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Old 04-21-2011, 10:44 AM   #1
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Clipper, Heat Valve, Fresh Air Door

This is specific to the Clipper, but may apply to other models.

The dash heater/air control on the Clipper is a combination of vacuum and mechanical.
Both systems can give problems as the system ages.
If you can hear the vacuum pump cycling continuously, then you have a vacuum leak that needs to be addressed.
1: The vacuum manifold plug that attaches to the rear of the dash control panel may not be seated properly which results in poor or no response from the vacuum controls. The cause may be from being disturbed while routing other wires behind the dash, or from tension on the plug from other sources. When checking the vacuum plug, make sure each vacuum line is fully inserted into the plug. If it has become loose, apply a small amount of petroleum jelly so that it seats and seals within the plug.
2: The fresh air door is operated by a slide control on the dash connecting to a cable that runs through the firewall to the fresh air door at the front of the outer bulkhead. This cable tends to bind in the many turns it has to make, and lack of lubrication. If not maintained and lubricated, it will result in the plastic retainer on the back of the dash control breaking.
To avoid this lubricate the cable sheath ends and the pivot points of the linkage.
I have also installed a spring assist at the air door end to help pull the door when the cable control is pushed.

The HOT WATER CONTOL VALVE is operated by vacuum and if not used on a regular basis, may stick in the closed or open position. It is located on the outside front bulkhead and is easy to replace or clean if needed. Best to use it in the morning when heat might be needed and then shut the heat off.
When you shut down the heat with the dash control, the coolant bypasses the heater in the cockpit, but does not bypass the heater in the stepwell at the entrance door, or the heat exchanger at the hot water tank. This generally is not a problem, but if no heat is wanted then the manual in-line tap located under the engine bay will have to be closed.
NOTE: If you close this manual valve at the engine you will loose the preheat option on the Hot Water Tank for domestic hot water.
Dave
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:27 AM   #2
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Cipper, Heater Fan Control, High Speed

This is specific to the Clipper but may apply to other models.
The heater a/c fan on the Clipper is a 4 speed control operated through a resister module mounted on the outer front bulkhead drivers side.
This module may fail as it is somewhat exposed to weather. This is a standard Ford resistor that is available at any auto parts store. I also sourced one at Freightliner, although I had to modify the board slightly to fit the module housing. This module only operates the 3 low speeds.
The high speed is operated through a relay mounted also on the front outer bulkhead forward of the driver position. The relay itself is usually bullet proof, but the OEM fuse distribution box located just to the curbside of the relay, may deteriorate with exposure to the weather.
I have replaced this fuse distribution box with an up grade that has a cover and is more protected from the elements.
The high speed fan requires a solid ground to operate. The OEM ground at the heater blower motor, located in the dash behind the oak center dash, is questionable, and I have run an additional 10ga wire to a new ground on the firewall. This has solved my heater problems at this time.
Dave
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:05 AM   #3
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Heat/AC control

This is great Dave! I have been trying to figure out how to get the fresh air vent to work on our ’95 Cutter for a couple of years. We had a new heater core installed after ours started leaking and the heat and AC have been working great since then, but no fresh air.

I don’t know which button on the control panel is for just the vent “fresh air”. It looks like we have the same Heat/AC control on the dash.



There are five buttons (six if you count OFF). The last two on the right are for Heat and Defrost and the three on the left under the A/C section are labeled: MAX, NORM and BI-LEVEL. Under the NORM and BI-LEVEL buttons it says VENT-PUSH/PULL.

I may be thick, but I don’t get it… “VENT-PUSH/PULL”. Do you push/pull one or both or what? And… is one of these supposed to open the “fresh air door” you mentioned?

Maybe “the plastic retainer on the back of the dash control” is broken.

Is that picture of a spring the one you added to assist the air door?

I have a lot of questions don’t I?

Thanks in advance Dave.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:43 AM   #4
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Heater Controls, Fresh Air without a/c,

Bill:
The water control is vacuum operated.
The air control is manually operated with the slide switch.
This air door shuts closes off air flow over the heater core and allows cool air to flow by.
It is the slide control on the top that is attached to the cable that goes to the fresh air door.
The dash control that you have is available from the scrapyard on any Dodge Van from the 80's. They were available on ebay new. Some have the cable mounted on the side but they can be changed.
Yes, that is the spring I installed. If the cable is lubed the spring just takes the pressure off the slide switch so that it opens and closes all the way.
The vent (push/pull) button works as:
When the vent button is pushed in the fresh air is mixed with the a/c. (depending on the slide switch volume adjustment for fresh air)
To just get fresh air without the a/c running, push the button and then pull it out, and you will get fresh air without the a/c running.
This in an economy setting so that the a/c is not drawing HP while you just want fresh air.

Keep in mind my Clipper is a pusher and your set up may not be located exactly like the Clipper but I think the same OEM system was used on all the Class A.
The heater/a/c system is a bit like a woman. When you think you have it figured out, a new problem will appear out of nowhere.
One other mod. I made was installing a mesh screen on the air intake to the heater assembly to keep the critters out. I did not have a problem, but when I looked at it I thought there was potential for access.
Dave


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Originally Posted by BarnacleBill View Post
This is great Dave! I have been trying to figure out how to get the fresh air vent to work on our ’95 Cutter for a couple of years. We had a new heater core installed after ours started leaking and the heat and AC have been working great since then, but no fresh air.

I don’t know which button on the control panel is for just the vent “fresh air”. It looks like we have the same Heat/AC control on the dash.



There are five buttons (six if you count OFF). The last two on the right are for Heat and Defrost and the three on the left under the A/C section are labeled: MAX, NORM and BI-LEVEL. Under the NORM and BI-LEVEL buttons it says VENT-PUSH/PULL.

I may be thick, but I don’t get it… “VENT-PUSH/PULL”. Do you push/pull one or both or what? And… is one of these supposed to open the “fresh air door” you mentioned?

Maybe “the plastic retainer on the back of the dash control” is broken.

Is that picture of a spring the one you added to assist the air door?

I have a lot of questions don’t I?

Thanks in advance Dave.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:25 AM   #5
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1995 30' Cutter Bus LE
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Heat AC Control and One More Question

Thanks a lot! I can’t believe I could not figure that out!
Here is a picture that may help someone else. I hope I have this right…

If I don’t, let me know and I can fix it.



So here’s another question… What is this vent for? It is located behind the kick panel in front of the passenger seat



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Old 04-23-2011, 11:36 AM   #6
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Bill:
Yours set up is different than the Clipper. I believe that is the intake for the heater? but on mine it is located dead center below the front of the bulkhead and faces the ground rather than forward.
Does that vent door move with the slide control?
Your heater motor is on the front bulkhead and mine is buried in the dash behind the oak center cabinet.
Dave
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:28 AM   #7
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This vent is behind the carpeted kick panel which has a vent at the bottom that looks like an air return.



I think it is an intake as well. Then blue tube (may look like a wire) is a vacuum line, so I think it is the return for the AC when the AC is set on MAX.

I don’t think the doors move with the slide control. I think they are activated by the vacuum line. Next time I am in there I will see if I can activate the doors and answer this question.
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:53 PM   #8
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Clipper, Heater Blower Motor

Applies to the Clipper but may be a similar installation in other models.
On the road and the HAC blower motor quite on the Clipper.
I had previously installed a new ground and thought I had the problem solved. The motor on the Clipper is buried in the center dash and to access it, the center oak storage unit must be unscrewed and pulled back.
When I got to the motor, I could make it work by tapping it, but it would not restart after shutdown. Took the end cap off and the unit was at end of life and not worth a repair attempt.
NAPA (Canada) had a replacement #M4725 at below $75.00 with all taxes in.
Everything is wonderful as long as you have lots of money!
On the + side --- it was raining all day and I got to work inside.
Dave
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:28 AM   #9
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Clipper, Classic, Land Yacht, HAC push button control

This is the push button part of the control ONLY. It is available new on ebay.
Only if your push button control is leaking vacuum would it be necessary to replace this part of the control. Usually what breaks is the slide control on the housing that this fits into, or the electrical switch for speed or the internal switch for the a/c compressor.
Dave


FOUR SEASONS 35839 Switch, A/C & Heater Control | eBay

"Four Seasons, a division of Standard Motor Products, Inc., manufactures and distributes a comprehensive line of replacement mobile climate control products. We are the largest aftermarket mobile climate control parts supplier in the industry and the largest compressor remanufacturer in the world. In addition to the climate control division, Standard Motor Products offers ignition, emissions controls, wire and cable, electrical, and fuel delivery components"



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Old 05-16-2012, 10:08 AM   #10
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ACME, RV Air Condition Systems

This is good news for those of us with ACME air conditioning systems on our Airstream motorhomes. The source was found and posted by a fellow Air Forum member but I am posting this again to make it easy to find.

This Acme division was shut down a few years ago, but now has been restored by one of the former employees (I believe) and they offer all replacement parts for your system.

ACMEAIRPARTS.COM

http://soldbyrichard.com/images/acme_parts.pdf



Many parts in the system can be sourced from you local auto parts supplier, (eg fan motor) but specific needs for the ACME system are once again available from Richard.

Dave
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:47 PM   #11
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Thanks for the great information, it has been helpful troubleshooting the heater on
our Clipper.

Jim
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:57 PM   #12
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I had to do some more checks on my dash area and snapped a couple pictures of the dash control for the heater and air conditioning.

The vacuum hot water control appears to be operated via the vacuum lines located on top of the dash control, rather than the push buttons on front. You see two Grey lines coming off the 90* fitting. The slide control needs to be all the way closed to shut off the hot water to the heater.

The push buttons appear to only operate the different flaps and doors that control the direction of the air flow over the heater rad, or the AC evaporator coils. The actual vacuum solenoid that turns on the AC is also run off the push button vacuum control and is not electric from the dash control.

The only electric from the dash control is for the speed control of the air fan distribution.

Just out of the picture at the left rear is the plastic retainer that will break if your cable binds. Once it breaks, the cable will bind and not operate the fresh air door but should still operate the vacuum for the hot water valve if moved all the way to the left. Keep the cable ends sprayed with silicone spray.

Complicated system eh?

Dave
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:33 AM   #13
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If it ain't broke --

We have not really had hot weather here this year, but I like to have all systems on the CLIPPER running as they should.

At the end of the hot season last year, I noticed the Air Conditioning system was not running cold as it had been and should.

Pressure checks on the system were good, and I finally pinpointed the problem to the condenser fan not running. To prove this was the problem, I grounded the relay from the TRINARY SWITCH and the system worked great. I was going to just put in a manual switch on this ground line, but decided to order a new TRINARY SWITCH and do it right.

TRINARY SWITCH ordered from Richard( ACMEAIRPARTS.COM ) and should have been a 10 minute job to change it out.

However, the old switch grabbed and stripped the threads on the alluminium plumbing on removal. (It obviously had been installed dry with no anti-seize to protect the two dissimilar metals)

At this point, my only option was to go to a professional shop and have a new assembly made up/installed and the system recharged.

So, instead of living with a $5.00 manual switch that would have worked fine for the rest of my days, I have invested approx. $500.00+ to have my CLIPPER air returned to OEM factory specs.

The good news is that it does once more run cooollllddd.

The joys of RV ownership.

Dave




Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
This is good news for those of us with ACME air conditioning systems on our Airstream motorhomes. The source was found and posted by a fellow Air Forum member but I am posting this again to make it easy to find.

This Acme division was shut down a few years ago, but now has been restored by one of the former employees (I believe) and they offer all replacement parts for your system.

ACMEAIRPARTS.COM

http://soldbyrichard.com/images/acme_parts.pdf

Many parts in the system can be sourced from you local auto parts supplier, (eg fan motor) but specific needs for the ACME system are once again available from Richard.

Dave
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:53 PM   #14
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Lets look at this again to clarify what powers the circuit to the compressor.

In the pictures below, the vacuum box and control are shown in the same position you will find it in the dash of the Clipper.

On the back center of the vacuum box, are two terminals that complete the circuit to the relay that runs the compressor circuit.

There are six push buttons on the control. When #2, #3, #4, and #6 are pushed in, the compressor circuit is energized. (#6 is defrost)

To use just vent air, (and no compressor) push in the vent buttons (#3 or #4) and then pull the button out to disconnect the compressor circuit for energy saving.

The defrost circuit works similar. Push the button in and then pull it out to run on economy setting with no compressor. This button is not marked as such, but does work like the vent button to disconnect the compressor for economy.

A good picture of the complete control is also here. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...ml#post1169894

and for explanation purpose I have copied it here as I don't have a picture of that quality on file.

Just to confirm how this control works.

When the slide is all the way to off, it will contact the long white switch in the upper part of the photo. This controls the hot water valve with the vacuum lines running off at a right angle to the top right of the picture. The hot water valve will be located just before entering the AC/Heater.

The orange and black wire is just the lamp for the unit.

The 3 speed + idle, is the black switch to the right. High speed on my Clipper is run thru a relay, and the other speeds run thru a resistor. (a standard Ford resistor available at any auto parts store).

If your vacuum control is leaking, your vacuum pump will run continuously or cycle on and off. You will have some chance of repair of the vacuum box, using Sikoflex or other sealant, but long term, it is best to source a new one.

The vacuum connection on the back of the box originally has a retainer clip when installed. If anyone has had this off, chances are the clip is damaged. Be sure the plug is on all the way and not leaking, and there is no pressure on the vacuum lines to pull the connection off.
The lines, (each vacuum line), may pull out of the connector. Use a very little petroleum jelly and push the line all the way into the connector. Again make sure no tension is on the vacuum lines to pull them out.

On my Clipper, the compressor runs thru a relay and the condenser fan and safety high pressure shut off for the compressor, are run thru the Trinary Switch and grounded thru a relay. Not all systems may be set up the same????

Dave




Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
The push buttons appear to only operate the different flaps and doors that control the direction of the air flow over the heater rad, or the AC evaporator coils. The actual vacuum solenoid that turns on the AC is also run off the push button vacuum control and is not electric from the dash control.
The only electric from the dash control is for the speed control of the air fan distribution.
Dave
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