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Old 04-24-2012, 04:55 PM   #15
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Clipper, Houck Drawer Rear Mount, Houck 251

Got my Houck plastic rear mounts for the drawer hardware today. Had three mounts that were broken on the rear of the slides. All fixed now and they work as they should.

The drawer hardware on the CLIPPER uses "Houck CT rear mount bracket STK 251 ADJUSTABLE screw in", and there is a left and right, so be sure to order what you need.

The "751" is somewhat similar but the metal track will not fit in the slide. So look closely at the pictures before ordering.
The brackets on the Clipper have a number stamped into the rear mount.
The new brackets do not appear to have a number on them.

http://www.houckind.com/PDF/Domestic...Bracketsbw.pdf



Ask for Rick if you have questions about the products.

Dave
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:34 PM   #16
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This was something I did a few years ago to hold more stuff that is used in the bathroom. Seems there never is enough storage in this area.

I just bent up a piece of gold flatbar, and mounted it above the sink to hold soap dispenser, his-n-hers water bottle, shampoo, etc.

Holds everything in place, and frees up the medicine cabinet for other less used items.


You can also just see the additional wet face cloth holder mounted under the cabinet.

Dave
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:39 PM   #17
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Nice!

No wonder the price of Gold is going up....
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:20 PM   #18
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As this is going to be a travel the Island year, and we will be accompanied by our youngest granddaughter at times, (who likes to push buttons) I thought it a priority to make some type of safety cover for the Propane Magic Chef stove controls'

The cover just had to eliminate her temptation to turn knob's when we aren't looking.

I cut up a light plastic box and it seems to do the job quit well. When not needed, it stores on the ledge under the kitchen sink, behind the drain.

Dave
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:41 PM   #19
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For some time we had a stick swivel chair in the Clipper, but found it took up too much room when the couch was used as a bed for guests. Although I had a seat belt set up for it, it was not really a seat that was useful while traveling and sat too low to the floor for forward window view. It was not even a good seat to use the laptop at the media desk. We also originally thought that we might use that chair outside on occasion, but that was never done so it was time to update.

I have gone back to a simple RV barrel chair with the integral seat belts. It had to be mounted high enough to give some vision out of the front window while underway, and had to clear the printer that was installed between it and the sidewall. Again, maximizing floor space was also a goal, so this required a special seat base.

I had fabricated an aluminium box, and had the seat pedestal cut down to 2" height. This allowed the seat to swivel, and the top of the box is hinged on the front so that the seat can be unlocked and tipped forward for better access to the area the printer is mounted if necessary.

The aluminium box that supports the seat base in now available for additional storage of shoes, etc, as it is right at the door entrance.

I added a foot rail at the front of the box which also acts as a retainer to keep any large item from going forward if a quick stop was to happen.

This now has proved to be a good useful change, and the next update will to eventually have the chair recovered in Ultra Leather to match the couch.

Dave
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:36 PM   #20
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Media Desk Lamp, Clipper

Originally, I had a 12V desk mount lamp here that worked well but again took up valuable desk space.

I updated this with a wall mount version converted to and powered from the 12V power plug at the rear of the passenger side window. (off the #10 wire run to the front solar panel mounted on the front Penquin AC that powers the #3 battery bank.)

I fabricated an aluminum backing plate that mounts to the bottom of the window frame, thus not putting any holes in the wall fabric on the Clipper, so that it can be removed later if wanted.

There are good OEM lamps above this desk mounted in the bottom of the overhead cabinet, but this new lamp can be moved to direct light to a specific area. It could even be used by a passenger seated in the barrel chair, at night, while underway if wanted.

This media desk has a PLEXI top that can be slide under the rear retainer, that doubles the desktop size of eating from the barrel chair and the front passenger Captains chair when it is reversed. The PLEXI top is stored between the end of the kitchen counter and the couch.

Dave
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:49 AM   #21
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Well, after looking at my own pictures, I concluded that there was more that could be done with that seat base.


I started with a magazine holder to augment the foot rest.

Next I thought that might be a good place to store the hand vacuum.

Then on the curbside I felt there was room, and easy access from inside or at the door, for a couple fire extinguishers.

This has all turned out very well, and I have not lost any toe space, and all updates are mostly out of sight. And no new holes drilled in the AIRSTREAM itself. It frees up the drawer space I had the vacuum in, and the cargo bay I had the fire extinguishers in, and recycles a piece of that pipe I had used for the hitch extender carrier as seen on another thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...ml#post1117724

Total cost was 6 rivets.

Dave
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Old 06-25-2012, 01:16 AM   #22
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I like the magazine slot to store shoes: there's more wall space than floor space.

I added a few things to my Land Yacht that should also work for the Clipper:

My wife needed more working space in the bathroom for hair drying, etc so we added a flip up shelf. I used a tray from Sur la Table because it has raised edges so stuff does not roll off.

As a relative newbie 'Streamer I got frustrated with the amount of "nature" being tracked in, and installed this Intervac in an available panel. It is plugged in so it can be portable, and the panel was a shelf from the Container Store that was the right size and a good color match. It is mounted with industrial Velcro. The 35' hose and a turbo brush end works great, but it pulls a lot of current, so when I'm plugged in at home with a 15 amp circuit I need to be careful.
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Old 06-25-2012, 01:57 AM   #23
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I would not be able to do that counter extension
in the bath of the Clipper as there is a 12V power plug, 120V duplex outlet, and a 4 place switch control for the exhaust fan/HWT on the endwall of the cabinet. My GW has never complained about that lack of counter top yet. I had offered to install a wall mount hair dryer, but she did not feel she wanted one.

Dave
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:20 PM   #24
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As I got older, I found that my eyes were a bit more sensitive to the bright sun.
On the Clipper, and other A Class, the high windshield gives a lot of area to try to shield that direct sunbeam when driving into the sun.

The drivers and passenger positions have the standard and pull down sun shades, but the area under the TV was a problem. To control this I installed another mid-mount visor and have been very happy with the results.

On the Clipper, in the cockpit on both sides, are installed oak cabinets, that have a flat top surface. On the drivers side, this flat surface has numerous switches and controls that tend to be accidentally turned on if not careful when setting something down in the area. (I could tell you a long story about how the neighbours cat turned on my gen set one night after I went to bed!)
On the passenger side, the cabinet is just right for the mouse pad for the laptop GPS control.
To help protect both areas, I cut up and bent some Plexiglas protectors. These slide on the cabinet and the window frame, and can be moved forward or back to access whats underneath.
Both are actually high enough to reach under if wanted.

On the Clipper the b/u monitor is mounted on the road side of the dash and is hard to see when the sun is bright on that side. Again, I bent up some plexi and made a sun shield that helps somewhat, depending on the sun angle. Not perfect, but a great improvement.

On all the Airstream Class A's with side mounted mirrors, there is a problem with outside area night lighting reflecting off the flat glass side window. This makes it difficult when you are trying to view your mirror to back up in the cg after dark. Normally, one would roll down your window to eliminate this reflection, but this is not possible in the Class A's as it is the bottom of the window that slides open.
To combat this reflection as best I could, I installed another visor on the side window at the w/s pillar that can be swung back to shield the window from reflective lighting. This did do the job and makes it much easier than backing up almost blind trying to look thru the window reflection.
For travel the visor is stored in the forward position and does not interfere with the forward vision.

Some of these inexpensive ideas may be of use on other units, and anytime you can increase your safety zone, it will make for a more pleasurable RV experience.

Dave
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:55 PM   #25
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On my other thread you can see my laptop stand for the drivers GPS. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...tml#post989448


Sometimes it is just easier to take a quick look at the map to refresh which route# you are heading for.

To keep things in place, I installed a spring loaded clip on the center cabinet to hold the map of the day. If wanted, a quick glance will refresh your memory on your route choice. This is especially important on County or State roads that may not be numbered the same as the RM map, or GPS.
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:57 PM   #26
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Laptop Cord Management

These laptop power cords are either too long or too short.

To try to control the snakes nest that these cords create, I tried the Velcro straps, and other elastic bands etc.

Probably the cheapest and easiest solution is this:

Take an empty large vitamin pill container and cut the neck off with the grinder. Leave some of the taper of the container neck on to grab onto the bundle of wiring.

To clean off the label, spray with WD40 and let it soak for 10 minutes. Wipe the label off and clean with soap and water. You can use it this way, or spray your choice of paint on it.

This one lays on top of the printer and is not attached so that it can be picked up to stuff the wire into. The one I have in the front of the Clipper, just sits within the plexi retainer that holds the 1000w inverter on the #3 battery bank. These work great whether round or rectangular, and you get to reuse something that was just going to the garbage pile. They are light and take a lot of abuse before splitting.

Dave
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:59 PM   #27
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Over the years I have thought of this every time I reach for the screen door handle from the step while entering.

Without looking one could/would put your fingers over the screen ledge rather than on the handle.

Last summer, after noticing wear on the screen at that point, I have protected this with a small piece of plexi cut and mounted behind the handle. This protects the screen and makes it easier to grab the door handle without looking.


The last couple years, I have not removed my soft Styrofoam panel from the skylight in the hallway. I had originally used it for winter weather, but it also works great in the summer sun. Diffuses the light and helps keep the heat out.
Dave
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Old 07-04-2012, 03:28 PM   #28
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Double Pain Windows

No, it is not titled in error.

The Clipper was not equipped with dual pane windows in 1996. That option became available on a wider scale in 1997.

With all the trouble owners had with the seals leaking/traveling up into the window view, the industry eventually abandoned the idea for most RV's.

However, there are some energy savings that can be made with a small investment in time and $$$$.

On the entrance door on the Clipper, there is a dual flange that can be utilized. I trimmed a sheet of Plexiglas and mounted it with the old rear window rubber from my pickup window upgrade. This worked for a couple years, but when I needed to clean the window this year, I re-cut a new piece and remounted it with a push-in style of rubber. (very hard to see it now unless you know its there )

On the bedroom, dinning room, and lounge window, the plexi can be trimmed to fit the upper solid glass area and will stay without a rubber retainer.

There will only be an average of 1/4" space, and it is not dead air, but by using a temp. gun, the temp. will be up to 4* less on the plexi reading than on the glass in full sun.

If you use a light tinted plexi, you will still have a great view from the window when the shade is up. Most users would have the shade down part way in the sun anyway. This in theory should also suppress transmission of sound at the window. The plexi can easily be removed for spring cleaning.

I have no picture as it would be hard to notice the plexi is installed.

Dave
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