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Old 07-19-2012, 11:48 AM   #15
65th Anniversary CLIPPER
 
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1996 36' Clipper Bus
Tub City , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,271
Images: 55
We took the Clipper to Port Alberni on Monday, just to test the Air Conditioning systems.

32.1* C (90*F) was the high and I would say that temp. was constant most of the afternoon in full sun.

The dash air, on med. fan speed, had no problem keeping the cockpit cool with the isolation curtain closed. Just like it used to up until late last year.

After the Clipper was parked in full sun for the day, to run the refrigerator on solar, the inside temp. was 96* when we were ready to leave. I started the Cummins and dash air, and also the generator and both Penguin roof airs, and the temp dropped to 88* in the 10 minutes pretrip, and we turned off the roof airs after another approx. 10 min as we left town and climbed out of the valley.

The OEM system does a great job if you have things tuned up to factory specs.

Dave
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:28 PM   #16
65th Anniversary CLIPPER
 
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1996 36' Clipper Bus
Tub City , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,271
Images: 55
Have had a chance this week to do some more maintenance and mods on the Clipper and was in the area behind the center console. I took some more pictures and checked out the operation of the ACME heater/AC to make sure it was operating properly for our pending trip east.


In previous posts I have mentioned that the dash mounted slide operates the "fresh air door".


I am going to detail this further to avoid any misunderstanding of how this slide switch works.


The slide control operates an internal bypass door that directs air over, or bypasses the heater core. This door is located within the ACME 'box' and is not accessible without disassembly of the box.


Below the dash, through the bottom of the floor of the Clipper, is a door that is probably better referred to as the "fresh air door".


This door is vacuum operated and is open to outside fresh
air at all times except when the AC High button is depressed or when the unit is turned off with the off push button.


On my Clipper I had, a number of years ago, installed a metal mesh screen on this air intake to restrict access of small unwanted visitors. As indicated above, if you have had the heater on, or the air in the low/medium settings, and shut off the ignition, this door will be left open and would be an easy access route into the air box and possibly the ventilation ducts, direct to the living quarters of the RV.


One other problem I have now pinpointed a solution for today, is lack of expected heat we have experienced in the past when operating in sever cold conditions. I always thought the heater should be able to produce more heat than it did, but I think I now know why.


Even with the heater on max., the box is still being fed fresh outside air by this door located thru the floor on the Clipper.

This would never be a problem in most localities that the motorhome would normally operate. (most users head for warmer climates.) But I operate my Clipper north of the 49th for the most part, and have encountered many occasions where more or quicker heat would have been appreciated.

No combination of pushing buttons on the dash control will close this door while heat is demanded.

My solution to this then is to cut up a piece of vinyl material to slip over the opening and block probably 80% of the outside air from entering the box.

On the Clipper, there is a handy ledge on both sides of the intake box for the vinyl to snap into. It is easily removed and stored for hot weather as the door will close when you push the MAX button on the air conditioning control.

ACME has updated their site and all OEM parts are once again available direct from them.

Motorhome Dash AC and Heat systems

Dave
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"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #17
65th Anniversary CLIPPER
 
masseyfarm's Avatar

 
1996 36' Clipper Bus
Tub City , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,271
Images: 55
It's getting hot and my chassis air has been on the weak side recently. I just had (see previous posts) a new Trinary switch installed last year and was very pleased with the 'air' after that.

I did the normal electrical checks to make sure everything was operating, but I did not have much hot or cold in the exposed plumbing at the front of the CLIPPER.

I got out my low pressure gauge and found that the R134 pressure was on the low side. Added a 12oz can to bring the gauge up to the top of the blue and we have again got cold air in the cockpit.

These R134 refill kits are available at most automotive outlets and the Walmart nearest you. Simple instructions make this a product you should always have in the shop and you should carry the gauge with you on the road to be able to diagnose any problem that might crop up.

One other problem that happens, is the hot water valve, if faulty, will allow hot coolant to continue to heat the heater core. As explained earlier, there is a shut off in the engine bay on the CLIPPER but it also will inactivate the preheat exchanger on the hot water tank. Others have installed a 1/2" ball valve in a convenient area, but this will also disrupt the Hot Water Tank exchanger if it is installed downstream (engine side) of the bypass.

The Hot Water SHUTOFF is vacuum operated on the CLIPPER and is located upstream (heater side) of the bypass and as long as everything is working as it should, it does the do the job.

While searching for information, I came across this wire schematic for the ACME systems that may be of help pinpointing a problem.

Dave
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