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Old 05-02-2016, 12:49 PM   #127
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2004 39' Skydeck
Green Cove Springs , Florida
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We had some work done at Nomad a few years ago-based on the TV video of the red one they worked on. That one was living outside in Montreal year round... lots of water issues. We liked the idea they had worked on one already.
Nomad did our Kitchen primarily to install a dishwasher in place of the over, new counter top, stainless sink etc. They also made us a table for the roof deck- good design effort and aluminum support construction etc, but the table top itself was only exterior plywood covered on some thin laminate. problem is it warped and swelled...Had to replace it with a corian top already.
They are nice guys and are really into the Airstream trailers and do some cool things with them. However, I don't think they realize how much abuse these rigs take driving down the road...A parked trailer used as a bar, hair salon or other such use is one thing. But driving a 31,000 lb Skydeck around the country is another. And they are not inexpensive...although I guess that's true anywhere that does custom work.
Based on their experience of extensive remodeling of the red one, I was comfortable going there. However, I would be much more definitive in getting more details before beginning another project- with them or anyone else.
It would sure be nice if the factory had some kind of restoration/ customization shop on premises.....

Alan
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:48 PM   #128
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2005 39' Skydeck 390 SD
Livingston , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Blue Rv View Post
We had some work done at Nomad a few years ago-based on the TV video of the red one they worked on. That one was living outside in Montreal year round... lots of water issues. We liked the idea they had worked on one already.
Nomad did our Kitchen primarily to install a dishwasher in place of the over, new counter top, stainless sink etc. They also made us a table for the roof deck- good design effort and aluminum support construction etc, but the table top itself was only exterior plywood covered on some thin laminate. problem is it warped and swelled...Had to replace it with a corian top already.
They are nice guys and are really into the Airstream trailers and do some cool things with them. However, I don't think they realize how much abuse these rigs take driving down the road...A parked trailer used as a bar, hair salon or other such use is one thing. But driving a 31,000 lb Skydeck around the country is another. And they are not inexpensive...although I guess that's true anywhere that does custom work.
Based on their experience of extensive remodeling of the red one, I was comfortable going there. However, I would be much more definitive in getting more details before beginning another project- with them or anyone else.
It would sure be nice if the factory had some kind of restoration/ customization shop on premises.....

Alan

That is my problem right now. Even so I think the technical skill are at MasterTechRV but the customer service and reliability special in timing issues is horrible. I need my roof done found some stress cracks on the rear bench have some water leaks. I have a quote from MasterTechRV but will not use them because I still try to get a time confirmation and a quote for other interior work which was due now for 2 weeks and I ask for it several times. I guess they have more customer then they can serve in the moment and don't need by measly $20k+ job.
SO if anybody know a good reliable shop let me know.
Thanks
Peter
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:38 AM   #129
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2005 39' Skydeck
Alameda , California
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RV work can be a bear. I had my small camper wrecked by the local garbage truck and took it to the ONLY RV repair place in the East Bay, totally covered by the waste management's insurance, but it took them from December to July to do the repair of a door and the rear bumper, and paint. They did a nice job but killed the batteries twice and for months at a stretch. I use cheap Costco batts, but still.

I do feel that RV shops have a season. If you take them an RV in January they will be bored looking for work and get to it during February. If you take it to them in July they will get to it in January.

My RV had bad AC when I got it in June, it was finally fixed by October, so I have not used it yet, probably will be 9 months from when it was fixed that I will use it. When he quoted me for the roof in late February I thought it would be the same. Finished when no rain was coming. So I am holding off until we get closer to next winter so it doesn't sit ready for rain for 9 months w/o being tested.

I see the fiberglass crown off in the Nomad Sky Deck last year but the furniture still on. But the furniture pierces the roof, I wonder if it makes sense to take the furniture off if you are re-doing the roof. My guy thought it was only 6 extra hours to R&R the furniture. If you are doing roof armor you could just paint it up the legs of the furniture assuming no roof damage pre-existing. If you discover roof damage AFTER putting the armor on how do you get to the damage?? I have taken the front center fluorescent light down and discovered the luan under the fiberglass is BLACK and cracking. But how do I get to it?

-Randy
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:09 AM   #130
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2005 39' Skydeck 390 SD
Livingston , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by israndy View Post
RV work can be a bear. I had my small camper wrecked by the local garbage truck and took it to the ONLY RV repair place in the East Bay, totally covered by the waste management's insurance, but it took them from December to July to do the repair of a door and the rear bumper, and paint. They did a nice job but killed the batteries twice and for months at a stretch. I use cheap Costco batts, but still.

I do feel that RV shops have a season. If you take them an RV in January they will be bored looking for work and get to it during February. If you take it to them in July they will get to it in January.

My RV had bad AC when I got it in June, it was finally fixed by October, so I have not used it yet, probably will be 9 months from when it was fixed that I will use it. When he quoted me for the roof in late February I thought it would be the same. Finished when no rain was coming. So I am holding off until we get closer to next winter so it doesn't sit ready for rain for 9 months w/o being tested.

I see the fiberglass crown off in the Nomad Sky Deck last year but the furniture still on. But the furniture pierces the roof, I wonder if it makes sense to take the furniture off if you are re-doing the roof. My guy thought it was only 6 extra hours to R&R the furniture. If you are doing roof armor you could just paint it up the legs of the furniture assuming no roof damage pre-existing. If you discover roof damage AFTER putting the armor on how do you get to the damage?? I have taken the front center fluorescent light down and discovered the luan under the fiberglass is BLACK and cracking. But how do I get to it?

-Randy
Yes it is a pain. I got last night on Master Tech RV Facebook side a left a comment it only to seconds to get a response and got a voice message this morning. I think I give them another chance.
You right I was thinking the same leave the furniture framing on and coat over it. As I started the work I found a stress crack on the rear bench support which should be welded and some how strengthen.
I will see how it works out.
Peter
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:37 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by PSchw View Post
Thanks for the tip. Found this on there FB
https://www.facebook.com/nomadairstr...07393155990012
I have doubts about MasterTechRV for my roof rebuild...
Peter
Whoa! Did that video say the Airstream rebuild was $280,000??

Hopefully you don't spend that kind of money on your roof. Please take photos as there are 25 other Skydecks that can learn from what you do to the roof. I think I get MOST of it, but I would love to see what the covered part of the staircase looks like on the outside, how the furniture attaches to the frame, and what's under the hump behind the sun-bed.

-Randy
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:27 AM   #132
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Folks I've had an interest, perhaps just a passing interest, in the Skydeck. Really can't find a post or review that hits on the subject, but are you guys happy with the quality of the Skydeck? I mean, was it done right, or where there shortcuts to keep the price down as much as possible? I've had a Krystal with undermounted Moen sinks, $350 facets, and Ultra leather walls and ceilings and I've had campers with plastic sinks and cheap vinyl walls. From the pics, I gather the Skydeck lands somewhere in between, with the money (costs) being focus on the deck. Thanks.

Also, and I'm guessing not, but have any of you camped with one in Winter? By Winter, I mean in the snow, sub-zero? My guess is the floor is little more than exposed plywood underneath the coach and tanks are exposed (not heated). The owners manual PDF was of little help. We use our stuff for everything from Baja to skiing at Mt. Hood, so that's why I'm asking. I can only find info that the walls and ceiling are insulated with fiberglass (boo), but no mention of the floor (so I assume it's not insulated). Not the end of the world if it isn't as Winter mods are usually possible, but it's a major concern.....for obvious reasons (yea, that's me):

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Old 08-12-2016, 09:38 PM   #133
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Alameda , California
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OK, this seems like a big post...

I'll answer as they occur to me

Yes, the tanks are heated. If you are living in the RV it has one 35,000 BTU furnace and one 16,000 BTU for the bedroom. The basement in front of the rear axel and the tanks are all connected and heated. Another thing that makes RVs 4 season is the insulation and the windows. These are actual dual pane glass windows. The sides and roof have fiberglass over luan over steel and foam with luan on the inside and then fabric wall coverings. The floor is the same with 1/2" OSB over the steel and 1/2" plywood over that. Then plastic and then thin insulation, finally another 1/2" of linoleum tiles. There is also a thin metal plate on the underside of the floor. The basement also has steel all around including the doors. The basement is huge with the tanks on the inside of the frame rails, otherwise inaccessible area for storage. 105 gallons of fresh and 87 gallons of propane, plus 150 gallons of diesel that runs the generator or the engine. NICE.

Quality of build? Well, it's no Airstream, but it seems to be a normal Thor. The Freightliner chassis is what everyone uses, so that's not an issue. I have seen people doing write-ups here about the build quality, like making bolts to remove the window only accessible by removing the whole dash. or just cutting stuff off assuming no one will even need to repair that part of the RV.

I have not experienced that. The rivets that have popped probably should have just been replaced when it happened. Unfortunately they stayed off and leaked, now there is interior damage. Have to fix it by this fall. But the only "cheap" part of my interior is the quarter-round baseboards that where hatched in. But I have a nail gun, I can fix that. The woodwork is very strong and pretty. The furniture on the roof is piercing the fiberglass, so it can leak, there is LOTS of caulk, but it needs to be maintained. Mine was not. I know of two SkyDecks that have had those Roof Armor systems put on for this reason, not cheap, may still have issues and the furniture is still there.

I have had leaks from my roof that I have yet to identify, but I had buckets out last winter. I had stains when I bought the RV from screws holding the crown molding on. They went into the corner piece that holds the wall and the roof together. Maybe I am leaking into that piece too. Gonna cover the roof with Dicor fiberglass coating and lap seal the roof and see if I am still leaking next winter.

I have lost the seal on ALL the dual pane windows and they are really fogged at night. Gonna try to clean that out with drilling the seals and using chemicals, but if I have to have them taken apart I am looking at best $250 each. This is very common on the Airstreams, perhaps it is common on others, but until you own a dual pane RV you don't know it.

I have had to shovel snow off the roof, it kind of captures the snow, it cannot blow off. Just don't let it rain as the weight may crush the roof. I realize I need to have some kind of covers for the roof if I go places where it snows. Looking at tying some honeycomb polycarbonate sheets together, fold them up at the back when using the patio, but for driving and storing leave them flat up there.

-Randy
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And all electric: a 2012 Mitsubishi i-Miev and two 2007 Vectrix VX1 motorcycles, waiting in line for the Model ☰
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:47 PM   #134
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Thanks Randy. Lots of info. Thank you.

For what it's worth, you might consider 3m 5200 for your roof fixes. Super strong and works below the waterline on boats, so works great on RVs. I've used it a lot and I'm a fan. Works great.

Thanks again for the info!!
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:45 PM   #135
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2005 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
Castro Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by israndy View Post
OK, this seems like a big post...

I'll answer as they occur to me

Yes, the tanks are heated. If you are living in the RV it has one 35,000 BTU furnace and one 16,000 BTU for the bedroom. The basement in front of the rear axel and the tanks are all connected and heated. Another thing that makes RVs 4 season is the insulation and the windows. These are actual dual pane glass windows. The sides and roof have fiberglass over luan over steel and foam with luan on the inside and then fabric wall coverings. The floor is the same with 1/2" OSB over the steel and 1/2" plywood over that. Then plastic and then thin insulation, finally another 1/2" of linoleum tiles. There is also a thin metal plate on the underside of the floor. The basement also has steel all around including the doors. The basement is huge with the tanks on the inside of the frame rails, otherwise inaccessible area for storage. 105 gallons of fresh and 87 gallons of propane, plus 150 gallons of diesel that runs the generator or the engine. NICE.

Quality of build? Well, it's no Airstream, but it seems to be a normal Thor. The Freightliner chassis is what everyone uses, so that's not an issue. I have seen people doing write-ups here about the build quality, like making bolts to remove the window only accessible by removing the whole dash. or just cutting stuff off assuming no one will even need to repair that part of the RV.

I have not experienced that. The rivets that have popped probably should have just been replaced when it happened. Unfortunately they stayed off and leaked, now there is interior damage. Have to fix it by this fall. But the only "cheap" part of my interior is the quarter-round baseboards that where hatched in. But I have a nail gun, I can fix that. The woodwork is very strong and pretty. The furniture on the roof is piercing the fiberglass, so it can leak, there is LOTS of caulk, but it needs to be maintained. Mine was not. I know of two SkyDecks that have had those Roof Armor systems put on for this reason, not cheap, may still have issues and the furniture is still there.

I have had leaks from my roof that I have yet to identify, but I had buckets out last winter. I had stains when I bought the RV from screws holding the crown molding on. They went into the corner piece that holds the wall and the roof together. Maybe I am leaking into that piece too. Gonna cover the roof with Dicor fiberglass coating and lap seal the roof and see if I am still leaking next winter.

I have lost the seal on ALL the dual pane windows and they are really fogged at night. Gonna try to clean that out with drilling the seals and using chemicals, but if I have to have them taken apart I am looking at best $250 each. This is very common on the Airstreams, perhaps it is common on others, but until you own a dual pane RV you don't know it.

I have had to shovel snow off the roof, it kind of captures the snow, it cannot blow off. Just don't let it rain as the weight may crush the roof. I realize I need to have some kind of covers for the roof if I go places where it snows. Looking at tying some honeycomb polycarbonate sheets together, fold them up at the back when using the patio, but for driving and storing leave them flat up there.

-Randy
Randy;
My windows are fogged in between the panes as well. My repair guy in San Leandro has a name and phone number of a window guy who pulls out the windows, cleans the fogged coating out from inside and reinstalls. I'll try and get to him in the next couple of weeks and pass on the contact info in a PM.
Cliff
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:16 AM   #136
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2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
West Linn , Oregon
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Originally Posted by Deminimis View Post
Folks I've had an interest, perhaps just a passing interest, in the Skydeck. Really can't find a post or review that hits on the subject, but are you guys happy with the quality of the Skydeck? I mean, was it done right, or where there shortcuts to keep the price down as much as possible? I've had a Krystal with undermounted Moen sinks, $350 facets, and Ultra leather walls and ceilings and I've had campers with plastic sinks and cheap vinyl walls. From the pics, I gather the Skydeck lands somewhere in between, with the money (costs) being focus on the deck. Thanks.

Also, and I'm guessing not, but have any of you camped with one in Winter? By Winter, I mean in the snow, sub-zero? My guess is the floor is little more than exposed plywood underneath the coach and tanks are exposed (not heated). The owners manual PDF was of little help. We use our stuff for everything from Baja to skiing at Mt. Hood, so that's why I'm asking. I can only find info that the walls and ceiling are insulated with fiberglass (boo), but no mention of the floor (so I assume it's not insulated). Not the end of the world if it isn't as Winter mods are usually possible, but it's a major concern.....for obvious reasons (yea, that's me):

I don't have a skydeck but have a 396XL, the MH on which they were based. I have camped in 19 degree weather. It did fine, tanks are heated by the furnace and at those temperatures you will be using up some propane, but we were comfortable. As far as being no Airstream...well I have owned three of those and I would say that my MH is the equal of its peers in age from Airstream, and better built than much of the current output. I am very happy. I wish it had more engine, but other than that I have no complaints.
All double pane windows of that era had problems with losing thier seals. I have had all but two rebuilt, they will be rebuilt in a couole of weeks. The best guy out here that I know of who rebuilds these is Dave Root (Dave Root RV Glass) and he does travel to California once or twice a year. Rebuilding the windows is not cheap, but what is when it comes to Class A Diesel Pushers?
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Old 08-15-2016, 12:16 PM   #137
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Thanks for the info! Yea, Dave is just two hours south of us.

So one final question: Mileage. If anyone says "If you have to ask, you can't afford it," I will find you. Anyway, just curious what kind of mileage number (or numbers) you folks are pulling down (330hp Cat). Can't be any worse than our current setup. Thanks again.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:34 PM   #138
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I drove mine 15k miles last year and average around 7 mpg. I pull a Honda Element with about 4.5k pounds and usually cruise around 62 to 65 mph what supposed to be the sweet spot.
Peter
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:12 PM   #139
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I have pretty similar experience. I tow a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited @ around 4500lbs. We have driven 19,000 miles in the last 20 months and our milage varies between 6.5 (if we have any significant climbs) and 7. I do sometimes drive over 65mph but rarely reach 70mph.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:44 PM   #140
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Ice maker working again

[from 4/18 6 months ago]
Quote:
Originally Posted by israndy View Post
Well, just because the ice maker has a schematic and the owner's manual describes operation doesn't mean I have been able to fix my ice maker... I have given up on figuring this out by myself and dropped it off at the local appliance shop to have it fixed. At least all the parts are still available as they still sell this model 10 years later.

I know it's gonna cost me at least $50 to have them try to fix it... But at least it feels like I am making progress.

-Randy
OK, got the ice maker back just now. Got to see it in operation at the repair place in Sonora, CA. They had emptied it twice overnight and just two hours before I got there and it was half full already. It did require the ice maker part and I was NOT equipped to repair that. Had to be glued in, crazy way to manufacture things. It was $450 to repair, I could have gotten a cheap one for less than that, but it is nice to have the one designed for the space working.

Now I am going to put the ice maker back in, but gonna put some mold killing primer on the OSB floor under the stairs as this will be difficult to access once I re-install. Just a little bit, possibly from the leak around the roof access.

If you have dry caulk around your access I suggest you seal it like me and Pete, as it will leak and drip into the ceiling and then down the walls and rot your floor. I have some photos of taking the stairs apart this week I will share later.

-Randy
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