gauges. Buzzer and warning light comes on at 220 on the transmission heat gauge or needle to the right on the engine gauge. Don't tow anything and run 60 mph so will just live with it.

Originally Posted by JourneytoRet View Post
Took the RV to Gulf Shores this past weekend cause my kids wanted to ocean fish. Towed my car down and I remember thinking "this engine never seems to get hot". Spoke too soon, on the way back, and if you know I65, it's not a mountainous road by any means, the engine temp hit HOT and tripped the buzzer startling the daylights out of me. As I slowed down to pull to the side, the temp ran back to just below midpoint (letter N in the word NORMAL). Checked radiator fluid level and it was right in the sweet spot. As I drove on, temp would move from N to about L back and forth. Didn't seem related to speed and the needle was fairly active.

In my gas engine truck I would:
1. change radiator fluid
2. check lower hose on radiator to see if it was spongy/soft
3. change thermostat
4. replace water heater

But do not have any diesel engine experience; what do you guys say or think please?
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:13 AM   #19
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2000 36' Land Yacht XC Diesel
Gaffney , South Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 234
Coolant Change

After tackling the oil/filter change, which was ridiculously easy (and makes me wonder if I missed something), am moving to the coolant change today.

Armed with gallons of distilled water, ECL and a couple of bottles, I plan to:

1. Drain
2. Fill with tap water and 2 bottles of flush (will check to see if I need to bleed at thermostat housing on my Cat 3126)
3. Run engine til hot (how long should i run. Prestone flush says for heavy cleaning i should drive 3-6 hours over a few days?!)
4. Stop engine and let cool
5. Drain
6. Fill with distilled water
7. Run engine til hot
8. Stop engine and let cool
9. Drain
10. Fill with 50/50 ECL & distilled water
11. Run engine til hot
12. Make sure temp stays steady
13. Check for leaks
14. Check overflow level

What else am I missing?
300HP Cat Diesel
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:28 AM   #20
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2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere , South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,290
I've become very attached to using my IR temp gun to search and trouble shoot cooling systems.

If you have access you can point and shoot and watch temps at various points.

I was sold on it years ago when I watched a tech pinpoint a t stat issue on an old 7.3L company truck when I was on the road with a cold engine.

S/OS #001
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Carslile Actuator, Equal-i-zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook.
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