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Old 06-18-2013, 01:56 PM   #15
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Sorry to hear of your troubles. Glad everyone is OK and no damage resulted. Hopefully the repairs wont be too serious. More then likely it's a small fluid leak or a bad master cylinder that allowed the fluid level to drop and let air in. Keep us posted.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:22 PM   #16
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One of my biggest fears!

Curious to know what type of brake system it has. Air, air/hydraulic, hydraulic...

Generally there are 2 systems to prevent total failure.

Let us know what failed.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:40 PM   #17
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2001 31' Land Yacht
The Colony , Texas
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I wish I knew what failed - haven't heard anything from the shop yet. From what I understand - the brakes are completely mechanical/hydraulic (just like an automobile) - with the exception of the dreaded "auto-park" system. This coach has no emergency brake ... the auto-park is either engaged or freewheeling - no way to slowly activate it. I seriously thought about pulling that yellow handle ... just didn't want to lock it up at 60 mph on the freeway.

It was one of those moments I don't care to repeat - I just can't believe there aren't redundant systems - brakes are really important!

I'll be sure and post what's found ...
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brayzen View Post
2 hours into the return trip - running along I35 between Austin and Dallas, TX - the brakes completely fail - brake pedal to the floor and nothing ... serious panic attack - traffic was very "stop and go" and I happened to be on a slight incline ... coasted slowly off the freeway at the next exit
Waiting on a cause and an estimate ... I think my wife wants to call an exorcist!!
Did my own exorcising when brakes failed, 1200 miles into trip. We had already finished mountains, we get to the flat section of Kentucky, city traffic, turn into cg, all fine, pull away from entrance sign in and tried to slow for speed bumps, no brakes, move it to low gear, slowly creeped to assigned spot, used IR thermometer found brake calipers on drivers rear was over 300 degrees, let it cool placed call to good sam's, they sent a mechanic but I had already solved the problem by bleeding, so all he did was do it again, bleeding rr, lr and fr, fl. pronounced the system fixed. Good Sam called back to make sure we were ok, didn't even send a statement so I don't know what their cost was.
Finished trip 500 miles without problem. I replaced all calipers, brake pads, flushed system(including wiping out the reservoir scum.

I have had vehicles of all varieties and never saw so much bad fluid and scum in brakes used daily. So only answer I can say is the gremlins come in when you don't use unit, new brake fluids suck up moisture from air and grow gremlins. Overheating due to sticking caliper boiled water to steam, causing brake failure. Sticking caliper due to design of open slide rusting due to lack of use. Time for another trip to chase away any new gremlins. Next year I will flush brakes as part of routine maintenance. and what I have read on this forum, it is time to replace the rubber flexible lines connecting the wheels to the steel tubing.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:01 PM   #19
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2000 31' Land Yacht
Fort Erie , Ontario
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Welcome to the forum and sorry to hear your brake problems. If you do not have the W/H manual go to their site, register and download for free.

If your VIN begins with a 5 then it is a W/H. Chev sold the chassis in Nov 1999 and continued to build for "some time" for WH. If digit 7 of VIN is a 1 or a 2 then it is a P32 Chassis. If digit 6 is a 5, definitely a P32 and if a 3 then a 1 ton nominal P32.

Can't help with your loss of brakes, DAVEFL has excellent points, steam is not a good conductor of hydraulic pressure and this could have been your failure mode. DOT3 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and needs to be changed/flushed every 2 years, (MYHOP). Also the flex lines tend to swell internally and cause the callipers to lock in the on position.

Your "autopark" stuff is in engine compartment drivers side and the Rotten Green Switch may be brown. The A/P system is a J71 type.

The master cylinder actually has 2 reservoirs, one for front and the other for rear callipers. Located drivers side wheel well. you will need a flashlight and turn wheels fully to the right to see reservoir.

I use speedbleeders to flush the old stuff out by myself, available at the same name.com

Regards,

Steve
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:06 AM   #20
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Mark, what an experience for the first trip! Glad no personal or physical damage.

I hadn't thought about not having an emergency brake. In certain situations, that could be BAD.

The next trip WILL be bettter!!

Sam
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:37 PM   #21
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DaveFL & Steve - I think you're both on the right track ... I have experienced these issues with older motorcycles - still haven't heard from the shop - but when I do I will mention what I've learned here.

Sam - I'm sure the longer I have it - the safer it will become - I have to remember its 12 years old and it only has 15K on it ...

Great information from folks I've never met ... just goes to show you ...
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:09 AM   #22
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Spoke to the shop that has my yacht last evening ... You guys were right!! He had to flush and re-fill the system just to get pressure back - he's searching for leaks now and will put together a list of parts he'd like to replace (and a cost). He did state that the remaining fluid wasn't really fluid any longer - he wanted to know how long this yacht had been setting ...

I'm certain that I will replace everything from the master cylinder through the calipers ... I'll be able to trust the brakes when complete.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:23 AM   #23
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While he has the wheels off see if you can look at the brake fluid reservoir, mine was full of crud, normal bleeding would never have cleaned out. I emptied it and wiped it out before the extensive flushing of system. My master cylinder was the only thing working, so you will have a big list. if rotors are on it ask to see them in place, visually it is an item you can inspect, by running fingernail over surface from center to outside you can determine condition. 14k miles they should be flat! If brake pads are broken, easy to see and replace, calipers good or bad usually is a judgement call unless they are leaking.
Rubber flexible brake line from wheel to metal collapses with age, one of the causes of brakes not releasing, causing overheat, hard to detect if it isn't collapsed at time of testing.
Trust is why I liked the Good Sam mechanic pronounce that it was good to go after our problem was "fixed", 1000 miles later right front stuck and overheated enough to melt the front wheel sensor on the passenger side, on checking drivers side it had melted some time in the past for the PO.
You have the right idea, replace as much as possible while under the care and install of one person, who will be the one to test drive it first
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