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Old 06-15-2016, 09:42 PM   #1
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1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
Wanted - pics of driver side wheel well

If anybody has a 96 LY30 with parking brake, I would sincerely appreciate a pic of the driver side wheel well showing cable routing.


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Old 06-16-2016, 08:14 AM   #2
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1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
Here's the area I am looking for. Trying to determine the correct routing for the parking brake cable. You can kind of see the wear/rubbing marks on the panel from the previous routing: but that route also had the cable kinked - making it useless...

Would also be handy to know what the sheetmetal is supposed to look like. I have no idea how this thing got so banged up and distorted: the metal is actually wrinkled near the Master Cylinder inspection hole.


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Old 06-17-2016, 11:17 PM   #3
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1998 36' Land Yacht Widebody
Ft. Lauderdale , Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
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Mine is a diesel with air brakes so can not help with the brake cable. As far as your photos go, that looks like prior damage either from an accident or possible tire blow out in the past.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:44 AM   #4
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1996 30' Land Yacht
Los Gatos , California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 12
Pics of Drivers Side Wheel Well

Ours is 95 LY 30 ft, gas 454ci.
Has Autoparking brake with foot pedal.
Hope these pics help.
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:44 PM   #5
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1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
Thanks Cruzaire.

Oddly enough, I do not think the new cable I have is long enough to route like that. I had a friend helping me (who did this) , and he swears this (the way mine is now) is the only way the cable would work. I guess that as long as nothing rubs whilst turning or bouncing down the road it should be ok; I sure like the way yours is tucked tight to the body however.

Do you use the autopark, or just the parking brake? When we picked up our LY, the parking brake cable was broken and the AP was leaking. It would not hold the LY on our driveway, which is maybe a 20% grade. I took it apart, and the real tranny seal was blown, and the brake pads had apparently been engaged while is motion. They were glazed and burnt from the heat. The drum took quite a bit of turning to make round again. I ended up putting on a reinforced cast iron drum ($35) instead of the steel ($600).

After all the failures I read about online and the carnage they can create, I picked up a new cable (actually, it took three times trying to find the correct one) and disconnected the AP. So now I use the tranny pawl (that I added), and the manual parking brake. Tested both on a 25% hill the other day; held fine.

Thanks again.
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