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Old 07-19-2016, 10:17 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member

1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 150
Replacing the Oven Hood Vent

Was getting tired of working on the roof, so figured I'd do an easy task, and replace the beat looking vent with a nice stainless steel beauty...

What could possibly go wrong?

Well, how about this?

For starters, there is no screw on the center right; yes, there was one on the outside; it was held in place with butyl sealant. Which is why this area always stayed wetter a bit longer than the rest of the vent after it rained. To make matters worse, the knucklehead who installed this must have not had real good concept of centering. There is about 1/8" of overlap between the edge of the plastic vent and the styrofoam insulation in the wall. That said, there was a layer of aluminum tape as an extra waterproofing measure. And it appeared to mostly work; there were only a couple small voids in it, where they tried bending the metal tape around a corner...

Had been listening to a real racket coming from the stove area on trips to/from the hiway - we live about 3 miles from pavement down a washboard dirt road. If you look close in the above pic, you will NOT see any screws holding the vent duct to the stove fan collar. Nada, nuttin, zip. It is literally floating between the vent flange and the hood flange. Which means it rattles like 2 pebbles in a tin can...

At least I can solve this problem with some handy drill bits I use about once per year...

Here's the test fit with the stainless vent; still too close to the insulation in the wall. I'm having a 1/8" thick stainless frame made that will act as a flange against the wall to increase the area to apply some Sikaflex. I'll post a couple pics when I get it back from the polisher.

As added insurance, I took some 1.5" aluminum L angle and made a seal for all the raw insulation. It will be sealed in place once I get the outer wall flange back:

Here's a pic from the inside. Note that you have to pull the hood, which is screwed into the bottom of the cabinet that the microwave is within. Then there is a flat panel going from the hood to the MoHome wall; which means the hardware in this pic is covered. Only you and the rain (that now can't enter) will know:

I ended up using quite few screws, because the wall veneer is really thin. The screws basically hold the aluminum L angle in place until the Sikaflex dries.

So. If you see water taking longer to dry on an exterior fitting, get on it. A few months of this would have had water being soaked up by the insulation and breaking down the exterior skin glue. All because some knucklehead at AS could not cut a straight line...


Oh., For some reason while posting this I have gotten challenged 3 times by the site top click the box "I am not a robot". The first ime I lost all my text. Anybody know what is going on? This is a PITA.

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Old 07-26-2016, 04:20 PM   #2
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1998 36' Land Yacht Widebody
Great Falls , Montana
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 142
Images: 14
Excellent info and photos you shared. Last year I replaced the convection oven and was able to connect to the existing duct. Because mine is in the corner and slightly turned, it had a flex duct that was easy to reconnect to the new oven. On the exterior I had a problem with the plaster flapper door. Just recently found a replacement door and plan to install it after I finish this cross country trip.
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