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Old 11-25-2015, 07:02 PM   #1
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Albuquerque , New Mexico
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Parking brake adjustment?

Hello all, I spent some time with the perspective MH. The parking brake goes to the floor, but does not stop the MH from moving. I crawled under and saw a housing on the drive shaft. I could still rotate the drive shaft.
Is there a thread about the relationship between the autopark and the foot parking brake pedal?
All the manual said was the light comes on and goes off when you take it out of park.
Dosen't the auto park supposed to stop the drive shaft?
Seems the drive shaft drum is toast. What is the cost of such a repair?
1997 LY30, P30, 454.
Thanks for any help.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:16 PM   #2
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1984 31' Airstream310
Honokaa , Hawaii
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I had the shoes inside the drum adjusted to make the parking brake on our '84 work. The procedure is outlined in the attached excerpt from the P30 service manual, with some discussion of the newer parking brake systems that may or may not be what you are looking at in the '97.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf brakes.pdf (935.8 KB, 38 views)
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:04 PM   #3
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I have found a diagram of the system. The two levers work in series. The auto park lever is first, then the manual brake lever pushes on the auto park lever. I think I need to open the drum and check the pads. Then adjust the foot brake pedal. We will see the auto brake system later.
I can't believe that this system exists. I am so use to putting it in park and the trany locks the wheels. I did that on our test drive and it kept rolling! I put on the parking brake and it went to the floor. Dangerous! Need to hold the brake and let the wife set wheel chocks.
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Old 11-27-2015, 11:44 AM   #4
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1992 36' Land Yacht
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These machines are too large and heavy for the standard pawl in the transmission.

When it's put in park, does the park light come on?
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:54 PM   #5
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Park light

Yes, the park light comes on when when the key is turned on, goes off when it is taken out of park. Neither auto ro foot pedal locks the drive shaft.
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:34 AM   #6
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1992 36' Land Yacht
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Then you need to adjust the parking brake attached to the rear of the transmission. You may need pad replacement as well. Wont know until you've pulled the brake drum and inspected it. The good news is it's not too hard to find replacement parts and relatively easy to do. Take pics of the brake assembly before you disassemble everything and you'll have references on how to put everything back together.
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Old 11-29-2015, 02:43 PM   #7
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On mine there are two standard plugged opening like the one you would find on an auto, the top one is where you can adjust the brake shoe, looking in the hole you might be able to see the cog wheel that adjusts. Shortest route to know it's condition is to take it all apart, but a faster way if you know the brake has a good pad and if free of oil, you can disconnect drive shaft, with brake off you should be able to move the drum, tighten until it has some friction then back it off, reconnect the brake cable, drive shaft, lower to ground. My test was to put on a incline and see if it holds If you decide to take the drum off, make sure you replace the rear seal of the transmission, disturbing a 20 yr old working seal it will leak on putting it back together then you have to take it apart again, price of seal not worth the redo.

Disclaimer, do this at your risk:
You can do it with everything connected, jacking one rear wheel off ground, if you can turn rear wheel in neutral with brake off, adj brake pad until it locks wheel when brake is engaged, lower jack then do the incline test. Doing it this way you won't know the condition of brake shoes but you also won't disturb a whole lot of stuff.
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Old 12-31-2015, 01:50 PM   #8
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I am borrowing the idea of a motor to pull the brake cable. Factory spring sets the pre-load and compensates for brake shoe ware.
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Old 12-31-2015, 02:39 PM   #9
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http://www.oemys-performance.com/med...eplacement.pdf
Here is the original idea.
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