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Old 07-15-2011, 05:01 PM   #15
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Delco Remy SI22 160A

So, this is what I carry for a spare now on the Clipper. Having experienced the pain of looking for parts and reliable service while on the road, I thought carrying the spare would be peace of mind.
These things never break at home?
Last trip, we ran from Ashland WI to Ottawa ON on solar and the genset. No one carries stock anymore and if you get parts shipped, many times it is the wrong unit.
This is a Delco Remy SI22 160A equipped with the 8 groove flanged pulley, so next time this has to be changed on the road, I can re-re before the GW has finished her coffee.
I store it in the basement compartment up front, in a sealed pack with the other little use items. (cable chains, jumper cables, etc.)
This RVing is so much fun.
Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
Applies to Clipper but other models may have similar equipment.
The Clipper OEM Freightliner Chassis was supplied with a Delco Remy HO 100A 21SI 3 wire alternator that was adaquate at the time of production, but marginal as more electronics and gadgets were added to the unit.
In 2008 I upgraded the original 21SI alternator to 130A and again in 2009 when it failed, (probably due to high temperatures in the engine bay, and aging house batteries), I had it modified to a 22SI 130A.
To help contain the engine bay temperatures on the heavy and hot mountain pulls, I installed two, two way vents, on the rear compartment doors to help airflow over the batteries and the transmission cooler, and on into the engine bay.
On the road last week, the alternator failed again. Post inspection revealed a burnt and broken winding. Weather was cool, so that was not the problem, and no excessive load was applied, as we were on the move. May have been the age of some of the rebuild components?
Decided to purchase a new HO 160A to start fresh. Had the previous one rebuilt to 160A specs and will carry it as a spare. (that should insure no more problems right?)
If you have problems in the Ottawa, Ontario area give Raymond @ K A R Auto Electric in Scotch Corners a call for great service.
Dave

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Old 07-15-2011, 08:26 PM   #16
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This could be a good thing.

Hi, you know, Murphy's Law, You will never need what you brought with you.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:38 PM   #17
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Sure Power Recall

Just a note that the 1315-200 is NOT on the recall list.

Garcia, Brenda <Brenda.Garcia@cooperindustries.com>
The 1315-200’s are not a part of the recall.
Brenda
From: David [mailto:masseyxxxxx@xxxx.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 10:26 AM
To: Recall
Subject: 1315-200
I have two units: sn 08006232 and 11005753. Both are 1315-200.
Need confirmation these are good and not on the recall?
Thanks
Dave


If you are using other models read this.

Sure Power Recall - Information About Recalls & Complaints for Sure Power | AutoMD

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/i...tach_id=12293?
Dave


Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
Robert:
Don't know what else I can do here. I have all bases covered. This was the situation before my upgrade to the 160A Delco Remy.

Here is what I did on my CLIPPER. (Cummins CT300)
I have a upgraded Delco SI 22 130A alternator, charging 2 X HD GP31 wet cell starting batteries, bank #1, (soon to be replaced with the same type), and have removed the ISOLATOR because of the voltage drop.
I have installed a SurePower 1315-200 SEPARATOR.(replaces the isolator) and allows charging both ways over 13.2V.
I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the chassis and the ISOALTOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge.
I have 4 X 6V T105's for the house bank #2.
I have one Trojan deep cycle wet cell 12V up front for the electronics. This has a charge line from the house battery circuit and another tie to the chassis circuit, which both have manual switches in the cockpit that I control as needed.
Xantrex Freedom Inverter Charger 2000 Watt 12 VDC 3 stage charger for the house #2 battery bank. (will charge all if switches and solenoid activated. AUX diesel 7000W slightly used.
All system are monitored in the cockpit with DIGITAL VOLT GAUGES.
SOLAR: 40W polycrystalline, charge controller, manual switch (to feed chassis or house depending on the need) Can be left on either, depending on solenoid setting between battery bank #1 or #2.
253W polycrystalline panels (4) run thru a MMPT controller to the #2 battery bank.
40W polycrystaline panel (no charge controller) to the #3 battery up front. Powers a 1000W invertor for the electronics.

My experience with this setup is:
While camping, if the sun is shinning next day, I can boomdock overnight and leave the house batteries on all the SOLAR and they will completely charge. (in this case I have the solenoid between 1&2 bank connected so that any solar over capacity goes to the chassis battery. If not using the #3 invertor I will tie this panel in also to the house.

When travelling during the sunny day after boomdocking, I will separate the #1, #2, #3 banks. This allows SOLAR to charge the #2 and #3 and the Delco to run the chassis load of DRL, AC, fans, etc.
In theory I should get better fuelmileage as the alternator is not running the # 2 or #3 if not necessary.
NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.


Dave
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:16 PM   #18
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Cole Hersee 24200 Solenoid

Applies to Clipper but may work on other models.

We are wintering at our home base and have some time to solve some ongoing problems. Like many other models, my Clipper chassis batteries tend to loose charge over a week or so. I have searched for the source of the draw at different times with no results. The Kwikee steps work off the house #2 battery bank, so they are not the problem.

As I have previously posted, I have set up the chassis battery bank so that it is charged off the shore power along with the other systems on the Clipper. All systems also have access to solar charge. However, at this time of year, the winter parking spot does not allow adequate solar exposure.

After doing a service on the 3 battery banks on the Clipper, I thought I should install a cutoff switch on the chassis batteries, like many others have done. This would allow us to leave the unit unattended for an indefinite period.

The problem with a manual cutoff, is that, if one has to move the motorhome on short notice, one has to get out of the motorhome to activate the power system. This would not be wanted if we were in an uncomfortable situation at a remote parking site.

My solution is then, to install a Cole Hersee Latching Solenoid #24200
into the ground circuit of the chassis battery system, and control it from the cockpit location by an intermittent switch, similar to what I had done to control the #1 and #2 charging systems detailed in earlier posts.

I had previously ran extra wiring the length of the unit, so that made this project easier. The solenoid is controlled from the house #2 bank, or in an emergency, can also be activated by the #3 battery bank.
I have just completed the installation tonight, so will update as time allows full testing. I still will have solar to the chassis batteries, and I should also still be able to charge from shore power if wanted, through the previous installation detailed earlier.

This modification should also act as a theft deterrent.

Dave
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:40 PM   #19
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After two days of testing, my disconnect for the chassis batteries seems to work as wanted and designed.
The 40W solar still charges when the system is in disconnect mode as that circuit is complete.
However, my previous installed crossover to the house batteries will not charge when activated because of the lack of ground on the chassis. This was what I had anticipated and is not a problem as once disconnected from the Airstream, the solar is more than enough to keep the chassis batteries charged.

The bit of grey matter you see at the bottom of the battery and on the tray is baking soda. I sprinkle this on the tray when we are parked for the off season and then hose it off in the spring when we are back on the road. I try to hose off the battery box on a regular basis when we are using the unit.
Dave








Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
My solution is then, to install a Cole Hersee Latching Solenoid #24200
into the ground circuit of the chassis battery system, and control it from the cockpit location by an intermittent switch, similar to what I had done to control the #1 and #2 charging systems detailed in earlier posts.

I had previously ran extra wiring the length of the unit, so that made this project easier. The solenoid is controlled from the house #2 bank, or in an emergency, can also be activated by the #3 battery bank.
I have just completed the installation tonight, so will update as time allows full testing. I still will have solar to the chassis batteries, and I should also still be able to charge from shore power if wanted, through the previous installation detailed earlier.
Dave
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:26 AM   #20
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Edit of Information

There is a concern I have with the inability to edit information after the short time frame of the original posting.
Below is an example of the detail I posted for general information and after some time I realize I made an error in the description of the setup.

On this post, ===
"I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the chassis and the ISOLATOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge"
is incorrect and should actually read === "
"I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the House batteries and the ISOLATOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge."
If it was as originally posted, the chassis batteries would be isolated from the alternator charge system which would not be desirable at any time.

Below is the edited detail of the Clipper as it is currently equipped .

CLIPPER. (Cummins CT300)
I have an upgraded Delco SI 22 160A alternator, charging 2 X SDS 31950 group 31 wet cell starting batteries, bank #1, and have removed the OEM ISOLATOR because of the voltage drop.
I have installed a SurePower 1315-200 SEPARATOR.(replaces the isolator) and allows charging both ways over 13.2V.
I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the House batteries and the ISOLATOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge.
I have also installed a cockpit controlled solenoid as a shut off on the chassis batteries to allow the unit to be left unattended for extended periods.

I have 4 X 6V T105's for the house bank #2.
I have one Trojan deep cycle wet cell 12V up front for the electronics. This has a charge line from the house battery circuit and another tie to the chassis circuit, which both have manual switches in the cockpit that I control as needed.
Xantrex Freedom Inverter Charger 2000 Watt 12 VDC 3 stage charger for the house #2 battery bank. (will charge all if switches and solenoid activated. AUX diesel 7000W slightly used.
All system are monitored in the cockpit with DIGITAL VOLT GAUGES.
SOLAR: 40W polycrystalline, charge controller, manual switch (to feed chassis or house depending on the need) Can be left on either, depending on solenoid setting between battery bank #1 or #2.
253W polycrystalline panels (4) run thru a MMPT controller to the #2 battery bank.
1 X 40W polycrystalline panels (no charge controller) to the #3 battery up front. Powers a 1000W Eliminator inverter for the electronics.
( I am presently installing another SurePower Separator and remote solenoid on the #3 battery bank to allow manual or automatic systems integration.)

My experience with this setup is:
While camping, if the sun is shinning next day, I can boondocks overnight and leave the house batteries on all the SOLAR and they will completely charge. (in this case I have the solenoid between 1&2 bank connected so that any solar over capacity goes to the chassis battery. If not using the #3 inverter I will tie this panel in also to the house.

When traveling during the sunny day after boom docking, I will separate the #1, #2, #3 banks. This allows SOLAR to charge the #2 and #3 and the Delco to run the chassis load of DRL, AC, fans, etc.
In theory I should get better fuel mileage as the alternator is not running the # 2 or #3 if not necessary.
NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.


Dave
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:53 PM   #21
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Tonight I have completed the update on the #3 battery bank to set it for full automatic integration with the other battery/solar systems on the Clipper. The #3 bank now includes a SurePower 1315-200 Separator, and a Cole Hersee 24200BX solenoid that when activated allows charge over 12.2V to travel either way between battery bank #3 and the Chassis System #1, and if wanted also the House #2 system. These systems can also be separated, by activating momentary switches located on the extreme left side of forward dash. This will allow the Clipper to be left unattended on Solar Power for extended periods and charge all batteries when there is adaquate solar and prevent any single system from discharge below 12.2V if there is a failure to one of the three systems.



Below is the edited detail of the Clipper as it is currently equipped .

CLIPPER. (Cummins CT300)
I have an upgraded Delco SI 22 160A alternator, charging 2 X SDS 31950 group 31 wet cell starting batteries, bank #1, and have removed the OEM ISOLATOR because of the voltage drop.
I have installed a SurePower 1315-200 SEPARATOR.(replaces the isolator) and allows charging both ways over 13.2V.
I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the House batteries and the ISOLATOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge.
I have also installed a cockpit controlled solenoid as a shut off on the chassis batteries to allow the unit to be left unattended for extended periods.

I have 4 X 6V T105's for the house bank #2.
I have one Trojan deep cycle wet cell 12V up front for the electronics. This has a charge line from the house battery circuit and another tie to the chassis circuit, which both have manual switches in the cockpit that I control as needed.
Xantrex Freedom Inverter Charger 2000 Watt 12 VDC 3 stage charger for the house #2 battery bank. (will charge all if switches and solenoid activated. AUX diesel 7000W slightly used.
All system are monitored in the cockpit with DIGITAL VOLT GAUGES.
SOLAR: 40W polycrystalline, charge controller, manual switch (to feed chassis or house depending on the need) Can be left on either, depending on solenoid setting between battery bank #1 or #2.
253W polycrystalline panels (4) run thru a MMPT controller to the #2 battery bank.
1 X 40W polycrystalline panels (no charge controller) to the #3 battery up front. Powers a 1000W Eliminator inverter for the electronics.
I have now installed another SurePower Separator and remote solenoid on the #3 battery bank to allow manual or automatic systems integration. These are controlled manually from the drivers positon with two push momentary switches located on the extreme left side of forward dash.

My experience with this setup is:
While camping, if the sun is shinning next day, I can boondocks overnight and leave the house batteries on all the SOLAR and they will completely charge. (in this case I have the solenoid between 1&2 bank connected so that any solar over capacity goes to the chassis battery. If not using the #3 inverter I will tie this panel in also to the house.

When traveling during the sunny day after boom docking, I will separate the #1, #2, #3 banks. This allows SOLAR to charge the #2 and #3 and the Delco to run the chassis load of DRL, AC, fans, etc.
In theory I should get better fuel mileage as the alternator is not running the # 2 or #3 if not necessary.
NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.


Dave
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #22
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I have a picture of the Clipper dash location of the momentary push-button switches for the solenoid control of the 3 battery banks. The buttons needed to be out of the way so not to be accidentally/inadvertently activated when not wanted. They are protected electrically when parked with a security sequence required, so that my grand-daughter can't change them when I have that power nap. The buttons are high quality, flush and require full depression (approx. 1/4") to activate so accidental contact should never be a problem.
With the digital volt gauges on the dash, it is easy to monitor/control what the requirements are for each of the 3 battery banks.
Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
The #3 bank now includes a SurePower 1315-200 Separator, and a Cole Hersee 24200BX solenoid that when activated allows charge over 13.2V to travel either way between battery bank #3 and the Chassis System #1, and if wanted also the House #2 system. These systems can also be separated, by activating momentary switches located on the extreme left side of forward dash. This will allow the Clipper to be left unattended on Solar Power for extended periods and charge all batteries when there is adequate solar and prevent any single system from discharge below 12.7V if there is a failure to one of the three systems.

Dave
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:58 PM   #23
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Solar Switch for Two Battery Banks

This works on my Clipper, but could be done on any unit that has been modified to separate the battery charging systems.

On my Clipper I have installed Cole Hersee BX 24200 remote operated solenoids to separate/isolate all 3 battery banks depending on want and needs.

In the #1 Chassis 40W solar circuit I have installed a simple 3 position switch that allows solar charge to the chassis when parked, and when the engine is running, the ability to switch the solar to the house circuit.

Because of the high output of the alternator, no solar controller will stay in connection mode, but will read the high alternator voltage at the battery and shut down your solar panel. (why drive all day in the sun and not get free solar energy?)

With my SurePower 1315-200 Separators installed on all 3 battery banks, and controlled as needed with the solenoids, I can direct all my solar (386W) to the house battery circuit while traveling.

This switch is located on the side of the media cabinet in the BR and the solar is wired, complete with ground, to the chassis batteries. (this allows solar charge when the chassis batteries are disconnected, via the solenoid, for short of long term storage.)

If I position the switch (for traveling) to charge the House #2 circuit, the circuit ties into the OEM power plug installed with #12 wire to the house fuse box located at the foot of the bed. The ground return is still thru the chassis battery common ground, which is active even with the #1 and #2 systems disconnected.

If maintenance is required on the battery systems, I can position the switch to the center position to disconnect this solar panel for either circuit.

The new chassis powered power plug, on #10 wire was installed to allow easy monitoring with my portable digital voltage meter, and also to have power for my hand held spot light that is stored at the emergency exit window.

This link also has information on the other solar systems on the Clipper.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...ply-77097.html

Dave
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:08 AM   #24
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Hi, you have quite the set-up with your solar panels. I may be late, but I noticed that you mounted some panels on top of your A/C shroud. My A/C shroud, same as your's, was brittle too. I ordered a new shroud from "Icon Direct" and it has a lifetime warranty. They claim that you will never have to buy another one. The plastic is thinner and of a more durable material. And the price was the same as the factory shroud.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:03 PM   #25
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Delco Remy 22SI, 3 Wire, Molex Plug

Well today I have accomplished something good!

Over the lifetime of my ownership of the Clipper I have always had more drain on the batteries, when parked, than what I would consider normal.

I would spend free time trying to find this draw and eventually installed switches and disconnects to combat the problem.

Understand, the engine bay is not easily accessible on a daily basis when on the road, or I may have discovered this a lot earlier in my ownership term.

With all the solar, and other measures I have taken, I was able to live with the situation. However, I had extra time this week and traced every wire and active circuit on the Clipper. Here is what I found.

The 2 wire molex plug that supplies the SI22, 3 wire alternator with the ignition excite and the battery voltage signal was actually wired wrong.

When I activated the solenoid that connects the chassis circuit, and felt
the alternator after a couple hours, the alternator was warm to the touch.
I checked with the test light the plug wires for power, and after removing the alternator, I was able to duplicate the result on the bench.
Research of the Delco wiring diagrams led me to suspect a wire mixup. I pulled back the spiral protectant rap and exposed the joint butt connectors. As you can see in the picture, I believe these are an original Freighliner factory connections.
The Molex plug #10 red wire should be the battery voltage signal, and the #14 white wire should be the ignition excite wire.
These were reversed at the in line connections, with the #10 wire connected to the #14 wire and visa versa.

My chassis was one of the first produced after Freightler took over Oshkosh and I suspect the individual doing this job was not trained for what he was doing.

I have now tested the system and have no, or very very little battery draw now and I will leave the batteries connected for the next week or so to monitor them.

Another problem solved.

Dave
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:35 PM   #26
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With all the up wattage did you increase the belts to drive the alternator? Original would have only required one v belt while the 130 recommends two. Don't know how serpentine belts compare.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:23 PM   #27
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Cummins, Delco Remy Pulley, #3918275

Dave: On the Cummins CT300 the serpentine belt runs the alternator with an 8 groove pulley and spring loaded tensioner.


This is a specific pulley on the Delco Remy for this Cummins application. (Cummins PN 3918275) which has a little more length to the butting face than a standard pulley. A standard 8 groove pulley will not line up with the water pump pulley and will cause the belt to chirp as it tries to seat in the pulley. I found this out the hard way, by purchasing a pulley off the shelf for my rebuild spare. When I put it on to test it for comparison against the new Delco, I thought I had a bird cage in the back.

All this trouble/cost listed in the posts above because some one did not have the brains to join two similar gauge wires together or take time to look at the wiring schematic before doing the job.

It all works as it should now.

Dave


Quote:
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Don't know how serpentine belts compare.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:18 PM   #28
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Audible Flasher, Signal Flasher, Flasher

When we first got the Clipper we were overjoyed (to say the least) with the lack of sound or noise, while traveling at turnpike speeds. Even quieter than most autos or pickups, as the Clipper is a diesel pusher.

That said, you then tend to turn on the music, CB, Weather radio, the GPS, etc., and I still try to listen to MGW.


But the problem was, a couple times, I found myself driving down the road, in the sun, with my 4way flashers on. This did not give me that feel-good feeling that the Clipper experience should.


There are many retail options to overcome the quiet flashers, with some options costing upwards to $60.00.


On the Clipper to solve this problem I went to Radio Shack and sourced a couple low voltage buzzers that retail for under $3.00. I pulled the turn signal and 4 way flashers and soldered the buzzers onto the flasher prongs.


I will never again be caught with a flasher going accidentally.
Another thing one should remember to do when you have some down time, is to search the location of your flashers. Once they quit working, they are difficult to find because you can't hear them. And of course, you should always carry a spare, as they usually fail right after you have hooked up your trailer and added that additional load to the circuit.




This item applies specifically to the Clipper which came with the UNIDEN CP1050 mobile phone option installed. The power unit of the Uniden was mounted in the center console with Velcro and a half tube of contact cement. I found this out only after removing the center console and then the Sony system power amplifier to try to access the mounting screws. This is not necessary, as you just need a pry bar to release the Uniden unit. I have left the antenna and lead, but removed the other wiring to clean the compartment up.


Dave
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